Best Restaurant Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.
This could be one of those posts peppered with overused travel expressions like ‘off the beaten path’, ‘the local experience’, ‘authentic’, and my least favorite, ‘wanderlust’ (see Are You a Naive Traveler?). This experience won’t make me use softer words in future posts, but it is the type of experience that reminds me why I travel and why winging it is still the way to do it (see How to Book Trinidad’s Carnival Last Second for Free*).
When I arrived in Tirana, I had a list of restaurant recommendations from my Albanian friend (see Tirana, The Best City for Food). At the top of the list was Mullixhiu. I hopped in a taxi and told the driver to take me there. He said that the restaurant is usually busy, and I should call to make a reservation. The nice driver called and, as he expected, they were full. As it was my last night in Tirana, I told him to go anyway and I would figure it out.
Arrival
As I was coming in, I saw people being turned away for not having a reservation. This made me want to go in even more. I confidently approached the hostess and said I had a reservation for one. Inexplicably she could not find my name. Instead of turning me away, she gave me a glass of wine and told me to wait.
While waiting, I took a few photos.
Mullixhiu makes its own pasta and that process is on full display. I failed to take a photo of that traditional process.
Seating
Just as I was about to give up hope, I was finally seated.
This evening, there was a set menu for dinner. It was now clear why reservations are necessary and why people were in no hurry to go.
Wine
A bottle of vino is not included in the set menu, but since I was anticipating great food, I ordered one.
The Food
Much like my inability to describe fine wine (see We’re Off to Wine Country Worldwide), I cannot articulate how delicious food is (see Where to Eat: Cusco Edition). That’s a shame because calling the salad, a salad “a salad” is like calling Michaelangelos’ Pietà a carved piece of marble. (I also can’t speak profusely about art.) Hopefully, the pictures tell the story.
Saffron and Grapes
I vividly recall the greatest combination in this pasta dish: saffron and grapes. It is something that I continue to crave.
The Main Dish
Look and enjoy. This is why a full bottle of wine was necessary.
After Dinner Drink & Dessert
I don’t know what the drink was exactly, but it was a nice way to round out the meal.
Why This Experience Was Special
Yes the ambiance was nice and yes the food was great. But, that’s not what made this experience memorable. After I had the aperitif, I learned that the young gentlemen was not a waiter. He was the owner, Bledar. He invited me to share a bottle of wine while he closed the restaurant. We discussed politics, food, and travel. I learned about Albania, its history, and Bledar’s journey to open a restaurant that serves traditional Albanian cuisine. It was an “authentic” Bourdain experience that I will not forget.
Overall
Mullixhiu was voted one of the ten best restaurants in Europe (see the article featuring a bio of the chef in the German publication Der Spiegel). Make sure you have a reservation before you go. You may not be as lucky as I was.
Best Restaurant Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.
I feel fatter just looking at those pics. Yum.
I hope to be travel fat again one day.
Nice review. The lying about having a reservation was just wrong, though.
Moral police
Nope, just been in the hospitality industry for too many decades. I’ve seen that one tried more times than I can count. It inevitably makes the poor sap at the host stand unhappy, since they’re torn between thinking the person is a scammer or they did their job wrong.They should and frequently can make exceptions, but I don’t imaging you enjoy direct interference with your job either.
First, I’m being honest about getting in. So that’s ironic in itself. Second, that’s not how it went down. It’s not an oh did I make a mistake like it’s Ruth Chris. It’s a tiny restaurant. They weren’t scrambling to accommodate me. It was have this glass of wine and wait, maybe something will open up, maybe it won’t. I think you’re getting too caught up in peripheral details. Point of the story wasn’t how to sneak into it a restaurant.
As a complete non sequitur, do you plan on flying AA any time this year? I got a few lounge passes last year with otherwise expiring business points. I gave them to a friend to use, but Covid-19 happened, so she gave them back. Do you want them? They’re good all year and I won’t use them since I have the Executive Advantage card. If not, no harm.
I doubt I’m getting on a plane until April 2021. That’s my guess
A year in one place? Who are you and what have you done with TPOL? I just didn’t want them to go to waste.
I’m coronavirus and I’ve ruined the world.