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Saturday, November 23, 2024
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Yu Garden Shanghai: Only Go for the Dumplings

Yu Garden Shanghai is part of the TPOL in Shanghai Trip Report.


There I was, in the middle of Chinatown, only this wasn’t San Francisco, New York, or Seattle. This was Chinatown, Shanghai.

a building with a roof
If you haven’t been to Shanghai, this is what you might think it looks like.

Yu Garden is a bad version of the Medina in Marrakech (see Medina, Marrakech: Lost in the Labyrinth). It is a compound built to look like what tourists expect China to look like. The ruse would be difficult to spot but for the presence of every conceivable American franchise.

a building with many pagodas on the top
Look authentic until you see…

a street with a sign and buildings

Avoid the finger-licking good temptation, other Western junk foods, and the few English speakers who hound you to buy bags or watches. There’s a higher purpose for your journey to Yu Garden.

a group of people outside of a building
Starbucks from the Ming Dynasty

a group of people walking on a sidewalka group of people walking in a streetKFC and Haagen Daz do serve one important purpose. They are landmarks next to a dumpling joint in Shanghai. While Yang’s and random street spots (see Street Food Shanghai: Morning, Day, Night, Morning Again) are my favorites for xiao long bao, this place is perfect for steamed dumplings, especially if you’re staying at the adjacent Renaissance Yu Garden.a group of people standing in a line outside a building

Day or night, you will find a line. I can’t assume that the people in line are Shanghai locals just because they are Chinese, but I can say the line is not full of Western tourists. Working under the assumption that Chinese people know dumplings better than I do, the long line is an endorsement of the quality of the place.

a group of people in a kitchen
Freshness being made.

Regardless of the patrons, the dumplings speak for themselves. They come out fresh every few minutes. Be sure to secure your place at the serving window as the hunger of the crowd can cause them to overlook their line minding manners.

a man in a uniform holding a paper in a basket
Stay close to the pick-up counter.

a group of people in a room

Having thrown some delicate elbows, I went to the vinegar dispenser and found a place to enjoy my morning/afternoon/evening snack. The one problem with extra fresh dumplings is that they are too hot to eat. It’s torture waiting for them to cool down. Once they do, they are consumed in seconds, which is sort of sad given the amount of time and effort it takes for them to be made.a silver and glass container with a lid a bowl of dumplings on a plate

The remedy for this temporary sadness is to brave the process again and go for round two.

TPOL’s TIP: Unless you crave that fish taste, I would avoid the crab meat dumpling. If you do get it, poke a hole in it with a spoon and suck out the soup first.a plate of food with chopsticks on it

Overall

Yu Garden is a tourist trap. But for the dumplings, I would advise that you stay away.

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2 COMMENTS

  1. They’re past prime. The quality has gone down over the years. In fact, their other branches are better. I prefer their location in Flushing, Queens (NYC). The queues may snake out the door, but it’s far better than their dumpling mill in the tourist trap.

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