Intro: Birthday Bash Trip Report
Navigating Iraqi Checkpoints: The Road to Samarra
- Baghdad, Iraq Day 1: Over Stimulation
- Baghdad, Iraq Day 2: Welcome to the Jungle
- Baghdad, Iraq Day 3: Calm and Culture
- Baghdad, Iraq: Family Reunion
Do you want to test your patience? Do you want to try your luck at being cheeky with armed men? Then hop in your car and take a ride up from Baghdad to Mosul. I would not recommend the self-drive tour, though having a guide may be more invasive than insightful (see Driver Vs. Guide). Following the defeat of ISIS, Iraq has become increasingly safe. To keep peace in Baghdad, there are armed Humvees everywhere. To keep order in the country, there are checkpoints throughout Iraq. These checkpoints are administered by the Iraqi army, Iraqi police, local militias, and all groups in between. On the way to Samarra, we experienced checkpoint after checkpoint. Some went smoothly, some had friction. All this took place over a distance of 80 miles. Checkpoint 1
- Guard (in Arabic): Do you speak Arabic? Any issues with the driver?
- Guard (in Arabic): Passports.
- Guard (in Arabic): Why didn’t you say you are a tour guide? Where are you from?
- Smart-Ass Tour Guide: Baghdad
- Me (thinking): He obviously wants to know where Ms. TPOL and I are from.
Baghdad, Iraq: Family Reunion
At the top of the Guns & Butter must-do list when visiting a country for the first time is to meet a relative for the first time. Since I was born in the United States, I had never met my uncle. Trying to reconnect with my roots and learn more about my family’s experience in Iraq (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad), I arranged a Sally Jesse Raphael reunion. I was excited when he answered the call. I was ecstatic that he invited me to his home. I was a bit nervous when I showed up because I did not know what to expect. After the usual pleasantries, we got right to it. He treated me like he had known me for years. Nothing was off-limits. I had never met this person, but he was quick-witted, knowledgeable, and refreshingly disagreeable. He shared some funny stories about my parents and my other relatives. We talked typical Arab gossip over Arab cookies, Arabic coffee, and, of course, chai. For me, the debate of nature versus nurture is over. This stranger was no more and never was. Sit with us for a few seconds and you will know that he is my uncle and I am his nephew. This was an awesome experience, one that cannot be replicated and one that I cannot put into words nor would I want to do so. This was also the conclusion of my time in Baghdad. Mosul anyone?
Baghdad, Iraq Day 3: Calm and Culture
If it’s any time in Iraq, it’s chai time. Spent, I needed more caffeine. I went to the espresso place next to my hotel. TPOL’s Tip: The location is Al Arasat St. No. 23 Al Risafa, Baghdad. Be sure to allow extra time to get through the metal detectors and wand pat down. The Iraq Museum Like all Guns & Butter Trip Reports, there is always something I cannot do. In Baghdad, it was visiting the Iraqi National Museum. I overslept the first day when I was supposed to go and it was closed on Saturday which is atypical. While this was not as bad as not seeing King Tut in Cairo (see Guns & Butter: Cairo Travel Guide), it was irritating. My guide was more upset than I was. Karrada From there, we went to Karrada, a district where many Christians live(d). It was unique to see a church and St. Raphael hospital in the heart of Baghdad. Was my sister born there I wondered? In deep thought, I went to Bin Reda Alwan Company Coffee Roaster, a cafe for scholars. Over ice cream and OJ, I studied Soil Mechanics. TPOL’s Tip: The location is Karada Dakhl – near Abu Aklam gas station. Bargaining Visiting museums is my least favorite activity while traveling. As TPOL readers know, bargaining is the exact opposite (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!). This time I was in search of an Iraqi soccer jersey. Because the team has not been good in a long time, finding one anywhere in the city proved challenging. I finally located one and purchased it for 9000 dinar ($6.83). It was XXlL and fit me perfectly, leaving me to wonder what might have been. TPOL’s Trivia: Saddam’s son Udai used to torture players who did not perform well on the pitch. To counteract this barbaric practice, he would purchase Ferraris for those who did well. Masgouf A traditional Arabic dish is masgouf. It is made from river carp caught in the Tigris. The fish is a bottom feeder consuming anything it can to survive.
Baghdad, Iraq Day 2: Welcome to the Jungle
Welcome to the Jungle is the appropriate name for my second day in Baghdad, Iraq following Baghdad, Iraq Day 1: Over Stimulation. Street Market Though I did stop by Times Square for New Year’s in 2021 (see Happy New Year! TPOL’s NYC NYE Party Guide), I avoid it at all costs when I go to New York. The same is true about the markets that take over the city streets. In Baghdad, the markets pop up on Friday. It’s a literal zoo with all sorts of animals from snakes to birds being sold in one area to hundreds of people bargaining for useless junk. With hundreds of people jammed in close proximity, all I could think of was how as recently as 2016, the country was on edge as ISIS had held Mosul hostage and bomb attacks were not uncommon (see Dozens killed as bombs tear through packed markets). While Baghdad is safe, I would’ve fled the scene if I had been on my own. Instead, we spent the next few hours in the scorching heat pummeled by merchants peddling everything under the hot Iraqi sun. I had a brief respite when I stopped for freshly squeezed OJ. The kind merchant didn’t bother charging me upon learning I was Iraqi American. From the jammed street markets, we went to the souk. It was unimpressive. All I saw was useless junk leaving me unable to test my bargaining skills (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!). I did purchase one souvenir. I will display it at Bachuwa Law’s domestic headquarters, Rio Mar, Puerto Rico. Hopefully, it does not constitute the unauthorized practice of law. Kubba Break Before going to the famous Muttanabi Street, I saw a place selling a traditional Iraqi dish, kubba. I had to stop for a sample. Not as good as grandma’s, but it did bring back memories. Muttanabi Street Before my trip and in my quest to become a polyglot (see TPOL The Polyglot: A Better Way to Learn Multiple Languages), I learned how to ask, “وين شارِع المُتَنَبّي؟,” which means, “where is Muttanabi Street?” Al-Muttanabi was a famous Iraqi poet and the street that bears his name still sells books, though some are of questionable quality. An obligatory stop on Muttanabi Street is Shabandar Café (مقهى الشابندر) which opened in 1917. It is what Kasalta is to locals of Puerto Rico, a place to go, chat, relax, and perhaps, write poetry. My hookah days are behind me, but I received enough second hand argheli smoke and cigarette smoke regardless. I also had one of many chai’s on my chai crawl troul of Baghdad. The lemon style had a kick to it. Mikey Spotting A fun activity while in Baghdad is Mikey spotting. I couldn’t help but notice how many Iraqi men look like my Palestinian golf extraordinaire friend, Mikey (see Since I cannot personally go to SE Asia with Mikey and show him the ladyboy bars in Bangkok…). TPOL’s Trivia: Shabandar Café is also called Martyr Cafe because a suicide bomber killed including many civilians including the owners’ sons in a cowardly attack in 2007 following the US invasion of Iraq. Like the open market, it was eery to know I was in a place that had witnessed so much carnage. Haircut Spotting Can you spot the cool haircut? Food Everywhere Hungry? Why wait? Architecture Throughout Baghdad there is British-inspired architecture. Once upon a time, it was that beautiful. Now, it is a depressing sign of a city cemented in disrepair, if not despair. Juice, Hookah, Cafe Repeat On a semi-diet and without access to pubs, filling the time in Baghdad proved challenging. I found myself going from one cafe to another drinking chai and having freshly squeezed OJ. The option to smoke argheli was available. I kept asking myself if lung cancer and diabetes were better than cirrhosis of the liver. If you’re looking to pass the time or waste it, add in a game of backgammon, طاولة الزهر, with a few of your local friends. You will be there all day. If you’re wondering who that woman is on the wall, it is Umm Kulthum. TPOL’s Trivia: Do you know Umm Kulthum is the most famous Arab singer of all time? Her story has a dark side, one based on propaganda. The government supported her marathon concerts as a way of distracting the masses from their actions and as a tool for promoting Arab nationalism. TPOL’s TIP: Women are welcome in the argheli bar. No one gave Ms. TPOL or me weird looks when we joined a group of gentlemen at their table. Al-Muttanabi Statue Overlooking the Tigris is the Al-Muttanabi Statue. Next to that is a cafe for more chai. TPOL’s Trivia: Did you know I was the 24th American lawyer sworn into the Mongolian bar (see Remember That Time TPOL Moved to Mongolia?)? Along with my Achilles rupture (see TPOL Is Down, The Website, Not the Achilles), Kobe and I have another thing in common. Abu Hanifa Mosque Our next step was the Abu Hanifa mosque. Security was very tight. So was the dress code. Ms. TPOL purchased an abaya to enter. Before going in, all phones and electronics are checked. This explains the lack of photos. Here is one before going in: Modern Cafe After that, it was back to another cafe. I substituted tea for espresso. The place, Fay, was more lively and younger in its demographic. For the first time, I saw a mixture of men and women. It felt like a normal coffee shop. TPOL’s Tip: Fay’s Cafe is located at Four Streets،, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq Saving Iraqi Culture The marathon tour continued with photos in front of the Saving Iraqi Culture Monument. To me, it looked like a reminder of my Achilles injury. Dinner Instead of going for traditional Arabic food, we went to a pizza place that made Arabic favorites on flatbreads. It was very creative and delicious. Like the modern cafe, it was a positive sign of change. TPOL’s TIP: I recommend the hummus with beef but the falafel was also nice. TPOL’s Tip: Sin30 is located at Four Streets, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, 00964, Iraq. Reflection It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad). I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts? Overall Day 2 was appropriately called Welcome to the Jungle. Chaos aside, day 2 in Baghdad turned out quite nice.
The Time New York: A Hidden Hyatt Hotel
Getting There: Getting from and to JFK is a pain. While Uber is absurdly priced at over $100 (see JFK AirTrain: Why Mess with Uber to Manhattan?), the cheaper options aren’t convenient. To get to the Time New York, I took Airtrain to Jamaica Station to the LIRR to Penn Station and then the 1 train to 50th Street.
Entrance The hotel lobby is on the second floor. To get there, take the elevator from the main entrance. If you have any questions, use the antique phone. Double Petite Room I booked the cheapest room I could find. Here, it was the double petite room. Unfortunately, I was upgraded to a king deluxe so I cannot write about it. I asked the front desk what I would have received. He said a very cozy room with a double bed. King Deluxe These Hyatt boutique hotels are wonderful. The small quirks make them unique (see Grayson NYC: Stay for the Revival Bedding). At The Time New York, I liked the glass closet but can’t say I cared for the TV in the mirror. Functionally, it does not work well when the curtains aren’t drawn. Bathroom The pressure was better than the Grayson, but I have to wonder why there is the option to shower in scalding hot water. Wine Hour From 5-6PM there is a wine and cheese hour. The concept was cool but the Malbec was warm. Overall I would stay here again but I am also curious to see what other Hyatt boutique hotels are like.
Worst Pho NYC, Worldwide
I was reluctant to go to Mama Pho NYC because I had a bad experience at another pho joint called Mama Pho (see Mama Pho Warsaw? More Like Mama Huhu). But since it was the closest result after Googling ‘pho near me,’ I gave it a chance. I thought the worst pho in the world was in Darwin, Australia (see Pho Darwin: Worst in the World). That is no longer the case. Here’s why: Star Anise According to runawayrice.com, star anise is a key pho spice. It adds a slightly bittersweet and licorice-like aroma and taste to pho broth. At Mama Pho, the chef must believe that star anise should be the dominant spice. It was all I could taste. While I love Sambuca, I don’t want an extra large bowl of it. Grease What rhymes with anise? The answer is grease. And that’s what this bowl was, a big bucket of grease. Meat The beef was dry and old. It looked like it had sat out for too long. Onions What lazy person cut these onions? Huge pieces everywhere in all shapes and sizes. Summer Rolls The summer rolls came out after the pho. I hoped that it would be a good dessert. It was not. Like the beef in the pho, the shrimp was stale. Large Bowl I always order a large bowl and I usually finish it. Here, I was given a medium bowl by mistake. That was fine with me because I had no intention of drinking the broth. Unfortunately, the employee realized he gave me the wrong size and brought me a supplemental bowl. Like when I was in Darwin, I didn’t want to be rude but I also didn’t want to eat it. Unlike Darwin, I didn’t send it back. I forced myself to have a few spoons before giving up. Overall This is the worst pho place in the world.
LAS-IAH-SJU in Coach: Houston We Don’t Have a Problem
I have no airline status and after flying AA ‘first’ (see AA SJU-MIA-LAS: Borracho in Business (First)), I will reaffirm that I’m fine with it. If you have status on a domestic carrier, chances are that you are flying too much for a thankless job. Chances are that you are a Hyatt Globalist staying too frequently at Hyatt Place. That is not the life. When I returned from Vegas, I found myself back in peasant class, right where I belong. In fact, I was in the last row of the plane, on a full flight, no less. While I had no luck going to Vegas, I was pleasantly surprised that my flight to Puerto Rico was almost empty. Overall In the US, unless I’m flying lie-flat, I’m fine flying coach.
Aria Vegas: Sweet Life, If You Can Experience It
Why do I always receive suite upgrades when I am unable to make the most use out of them? I was in Vegas for two nights. The first night I went back to my cheap, go-to option, the Hyatt Place for 9k points (see The Hyatt Place Las Vegas Review: No Dice). Arriving at midnight, it didn’t make sense to pay or use points for an on-strip option. And, given that my conference was at the UNLV Law School, Hyatt Place was ideal for the location. The second night, I used an expiring Marriott stay cert and booked a room at the Aria. I didn’t arrive at the Aria until 8PM on a Friday. I was impressed yet disappointed that I would only have a few hours in this tower suite. Living Room Bedroom The bedroom was something else. It reminded me of my view in the Ascott Thonglor, my home during my Bangkok Residency. Bathroom What’s better than a bathroom that reminds you of home? Don’t Touch Anything Everything has a charge. Drink and party at your own peril. Lounge In addition to the suite upgrade, there is a lounge for refreshments (not alcohol) and light snacks which is accessible with the tower suite room key. Overall What a beautiful room. What a nice hotel. Or so I’ve heard.