Ngwe Saung, a beautiful beach town in Myanmar, is only 150 miles away from Yangon. If you’re tired of the crowds, incessant heat, and general dirtiness of Yangon, then getaway to Ngwe Saung. Warning: 150 miles doesn’t mean it will take you a half hour to fly there or a few hours by car. To begin, there aren’t any flights to there. The only advisable way for a tourist to get there is via bus which leaves from a dark street in the evening and arrives inconveniently at 4AM. On the way to Ngwe Saung, expect an eight hour trip, a few pit stops, and a bumpy ride. For your own peace of mind, try not to look out the window. The roads are winding, unpaved, and unsafe by Western standards. It’s the sort of story you read about in the papers where the bus ends up in a ditch and no one is surprised.
Either way, it’s worth the risk because Ngwe Saung is quite lovely.
Check in on the side of the street in the dark via flashlightModern bus for the endless drivePit stopEarly am arrival in search of hotel
Myanmar, the land of the golden pagodas, has opened its doors to tourism. It has not opened its doors to reasonably priced accommodations. The two hotels of prominence are The Strand Hotel and The Shangri-La. Both are worth a visit but certainly not worth the cost of admission.
There are no SPGs, Hiltons, or Hyatts in Yangon. There are only overpriced guesthouses that start at $25 and go up to $100. Regardless of how much you spend, you still receive the same thing: junk. I’ve stayed at hostels across the globe and the reason I do so is because of price, convenience, and opportunity to meet like-minded travelers. In Yangon, none of those factors come into play. The prices are inflated and they are not willing to negotiate. Convenience is impossible in a city of traffic and no street lights. As far as like-minded travelers, one thing I did appreciate about Yangon is the lack of tourists compared to cities like Bangkok.
The tragedy of Yangon is how beautiful the city used to be. The architecture constructed by the British colonists is timeless. The isolationist economy and general disdain for the imperialist Brits are among the reasons these buildings have fallen into disrepair. The dilapidation extends to the entire infrastructure of the city. In comparison, the capital which moved from Yangon to Naypyidaw, a city that no tourists visits, has modern highways and buildings. This makes one question why those resources aren’t spent restoring what was once a splendid city.
As far as hotel reviews go, I have none. Take the cheapest one, survive, then get out and explore.
Thanks to the trainee for guiding us at DMK airport Bangkok on our way to YangonApproaching YangonThe mystique of YangonOur hostel$25/nightImagine this building in its dayHerman Cain’s Noodle ShopMore beautiful architectureThe British InfluenceThe Strand HotelPool at the StrandHappy Hour at the StrandThe General Post OfficeThe unimpressive, overpriced Shangri-LaShangri-LaBeautiful colorsEnvision what this once was.Looking down from the garbage hostelImagine what this city used to look like.Stunning views.The contrast of the golden pagodas to…This
Anything on the line (Production Possibilities Frontier for my fellow economists) is an efficient use of your time depending on your tastes and preferences.
Anything inside the line is inefficient as should be avoided.
Anything outside is aspirational but may be impossible to do given the constraints of time and resources.
The opportunity cost (what is given up) for relaxing and being Lazy is gained by being adventurous in the form of Labor and vice versa.
Negotiating
Drop your guard, you’re no longer in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. That moment of calm evaporates quickly as you arrive at the bus station in search of a ride to your hotel. “$20 my friend,” must mean we really aren’t good friends. Pay $4 max and not per person.
Negotiations continue when you arrive at a local hotel as you haggle with the front-desk for the nightly rate. Incidentally, liking the hotel’s page on Facebook can result in a $10 discount.
The haggling continues as you enter the Chiang Rai night market which is the worst bazaar I’ve ever visited. The merchandise was nice but the merchants were awful. They wouldn’t negotiate the prices down to anything reasonable. (Consult my guide for what things should cost.) I left without any new tee shirts and without making any new friends.
Finally, the negotiating continued as I tried to find ‘best price’ for a day tour of Chiang Rai. I paid 1000 baht/person to see the White Temple, a boat ride to the elephants, lunch, the hot springs, and a ride home. I think I could’ve done better.
Elephant Ride
PETA people avert your eyes. I took an elephant ride on the river following the boat up the Mekong where I narrowly avoiding being sucked into the drug trade of the infamous Golden Triangle, the intersection of Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand.
After feeding the elephant banana after banana, it was time for the elephant to exercise. N̂xy, which means little in Thai, took us from the elephant sanctuary, into the river, and then back and the main road for a trip that lasted about twenty minutes. She was well-behaved and tame compared to her cousins who were more erratic. A few photos later, I hopped off the elephant and we continued on with our adventure. This included a stop at the hot springs which, compared to Costa Rica, was a waste of time and didn’t seem clean.
That’s my boatThat way to the Golden TriangleArriving at the Elephant SanctuaryThe elephantThe elephant sanctuarySlow and steady in the riverView from the wingSo long elephantskip the springsThe hot springSmell the sulfur
Eating
Eating in Northern Thailand is a lot of work. The food is different from Southern Thailand and, in my opinion, much better. Though I will always love phở, tom yum soup is giving it a run for its money. Spicy curries, endless noodles, and seafood platters had me feeling like Anthony Bourdain as I devoured one dish after another.
Best beer in Thailandstreet foodeggegg with noodlespeppersspicyTom yumgreen currypad thaitom yumtom yum zoomedspicy shrimp
White Castle
The White Temple, Wat Rung Khun, is a must see in Chiang Rai though don’t be fooled as I was into believing it was built long ago. Construction began in 1996. It’s impossible to miss the symbolism of the structure. Crossing the bridge to the temple, there are hands reaching up out of the ground representing those that had, as my tourist guide explained, ‘too much drink, too many women.’ Those that avoid these vices won’t suffer the same fate and will make it to salvation.
The White TempleThe hands reaching up from hellMore symbolismThis is niceSmokers go to hellCross to salvationSinghaSurrounding pondThe entrance
Inside, the murals are interesting and disturbing.
Eccentricities of the White Temple
The Town
There’s not much to see in central Chiang Rai. It is a scaled down version of a typical SE Asian backpacker town. There are more temples, an old clock tower, and a new clock tower. A quick stroll through the quiet streets of Chiang Rai requires half an afternoon. Save the rest of your time for overnight treks and other outdoor activities.
Old Clock TowerNew Clock TowerBuddha
Le Meridien
After elephant rides and bargaining headaches head back to Le Meridien for relaxation. Get there in time for happy hour and wait for day to turn into night a great day in Chiang Rai.
Getting There: From the bus station, hire a tuk-tuk for $4. To get to the airport, pay no more than $8 for a taxi. The airport is close by so don’t leave the hotel earlier than necessary.
I tried to leave the Prison of Posh for local life but ended up being overcharged and underwhelmed. After one night at Nak Nakara, I made the executive decision to move to Le Meridien Chiang Rai. The cost of the room during the December peak season is $140 for the standard room or 4000 SPG points. I went with points which was a good value since I value SPG points at 3 cents/point. To make this determination, I use the standard room price as the test for whether to use cash or points even if I know I will be upgraded to a suite. Unless I’m somewhere like the Maldives , I’m not going to pay extra for a nicer room so that amount shouldn’t be included in the computation.
Check-In
The check-in was quick and smooth. As a platinum member I had been upgraded and would receive complimentary breakfast and happy hour.
The lobby decorated for ChristmasThe Lobby
The Hotel
After bouncing around from Mongolia to Bangkok to almost missing the train because of the Myanmar visa, it was nice to unwind at a proper hotel. Though prices for food and drink are outrageous compared to those in town, it was the last thing on my mind. Instead, I sat back and enjoyed the view of the pool and hotel grounds.
The hotel groundsThe hotel groundsThe Coffee BarThe Shop for no bargainsThe hotel groundsSanta’s CribR&R spotThe hotel groundsThe hotel groundsLooks like a golf courseThe hotel grounds
The Pool
Tranquil poolPool at night
The Room
What a room for 4000 points. Nice bed, great bathtub, lovely shower, and a spacious balcony that overlooked the pool.
View of the poolThe balconyThe coffee (no espresso)BathroomThe bathtubLooks out to the roomThe bedWhere no work gets doneWhere no work gets doneThe Grand Deluxe Wing
The Happy Hour
I showed up promptly for the start of Happy Hour which featured frozen drinks, beer, and wine. Snacks were also included. The trick to happy hour is to stop drinking immediately when it ends, lest you cut into your profits by ordering a $7 beer that costs $.65 on the street.
The sun says it’s time for happy hourThe traditionPlatinum perksThese aren’t nonsense chicken fingers
The Location
Le Méridien is a bit far from town. I recommend leaving the resort and hailing a tuk-tuk or hopping on the back of a motorbike. Though taxis aren’t that expensive in comparison, I can’t rationalize giving away my baht without good reason.
Le Méridien Chiang Rai is unquestionably worth booking because of the perks described above. It’s undervalued at 4000 points making it the best bargain I received in Thailand even with my stellar haggling skills.
Getting There: Take a tuk-tuk from the bus station for $4.
Last December I made the choice to stay local in Chiang Rai instead of opting with the comfortable option of going with the chain brand. After my stay at the Hyatt Kyoto, I thought I should switch it up.
I stayed at Nak Nakara which is the #8 hotel on TripAdvisor in Chiang Rai. The hotel was $50 for one night which is steep for SE Asia. It did have a nice pool, decent room, and an all right breakfast but for that price it wasn’t worth it. I’ve concluded that if you are going to stay local, then go cheap. I’m talking $8/night, questionable bedding, no separation from shower or toilet cheap. After staying at the best, splurging for fake luxury is a waste of money. Also, part of the experience of quasi-backpacking is the stories of God awful, abysmal hotels which make a trip memorable. At the same time, make sure the hotel has some standard of cleanliness so you don’t die.
According to locals, Nak Nakara is where Thai celebrities stay when they are in Northern Thailand. They’d be better served to go up the street to the Le Méridien, the #4 best hotel on TripAdvisor.
The lobbyThe poolThe groundsThe entranceThe landscapeNice touchThe HotelNak NakaraThat could be youThe worst feature of too many SE Asian rooms.The bed was sort of comfortableView from above
Save the date: April 15th Southwest will do who knows what to its redemption chart. June 1st: Club Carlson will have a bouncer at the door allowing you in only for one night. So the question becomes what to do before then and how to do it in the most efficient way?
One weird thing from my perusal of Southwest’s site is the amount that points tickets cost. Returning from Dominican, the taxes are $101. Checking ITA I noticed that a flight on the dreaded Spirit was $127 making that 7k great deal not great at all.
book a flight on SQ A380 stopping in Frankfurt on the way to Singapore in order to get two new pairs of Givenchy pajamas as mine are a little worn from overuse.
Spending a small fortune to go back to a place I once lived for a few days is out of the question. My sincerest apologies to the happy couple for my crass statement.
Rather than focus on the negative, I’ve put together a scrapbook of the good times shared with Club Carlson at some of their best properties worldwide. We had a good time while it lasted.
Getting There: Consult The Man in Seat 61 for all your train travel needs in Thailand.
Planes, trains, and automobiles. What is more fitting than taking the train to Northern Thailand after the nightmare of getting the visa for Myanmar?
We arrived to the station in the nick of time and settled in on what proved to be the highlight of this trip. The cabin was spacious, the service was impeccable, and the ride was smooth. We did encounter a couple of unexpected surprises once aboard the train. First, I wasn’t allowed to enter the dining car because our car was separated by an all women’s car of which men are not allowed. Second, alcohol is no longer served on the train. The rules were understandably implemented as a result of a prior sexual assault.
Despite the inaccessibility to the dining car, we still managed to have a feast of feasts because we were offered the in-car dining option. As crazy as it sounds, our dinner ended up being the best that we had in all of Thailand. The Tom Yum soup was incomparable and the curries were on point. Hours later we were offered breakfast which was also delightful.
After eating and eating, we slept in our comfy bed with nice linens hoping that the ride would last a little bit longer. Sure you can fly from Bangkok to Chiang Rai but taking the train to Chiang Mai then enduring the bus to Chiang Rai is well worth the experience and extra time. The total cost from Bangkok to Chiang Rai was $28/pax.
All Aboard!Nick of timeLike SPG with 2 waters. Sink + Electrical outlet also included.Our quartersIn-room diningTom YumDinnerSo much seafoodTom Yum by nightExtra helpingsDeliciousMorning arrivalBreakfastLike SPG PlatinumView from the Wing/CabooseI don’t recommend the toiletOur coachChiang Mai!Now for the bus
Getting There: Take bus #6006 which is Gate 5 at the airport. Get off at Prima Hotel Stop. It will cost you 10,000 won and take about an hour to reach.
The best part of Ulaanbaatar is leaving Ulaanbaatar. Despite early positivity that I had made the right choice to move to Mongolia, things were unraveling quickly. Risking over staying my welcome, this American in Mongolia had to make a quick dash for the Korean border to keep his visa intact.
As luck would have it, my favorite hotel in Bangkok, the Aloft had recently opened in the posh neighborhood of Gangnam in Seoul. The hotel is affordable at $100 a night and a ripoff at 7000 SPG points. The same Aloft tranquility of a great bed and shower await making this two-day getaway a great break from the frost of my place of residence.
The Aloft is up on the leftCross the street to the AloftThe Entrance, Gangnam StyleAloft artAloft lobbyAloft bedAloft TVAloft pillowsAloft relaxAloft robeAloft waterAloft cupAloft and Hennessy
Getting There: I’m not an expert when it comes to Beijing but I do know the only way to get to this hotel is via taxi and it takes far longer than the 35-minute ride as quoted by the hotel, though the 120 yuan cost sounds about right.
The flight from KIX-PEK was the same worn out Air China business class product reviewed a couple of times in the Flight Reviews section. Since there’s nothing new to report there, I will focus on the hotel.
The Location
My issue with the Aloft Beijing Haidian comes from the website’s own description: “Our name says it all—Aloft Beijing, Haidian—so our location’s kind of a no-brainer, in the bustling Haidian District of China’s vibrant capital city.”
There is absolutely nothing bustling about the Haidian District. We couldn’t find a restaurant that was open which may be due to the clueless staff who knew nothing about Haidian. All of their recommendations required taking a taxi or metro to the other side of town.
Rather than sit in the hotel, we set out to find some beer and food on our own. Thanks to our adventurous spirit, here’s what we ended up with:
Peking Duck
The Room
Aloft=aloft comfort no matter where you go. It’s my favorite hotel for a quick one night stay.
Great aloft bedaloft amenitiesaloft body washaloft shampoo
The Hotel Itself
The hotel itself was up to Aloft standards.
The lobbyice creamwxyz bar, same everywhere you goManhattan in BeijingStarbury in BeijingYet to swim at an aloft pool
Are you the fat guy in the lounge? When I went to write this Lounge Review, I recalled my a-live post from when I was in Osaka heading back to Mongolia via Beijing. Much like the Air China Business Class Lounge in Shanghai, the JAL Sakura Lounge Osaka is a feeding frenzy. The food isn’t as good but it is not in short supply. The coolest part of the lounge is the beer dispenser which scoops up your glass, fills it, and returns a perfect pour.
What’s behind door #1?Remy!Spicy Sauce?Bad champagneReadySetBeerNever-ending curryNice to sit and relax
