Baghdad Day 2 is part of the Iraq Homecoming Trip Report. Read Day 1.
Welcome to the Jungle is the appropriate name for my second day in Baghdad, Iraq following Baghdad, Iraq Day 1: Over Stimulation.
Street Market
Though I did stop by Times Square for New Year’s in 2021 (see Happy New Year! TPOL’s NYC NYE Party Guide), I avoid it at all costs when I go to New York. The same is true about the markets that take over the city streets. In Baghdad, the markets pop up on Friday. It’s a literal zoo with all sorts of animals from snakes to birds being sold in one area to hundreds of people bargaining for useless junk. With hundreds of people jammed in close proximity, all I could think of was how as recently as 2016, the country was on edge as ISIS had held Mosul hostage and bomb attacks were not uncommon (see Dozens killed as bombs tear through packed markets). While Baghdad is safe, I would’ve fled the scene if I had been on my own. Instead, we spent the next few hours in the scorching heat pummeled by merchants peddling everything under the hot Iraqi sun.
I had a brief respite when I stopped for freshly squeezed OJ. The kind merchant didn’t bother charging me upon learning I was Iraqi American.
From the jammed street markets, we went to the souk. It was unimpressive. All I saw was useless junk leaving me unable to test my bargaining skills (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!).
I did purchase one souvenir. I will display it at Bachuwa Law’s domestic headquarters, Rio Mar, Puerto Rico. Hopefully, it does not constitute the unauthorized practice of law.
Kubba Break
Before going to the famous Muttanabi Street, I saw a place selling a traditional Iraqi dish, kubba. I had to stop for a sample. Not as good as grandma’s, but it did bring back memories.
Muttanabi Street
Before my trip and in my quest to become a polyglot (see TPOL The Polyglot: A Better Way to Learn Multiple Languages), I learned how to ask, “وين شارِع المُتَنَبّي؟,” which means, “where is Muttanabi Street?” Al-Muttanabi was a famous Iraqi poet and the street that bears his name still sells books, though some are of questionable quality.
An obligatory stop on Muttanabi Street is Shabandar Café (مقهى الشابندر) which opened in 1917. It is what Kasalta is to locals of Puerto Rico, a place to go, chat, relax, and perhaps, write poetry.
My hookah days are behind me, but I received enough second hand argheli smoke and cigarette smoke regardless. I also had one of many chai’s on my chai crawl troul of Baghdad. The lemon style had a kick to it.
Mikey Spotting
A fun activity while in Baghdad is Mikey spotting. I couldn’t help but notice how many Iraqi men look like my Palestinian golf extraordinaire friend, Mikey (see Since I cannot personally go to SE Asia with Mikey and show him the ladyboy bars in Bangkok…).
TPOL’s Trivia: Shabandar Café is also called Martyr Cafe because a suicide bomber killed including many civilians including the owners’ sons in a cowardly attack in 2007 following the US invasion of Iraq. Like the open market, it was eery to know I was in a place that had witnessed so much carnage.
Haircut Spotting
Can you spot the cool haircut?
Food Everywhere
Hungry? Why wait?
Architecture
Throughout Baghdad there is British-inspired architecture. Once upon a time, it was that beautiful. Now, it is a depressing sign of a city cemented in disrepair, if not despair.
Juice, Hookah, Cafe Repeat
On a semi-diet and without access to pubs, filling the time in Baghdad proved challenging. I found myself going from one cafe to another drinking chai and having freshly squeezed OJ. The option to smoke argheli was available. I kept asking myself if lung cancer and diabetes were better than cirrhosis of the liver.
If you’re looking to pass the time or waste it, add in a game of backgammon, طاولة الزهر, with a few of your local friends. You will be there all day.
If you’re wondering who that woman is on the wall, it is Umm Kulthum.
TPOL’s Trivia: Do you know Umm Kulthum is the most famous Arab singer of all time? Her story has a dark side, one based on propaganda. The government supported her marathon concerts as a way of distracting the masses from their actions and as a tool for promoting Arab nationalism.
TPOL’s TIP: Women are welcome in the argheli bar. No one gave Ms. TPOL or me weird looks when we joined a group of gentlemen at their table.
Al-Muttanabi Statue
Overlooking the Tigris is the Al-Muttanabi Statue. Next to that is a cafe for more chai.
TPOL’s Trivia: Did you know I was the 24th American lawyer sworn into the Mongolian bar (see Remember That Time TPOL Moved to Mongolia?)? Along with my Achilles rupture (see TPOL Is Down, The Website, Not the Achilles), Kobe and I have another thing in common.
Abu Hanifa Mosque
Our next step was the Abu Hanifa mosque. Security was very tight. So was the dress code. Ms. TPOL purchased an abaya to enter.
Before going in, all phones and electronics are checked. This explains the lack of photos. Here is one before going in:
Modern Cafe
After that, it was back to another cafe. I substituted tea for espresso. The place, Fay, was more lively and younger in its demographic. For the first time, I saw a mixture of men and women. It felt like a normal coffee shop.
TPOL’s Tip: Fay’s Cafe is located at Four Streets،, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq
Saving Iraqi Culture
The marathon tour continued with photos in front of the Saving Iraqi Culture Monument. To me, it looked like a reminder of my Achilles injury.
Dinner
Instead of going for traditional Arabic food, we went to a pizza place that made Arabic favorites on flatbreads. It was very creative and delicious. Like the modern cafe, it was a positive sign of change.
TPOL’s TIP: I recommend the hummus with beef but the falafel was also nice.
TPOL’s Tip: Sin30 is located at Four Streets, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, 00964, Iraq.
Reflection
It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad). I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts?
Overall
Day 2 was appropriately called Welcome to the Jungle. Chaos aside, day 2 in Baghdad turned out quite nice.
Formidable trip report with photos to boot – thank you for sharing! Amusing to see your better half enjoying a nargela puff!
Not sure about entering a mosque, but back in the 1960s and 70s, only the Akhwat Muslimat (Muslim Sisters) wore hijab in major cities of Iraq, and they were less than 1% of the female population at the time. Nowadays, this cultural shift in attire seems to have prevailed.
She’s the only one who smokes. Not me.
Outstanding series of posts. Informative and give an authentic feel
Thank you. Many more to come.