The Customs of the Chinese
Attending an international business school for my MBA, I was taught to appreciate the cultural customs of foreign countries. Certain behaviors that are commonplace in the United States are insulting abroad.
But, this isn’t a post about those customs. This is a post about Customs- the regulatory agency that permits or forbids foreigners from entering, and in this case, leaving the host country.
It has been well documented in this blog that visas are necessary to enter certain countries and the imperialist attitude “but I’m American” doesn’t fly at many foreign airports. With this knowledge, I was skeptical of China’s 72 hour no visa needed rule. Essentially, the rule says so long as you enter and leave one Chinese city, say Shanghai, and transit to a third country, you do not need a visa. That is very convenient because a Chinese visa costs upwards of $200.
My flight, also documented here, originated in New York, onto Dubai, then into Shanghai. My departure was from Shanghai, onto Singapore, arriving into Bali. All of it was within 72 hours and I went to and fro with no incident.
That was not the case for one, Michael Jeries. He was leaving Ho Chi Minh City, connecting in Hong Kong, then onto Shanghai. His departure, which I personally assisted in booking and providing points routed him through Hong Kong and onto Singapore. The product he would be flying would be Cathay Pacific, my favorite airline in the world (I will publish the gimmicky list of best airlines in the world at a later date).
Well, as Mikey learned and as I posted this ingenius routing was pretty stupid. The way the Chinese saw it Mikey was departing from Hong Kong and returning to Hong Kong, thereby violating the “3rd country, I’m in transit” rule. Initially, I thought the Chinese were abject to the idea that Hong Kong was not really a country and Mikey was inappropriately using the loophole that Hong Kong is China so he would need a visa.
No, that would’ve been acceptable had he went direct from Ho Chi to Shanghai. As it stood, he, on paper, had a round-trip to Hong Kong and would need to change his exit flight if he wanted to enter China.
Clever as he is, Mikey booked a flight from Shanghai to Macau (another SAR region of China thereby nullifying my original hypothesis that he was going into and out of China). From Macau, Mikey would catch the ferry to Hong Kong then bask in the service of Cathay Pacific.
A weekend of drama and hypotheticals ensued as Mikey and I played craps and another game, “What’s the worst Chinese customs will do to you.” Fearful of ending in a labor camp, Mikey decided to change his business class itinerary (formerly PVG to HKG to SIN) to fly to Kuala Lumpur then onto Singapore. That would not be in violation of the 72 hour rule and he would avoid all hassle.
Still slightly apprehensive, MJ left the glory of the Waldorf for the amnesty of the airport, just in case Customs would have something to say on the contrary.
Hours later, I met up with my fellow traveler to find that our ‘clever’ plan was not thought so by the Chinese. Perplexed, concerned, and perhaps pestered as to why MJ was no longer going to Macau, Chinese customs searched all of his belongings. They removed every single item from his luggage and ran it through the scanner.
Detained but not deterred, MJ finally made it to Singapore. Meanwhile, I was inconvenienced by the nonstop flow of fine Reds in Singapore business class.
For the Young at Heart
I don’t check into my points redemption Sheraton Kuta till tomorrow leaving me in need of a hotel for a night. Nostalgia set in and I booked one night at the Bounty Hotel whose slogan is “For the Young at Heart.”
It really should be, “For the drunk, economical, or otherwise insolvent by default.” This hotel has nice rooms, great food, and crippling drinks without the price premium to match.
Checking into a place like this puts things into perspective, to some degree while forcing the patron to question others.
1. Is it worth it to stay at a premium points property for free with the tradeoff of being gouged for basic amenities including food and drink?
1a. If yes, then should one stay at said premium property if he is concerned about those prices?
2. When are you too old for the hostel lifestyle, even if the glorified hostel comes in the name of hotel and boasts the slogan, “For the Young at Heart.”
As much I would like to speculate as to the answers of these significant questions, I have to get to work on this FGD drink.
Any guesses what FGD stands for?
Xiao Long Bao: A Tutorial
A trip to Shanghai would be all for naught if you do not have authentic, street inspired xiao long bao. They aren’t your local Chinese restaurant’s takeout dumplings and they aren’t made better anywhere in the entire planet. Trust me, I’ve gone to ChinaTowns all across the world and none of them compare. A close second may be Taipei but those still fall short.
First, let’s define what xiao long bao is by saying that aren’t a prototypical dumpling. These little bundles of joy have something that dumplings do not, steamy hot delicious soup trapped inside.
It is, no doubt, one of the great wonders of the world how they inject the soup into the dumpling and how, even with this amazing soup trapped inside, the dumpling can preserve its structural integrity. I’ve watched them construct xiao long bao at many a restaurant and I’m still baffled by the process.
From the soup you have the meat, usually pork that’s oh so tender. From there you have the outside of the dumpling. Xiao long bao is steamed and sheng jian bao is pan fried. Both are delicious.
Now for the ordering:
If you’re meandering through Shanghai and find a street where they make xiao long bao (this is becoming increasingly elusive because of the commercialization of the city center) how do you know which vendor to select? Go with the obvious choice, the one with the longest line. The battle of xiao long bao creators has been going on since the beginning of time and the level of pride from producing perfection is passed on from one generation to the next.
Step up and point to the dumplings, signal the number 1 with your hand, and prepare your coins. The cost is a laughable 45 to 90 cents for half a dozen dumplings.
From there, find a seat on the street or an impromptu table while grabbing a bottle of vinegar and adding in chili paste for dipping.
Your required utensils are a sturdy pair of kuazi (chopsticks) and a spoon. Lift the dumpling with the chopsticks while holding the spoon below. Dip the dumpling into the vinegar and prepare to be wowed.
But xiaoxin (be careful), before you sink your teeth into this savory morsel whose translation means “little basket dumpling” remember the soup is scalding hot!
Poke a small hole into the dumpling, suck out the soup, then devour the rest.
It’s pointless to look for napkins so keep eating and don’t be bashful about the mess that you have created.
It’s an Institution Sir
“It’s an institution sir.” Words quoted by a the best lobby boy of all time.
Days after leaving the Grand Budapest Hotel, I have found myself at another first rate institution known as the Waldorf Astoria Shanghai. The hotel is immaculate and the service is impeccable, such is to be expected from a hotel that boasts the iconic name Waldorf.
From the junior suite upgrade, I ventured forth to the esteemed Long Bar that has been in operation since 1911. The bar has undergone many changes throughout the years, most notably as the kitchen for the first American fast food restaurant in Shanghai- a KFC.
Since then, the grease has been scrubbed away and the glamour has been restored. The cocktails are one of a kind and the service mirrors the grandiosity of the hotel as a whole.
I am enjoying my third drink as I write this post, an appropriate Waldorf Express Martini, “a twist on the classic Espresso Martini,” artfully created by the mixologist Nelson. (Though he hails from Portugal, the team surely to lose to the United States today, that does not detract from his abilities.)
But due to my current state, I must bid adieu to my readers and say cheers to the red, white, and blue!
A View from the Top
The Park Hyatt is located in the World Financial Center, the 6th tallest building in the world. Next to it is the Jin Mao tower which ranks 15th. Obstructing my view of the Huangpu River is the Shanghai Tower which is the second tallest. From there you have the rest of the Shanghai skyline which, in my opinion, is the best in the world.
The Sharks Are in the Water
“Swing by if you’re in the neighborhood,” Michel Jeries said months ago. Mikey lived in Michigan and I lived in Arizona so I only get to rage it with him a couple times a year when I go home for the holidays. Then he decided to leave Michigan for Thailand and sent me a text with that message. For your average bloke, such a text would be ludicrous. “Oh yes, I’ll conveniently be in SE Asia at the same time as you.” For me, the creative points spender, it was not that far-fetched. But, due to work related issues, it seemed like I wouldn’t be able to drop by. That is why I wrote him a guide for what to do and see in SE Asia. As the days went by I unconsciously found myself checking flight availability to Asia and thinking of great reasons why it was imperative I meet him. 1. He will have to drink alone. With that, I booked my flight and readied myself for our global marathon. Then there was some drama along the way which I documented while flying into Shanghai and have attached below:
The last 7.5 hours have been relaxing and nerve wracking as I make my way to Shanghai. Relaxing because I’m flying Emirates business and the Pinot Noir was splendid. Nerve wracking because a scene from Home Alone II keeps playing in my head: “I did it again!” (search Visa story, I can’t insert hyperlinks via blackberry)
Normally, if you want to visit China you need to obtain a visa ahead of time but now they have a 72 hour no visa policy. I’m landing from Dubai into Shanghai at 11:25PM and leaving for Singapore en route to Bali Monday night. So I should have no problems coming and going.
On the other hand, my best friend Michael Jeries text me 8 hours ago that he may not be able to meet me in Shanghai because his flight from Shanghai to Singapore stops in Hong Kong. He has been told that Hong Kong is not a third country (it is technically China) and therefore does not fall under the 72 hour exception.
Now I’m sitting here with no Wi-Fi waiting to land hoping that Mikey pulled off magic.
On a lighter note, the Moet, though not as good as the Dom from NYC to Dubai is still flowing.
Mikey did finally show up, 17 hours later than he was supposed to with flight delays for all sorts of reasons.
Shanghai a-live
It sure does feel good to be home. I’m back in Shanghai for the first time in four years and from the initial look of things, nothing has changed.
The airport is still chaotic, the taxi line never-ending, and the people still everywhere. There was no pause in the action despite my departure years ago.
I naively believed that Shanghai and I shared a special chemistry and that she would be lost without me. Yet time has continued to move forward here in spite of my absence. And I haven’t even arrived at the city center yet.
The Seven Cities of Gold
Gold toilets, gold mirrors, gold buttons. Emirates Shower Class suites were catered for Liberace. Elegant or gaudy? That is the question that begs to be asked when it comes to both the airline and the Emirate as a whole. The tallest this, the biggest that, everything is bigger in Texas Dubai. Personally, I prefer the sophisticated simplicity of Cathay Pacific and the unassuming glamour of Asia.
I don’t have time to upload the shower pics just yet as I’m en route to Shanghai but for now enjoy this pic.
You Don’t Belong Here
You sip your champagne and eat your omelette while savoring the freshly squeezed orange juice. Out of the corner of your eye, you notice someone staring right at you. Emboldened by your first class golden ticket, you make eye contact with the inquisitive stranger. He refocuses his attention back on his printed edition of the Wall Street Journal.
Welcome to the Emirates First Class lounge at JFK or any elite level lounge anywhere in the world. I love lounges for many reasons: escaping the noise and chaos of the terminal, binging on the free champagne, and the false sense of entitlement because I am, for a few hours, VIP.
Obviously, my past antics (see here and here) prove otherwise. Furthermore, redeeming a points ticket for $2.50 instead of paying $14,000 to fly Emirates Shower Class on an A380 only bolsters the stranger’s assumption that I don’t belong here.
Like the stranger, I try to profile guests of the airport lounge trying to figure out who’s here on points and who’s here on privilege. I glance at shoes, watches, suits, and briefcases. Surely, those are indicators of professionals who are waiting to catch their flight to attend an important business conference. But wait, who is this guy wearing pajamas, sporting a Rolex, and in flip flops? Is he another points guru with a false watch trying to carry on the charade of being successful?
Wait, that’s just my reflection in the spotless mirror.
Newark, New Jersey: The Discarded Mistress
I left my house (not my house anymore!) at 430am on the way to Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport. I arrived there to find the airline lounge closed, so my requisite need for a Bloody Mary before I fly would not be fulfilled.
From there, I had to go through security again to get to the Southwest terminal, to find my gate had been changed. Then I landed in Houston and as you saw was delayed over and over followed by a gate change. I arrive in Newark to find the cost efficient AirTrain is out of service so I’m taking the bus to Penn Station then onto Grand Central to get to my friends house.I’m not a believer in exisstential forces interfering with my plans but come on already!
All these delays made me overlook how selfish I was being as I hastily exited Newark airport and the state of New jersey as a whole. Maybe this was her way of telling me to slow down. Or maybe this was Chris Christie’s doing.
