Guns & Butter: Bhutan Travel Guide (Happiness Edition)

Bhutan Travel Guide is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1Day 2Day 3Day 4, Day 5 (Part 1 Part 2).


TPOL’s Guns & Butter Travel Guide is the best way to see as much as you can in as little time as possible. Here’s how it works – A trip is composed of two factors: Labor And Lazy. The opportunity cost (what is given up) for relaxing and being Lazy is gained by being adventurous in the form of Labor and vice versa. The guide includes inefficient activities i.e., tourist traps that should be avoided and aspirational activities that are worth doing but may be impossible to see given the constraints of time and resources.


Getting There: Book a flight on Drukair.

TPOL’s TIP: To see Everest, sit on the left if you’re flying from KTM to Paro. Sit on the right on the way back.

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Searching for happiness? Everyone says go to Bhutan. What they don’t detail is how to book a trip to get there, what it will cost, and what tour guide to select. Let’s start with the price.

Americans need chaperones to go to Bhutan (Guided Tours: Like Attending Class, It’s Boring But Sometimes Useful). Here’s what it costs for 5 nights (see How to Book a Trip to Bhutan).

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I booked Bucket List Adventures and have nothing but great things to say about that tour group (see Traveling to Bhutan? Contact Bucket List Adventure).

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Now that the logistics are out of the way, here’s what you should do and what you should avoid.

Avoid #1

Don’t eat at tourist restaurants. Insist on spice!

a basket of red peppers
Spice, spice, baby.

Avoid #2

Big Buddha in Thimphu (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 2).

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Avoid #3 

If you aren’t a cyclist, you won’t enjoy biking down from the Big Buddha.

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Avoid #4

Too many temples, not enough adventure. TPOL isn’t always one with nature, but Bhutan is naturally beautiful. Don’t spend all your time visiting temples (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1).

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Avoid #5: Selfie Death 

Even in the land of happiness, selfie death may occur.

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Do

I’ll list these in order of enjoyment.

#1 Find Happiness 

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You certainly don’t want to come all the way to Bhutan and leave without understanding what happiness is (Finding Happiness: TPOL’s Search for the Point of Life in Bhutan).

#2 Trek up to Tiger’s Nest and Beyond (see Finding Happiness: Tiger’s Nest (Bhutan Day 5)

Invalid request error occurred.Invalid request error occurred.#3 White Water Rafting (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 3)

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#4 Trekking with a Stranger to the Isle of Dogs (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 3)

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#5 Souvenir Shopping

Whether it be buying penises (see Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4) or a futbol outfit (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 3), don’t miss out on happiness souvenirs. Beware of being ripped off.

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Buy your masks in Nepal.

# 6 See Temples

By far the nicest temple is the Palace of Great Happiness (see Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4).

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The tree in the Palace of Great Happiness where Buddha found enlightenment.

By far the most interesting is Chime Lhakhang which was built in tribute of Lam Drukpa Kuenley, the Divine madman, who “deliberately portrayed the image of a vagabond and wandered around the countryside, indulging in song and dance, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting.” Kuenley, a social critic, “taunted the hypocrisy of the established orders, including the monastic order. The use of his phallus as a ‘flaming thunderbolt’ weapon symbolizes the discomfort that society experiences when facing the truth.”

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#7 Watch Archery, Try Archery 

Watching makes you appreciate how impossible this sport is (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 2 and see Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4)

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#8 Eat

Eating is #8 because I was so distracted by what I was doing.

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Beef momo

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Beef momo (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 2) and chili cheese (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 5 (Post Tiger’s Nest)) are prerequisites for happiness.

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#9 Drink

How did drinking not remain a priority? Red rice beer (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1) or arak (see Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4) is what I recommend when you get around to it.

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#10 Golf (see Total Consciousness: Golfing in Bhutan)

There won’t be a tip, but on your death bed, when you die, you’ll receive total consciousness. So I got that going for me.

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#11 Spa

Don’t forget to indulge. Going to a stone spa in a home is a great way to end your trip (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 5 (Post Tiger’s Nest)).

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Next Time?

I don’t think I will visit Bhutan again. It’s not because there isn’t more I could do like festivals or explore the eastern part of the country. It’s because I had such a perfect time and want to remember it that way.


Bhutan Travel Guide is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1Day 2Day 3Day 4, Day 5 (Part 1 Part 2).

 

Finding Happiness: TPOL’s Search for the Point of Life in Bhutan

Happiness is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1, Day 2Day 3Day 4, Day 5 (Part 1 Part 2).


Before going to Bhutan, I thought my quest for happiness was incompatible with the teachings of Buddha. I still enjoy smut and establishments of ill repute (see Since I cannot personally go to SE Asia with Mikey and show him the ladyboy bars in Bangkok…). I thought that zen masters had reached a higher level of consciousness whereby pleasures of the flesh are superficial and that those, like myself, that live in a dark underbelly of humanity were forever lost and eternally irredeemable.

“Give me shot!”, “Give me a line!”, “Give me a punch to the face!” I need something to feel alive. How else can I explain my erratic behavior? How can I know happiness if I’m never sad? How can I feel alive unless I’m on a hangover deathbed from bad choices?

As it turns out, Buddhism accounts for the weaknesses of man. The Wheel of Life explains the Buddhist teachings:

  1. The pig, rooster and snake in the hub of the wheel represent the three poisons of ignorance, attachment and aversion.
  2. The second layer represents karma.
  3. The third layer represents the six realms of Samsara.
  4. The fourth layer represents the twelve links of dependent origination.
  5. The fierce figure holding the wheel represents impermanence. It is also Yama, the god of death.
  6. The moon above the wheel represents liberation from Samsara or cyclic existence.
  7. The Buddha pointing to the white circle indicates that liberation is possible.

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There’s a realism to Buddhist teachings, an authenticity that comes from accepting the inevitability of extreme behaviors manifesting themselves while nevertheless providing another opportunity for redemption, an opportunity for liberation.

My happiness comes from the pursuit of happiness. When I finally get it, whether consciously or unconsciously, I sabotage it if for no other reason than to find it again. That for me is the teaching of Buddha. That to me is happiness. That to me is the point of life.

Traveling to Bhutan? Contact Bucket List Adventure

Best Bhutan Travel Agency is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1, Day 2Day 3, Day 4, Day 5 (Part 1 & Part 2).


I was skeptical about booking my trip to Bhutan because the only way to go if you’re American is to hire a tour guide. If you know TPOL, you know that I hate tours (see Amalfi Coast: A Beautiful Tourist Trap). I was also skeptical that the only way to pay for the trip was by wiring cash (see How to Book a Trip to Bhutan) as credit cards are not accepted.

I am happy to write that the company I contacted, Bucket List Adventure, was awesome. They did everything to make our trip enjoyable. This includes major things like letting me change the itinerary to play golf (see Total Consciousness: Golfing in Bhutan) to indulging me by taking me on an extended trek of Tiger’s Next. I cannot overlook the smaller things either. They were always on time, knowledgable, very patient with my numerous questions, cautious when driving, funny, and genuinely interested in getting to know us. (My only complaint is that we went to too many tourist restaurants that did not serve traditional Bhutanese food. Even that point can be excused based on the final meal of Day 5.) The owner also went out of his way to meet and give us souvenirs as a gesture of thanks. Even though I still hate tours, I am glad that I went on this one (Guided Tours: Like Attending Class, It’s Boring But Sometimes Useful).

Visiting Bhutan was one of my favorite trips of all time. If you go, contact the nice people at Bucket List Adventures. Tell them Alex the Lion, aka TPOL, sent you.

a group of men standing next to a car


Best Bhutan Travel Agency is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1,Day 2Day 3, Day 4, Day 5 (Part 1 & Part 2).

Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 5 (Post Tiger’s Nest)

Finding Happiness Bhutan Day 5 Post Tiger’s Nest is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1 and Bhutan Day 2Day 3, Day 4, and Day 5.


What do you do after you declare victory over life? You go to a hot stone bath. Following the trek up to Tiger’s Nest and beyond (see Finding Happiness: Tiger’s Nest (Bhutan Day 5)), my left knee was sore. The remedy was rest and relaxation. This wasn’t a spa at a resort, nor was it in a commercial building (see New Star Spa Shanghai: It’s a Lounge Without the Flight). It was part of a family house in a remote part of town.

Butter Tea

Before the bath we had butter tea, an interesting concoction. It was relaxing following a long day of trekking. a bowl of rice and a mug of soup on a tablea cup of hot chocolate

Bath

I was a little trepidatious when I entered the room with the baths. It looked like a scene out of Saw. I imagined the lights being cut and some nefarious game being played by the man with the hot stones. Perhaps I have seen one too many scary movies.a hole in a wall with a cup and a bucket two wooden windows with water in them a man looking out of a hole with a green ladle feet in water under a wooden step

Instead of having a freak-out, I relaxed and entered the bath. The water was warm and soothing. When it began to cool, the man would open the board on the outside and place hot stones in the water. It reminded me of the hookah man coming around with fresh coals.a wooden box with a few turtles inside a person standing in a hole in a room

After a few refills, I was refreshed and ready to go.

Dinner

I didn’t know that I would be eating dinner here as well. It really could be a scene from a horror movie. Instead, it was the best dinner of the trip.

Chili Cheese: Besides beef momo (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 2) chili cheese is my favorite Bhutanese dish. Add chili to the chili cheese on top of rice and you have a meal that should never end.a bowl of food with a spoon

Spinach Cheese: Bhutanese cheese is like high-quality nacho cheese. I am not talking about the kind from the ballpark either.

a bowl of food with a fork a bowl of food with tongs

If that wasn’t enough there were plenty of other dishes including egg and pork.

You’re a Kid!

I love spicy chilis. Bhutan has a pico like salad with chilis that will make you sweat.

a bowl of food with a spoon

At the guesthouse, there was a strange fellow who claimed to be from Barcelona but spoke with a British, Irish, and Australian accent simultaneously. He said he did not like chili which drew a gasp from the locals. One remarked that if someone from Bhutan goes to a small village and says no to chili, they will be heckled with the line, “You’re a kid!” I dared the Spaniard who we all suspected to be a spy, to eat some chili. He refused. And the heckling began.

Arak

After dinner, we had shots of arak, toasting in the way we had previously learned (see Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4).a red and silver thermos on a tablea metal barrel with a glass container on a table

Overall

Tiger’s Nest was victory over life. The spa was victory over stress. The food was victory over hunger, for the time being.

Beware of Selfie Death!

Selfie Death is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1 and Bhutan Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, and Day 5.


It’s not funny that people die from taking selfies but my first reaction is why do people put themselves at risk for a photo?

I rarely take selfies because they are stupid. I did it this time in above Tiger’s Nest because literally there wasn’t anyone else around to take a group photo. While adjusting the shot to get as much of the temple as possible, I noticed a gap in the fencing. I wasn’t near the gap and had I fallen, I would’ve landed in a patch of grass directly below. Still, it’s troubling to think about what could have been. More importantly, it is another travel lesson to add to my Travel Nightmares page.

a stone walkway with a building on top of a mountain

a man standing on a cliff with a house on top of it
But I would’ve been ok.

Finding Happiness: Tiger’s Nest (Bhutan Day 5)

Tigers Nest Bhutan Tips is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1 and Bhutan Day 2, Day 3, and Day 4.


Day 5 started with me worrying about the weather for the epic trek to the Tiger’s Nest. The rain started early in the morning and didn’t show signs of stopping. I was worried, given the fog in the Dochula pass (see Day 3), that my climb to the Tiger’s Nest would end in disappointment. The downpour reconfirmed my travel rule that venturing out during rainy season is a bad idea (see Would You Travel During the Rainy Season?).

Breakfast

In order to make the trek, I needed sustenance. I ordered a masala omelet that had flavor compared to most hotel/planned meals I ate at hotels this trip.

Tigers Nest Bhutan Tips

Drive

The drive from the hotel is twenty minutes. I treated this trek like a 5k race (see Puerto Rico Turkey Run: TPOL Wins, Then Trolls) and had plenty of water along the way.

Bathroom

Upon arriving, there was one last opportunity to use the toilet. There’s a charge for it like there was when I went to the Salt Flats in Bolivia (see Salt Flats, Bolivia: The Definitive Guide to Going). This time I paid.

a man sitting on a chair outside a restroom

First Half

We began the trek around 7:30AM. At that time, it was very foggy and wet. At that point, I wasn’t fixated on the weather.

a group of colorful flags on a rope in the woods

a stream running through a forest

Like the Alaska Marathon, I was very excited and started running up the path. My energy was well and my breathing, in spite of a starting altitude of 10,000 feet, was excellent. A few minutes into the trek, I began to feel the after-effects of the chili from the night before (see Day 4) and the masala omelet from the morning. Instantly, I regretted my food choices and began to helplessly and hopelessly dream up solutions. To paraphrase Costanza, I wonder how I could “extricate myself from the proceedings and relieve this unstoppable force.”

TPOL’S Tigers Nest Bhutan TIPS: Pay for the bathroom and use it to its fullest extent before trekking.

Like the Athens Marathon, I tried to stay mentally strong despite my dire situation. The discomfort would pass and I would resume running. Going faster cut down the time to the halfway point but that proved counterproductive. Much like trying to drive fast when you’re almost out of gas, no joke intended, this strategy only made matters worse.

Having left my guide behind, I didn’t know the best route to take or if I was going the right way.

TPOL’s TIP: Follow the dogs, they know the way.

At one point, I was confused. I found myself going up a steep hill on all fours. That probably wasn’t correct but I managed to crawl back to the path.

Halfway Point

After a half-hour, I reached the midpoint.

a screenshot of a phone

a screenshot of a phone

a screenshot of a running app

Trainspotting flashed through my head as I gingerly went to use the facilities. There was no charge but I would’ve paid the toll nonetheless.

Happiness

a toilet and sink outside of a cabin

I found happiness. And that’s all I have to say about that.

Second half

From the cafeteria, trekkers are supposed to be able to see the Tiger’s Nest. With the impenetrable fog, I couldn’t see anything. Light on my feet, I was more focused on the climb than if the sky would clear. Suddenly, the sun came out, and between the trees I was able to catch a glimpse of Tiger’s Nest. Energized, I began to sprint to the temple.

a group of trees with moss from them

I stopped my Garmin tracker when the trail ended and the stairs began.

a screenshot of a phone

a screenshot of a phone

a screenshot of a running app

By that time, the fog was thicker than ever and my joy turned into despair as I couldn’t see anything. My guide sensed my anxiety and promised me that the sky would clear.

trees in the fog

a building on a cliff

TPOL’s TIP: The trek to Tiger’s Nest is not difficult. It took less than 1 hour to reach it (minus emergency).

The Tiger’s Nest Story

Don’t rely on me for the full story of the Tiger’s Nest, but from what I learned Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, flew to this perch on the back of a tiger. There’s also a cave that is only open one month a year. Only the distinguished monks can enter.

As we were completing our tour of the temples, as promised, the fog began to clear. Giddy, I asked my guide what the structure was even higher than the Tiger’s Nest. He made the mistake of asking if I wanted to climb up there. I said absolutely and he looked as distraught as I did when I thought the fog would ruin my adventure. Trying to discourage me or perhaps trying to save me from disappointment, he said it would be too foggy to see anything from that high. I insisted that we go. Heading there, I stopped at lookout points and took fantastic photos of the Tiger’s Nest.

a waterfall in a rocky area

a building on a cliff

a man standing on a ledge with a building on the side of it

a building on a cliff

a building on a cliff

a man standing on a ledge with a building in the background

a building in the forest

a man standing on a railing with a building in the background

Paro Taktsang on a cliff

Top

At the top, it was very foggy. Nonetheless, I was proud of the effort it took to reach this point. It was a much harder and much steeper ascent.

a trail with a metal railing on a rocky hillside

a screenshot of a device

a screenshot of a social media account

a screenshot of a running app

After catching my breath, we went to the ledge (see Beware of Selfie Death!) to see if we could see Tiger’s Nest. Here’s what I found:

a building on a cliff

a man standing on a cliff with a house on top of it

Pushing myself and pushing my guide to go beyond what most people do was well worth it.

TPOL’s TIP: Demand to go here!

Descent

On the way to the halfway point, I couldn’t help but sprint. It was runner’s high meet adventurer’s high. Earlier, I had accepted my fate that seeing Tiger’s Nest was not to be. I tried to rationalize that the view through the trees was sufficient because it made the place look mythical. Now, I had seen it all.

a building on a hill

a view of a valley and mountains from a hill

a small building on a hill with trees
The second summit on the left, the Tiger’s Nest lower on the right.

Lunch

For lunch, I had chili cheese, the food of choice in Bhutan, just not before a steep trek. I also took more photos of Tiger’s Nest, which came into clear view by the end of my meal.

a mountain with flowers and clouds

a plate of food on a table with a mountain in the background

a mountain with buildings on it

Descent to the Bottom

I didn’t run to the bottom. I took my time to relish in what I had just done. It was a victory lap.

One Last Photo

With the skies fully clear, I took a photo to capture how far we had climbed. None of this was remotely visible when we first set out.

a rocky mountain with trees and a cloudy sky
On the left was the higher peak, on the right is the Tiger’s Nest.

Last Last Photo

Driving away from Tiger’s Nest, I took my final photo. It is mind-boggling that humans built these temples here.

a group of houses on a hill with trees and mountains in the background
Look up, way up.

Overall

Traveling during rainy season is not recommended. It drastically increases the chances that mother nature will not cooperate. Having said that, the fog around the Tiger’s Nest made it look more magical than when it was completely clear. I am lucky that it worked out and I’m eternally happier for going all the way up.


Tigers Nest Bhutan Tips is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1 and Bhutan Day 2, Day 3, and Day 4.

Citi Business AA Application Nightmare

I have been trying for months to apply for the Citi Business AA card. It had a 70k bonus when meeting the spend requirement. I received a rejection letter reasoning that my credit was restricted. I called the application department and they said there was negative information on my prior business account. I called customer service to follow-up. Here’s what happened.

Two years ago I applied for the Citi Business AA card and was approved. I later found out that I was not eligible for the bonus. Instead of canceling the card, and risking having my eligibility resetting, I kept the card open but never used it. A year later the annual fee was due, but I did not receive an email or a paper invoice. Months after that I started receiving calls from Citi telling me to check my account. I kept logging into my personal account and saw nothing there. I called Citi and they confirmed I was current. It finally occurred to me that this could be the annual fee for my business account. I called Citi business who refunded my $95 and closed my account with no balance.

Despite this, my business account still shows negative information, and for some reason customer service and the credit department can’t straighten it out. The credit department keeps saying they can’t move forward until customer service sorts it out. Customer service says there’s nothing to sort out. Whenever I think I’m getting close to a resolution, I’m just transferred to another agent and the madness continues as I try to explain the story again.

a screen with a number of flights on it
I want my miles!

Applying for Credit Cards in Puerto Rico: Approved But Not Really

I thought moving to Puerto Rico would unlock more churn opportunities (see Looking to Churn? Move to Puerto Rico). It’s only unlocked more headaches. First, I applied for the Santander card and was approved only to never receive the card. They left a voicemail asking me to verify info. I called back and never could reach a banker. I applied for the Popular AA card. I was approved with an obscene credit line. I had to submit proof of income to an employee. I emailed her three times with no answer. I called and was transferred over and over. Usually, the calls ended up with me being transferred to the Miami branch and the agent telling me that they don’t offer AA cards. I would explain that I was a resident of Puerto Rico. Then I would be transferred again. Then the call would disconnect. Finally, I spoke to someone who said that it had been too long since my application and I would have to reapply again. Taking another hit on my credit was the last thing I wanted to do, but I did it anyway and applied over the phone. I was approved again. I sent my financial info again. Now, I wait. “Approved but not really,” continues.

Finding Penis (Happiness): Bhutan Day 4

Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 4 is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on Bhutan Day 1 and Bhutan Day 2, and Day 3.


Day 4 began with a great view of the Palace of Great Happiness from our hotel. Like travel in Thailand, I was templed out. However, unlike self-guided tours in Thailand, I was on a set itinerary (see Tour Guides: Like Attending Class, It’s Boring But Useful). Although I initially resist going to cultural sights because they aren’t as thrilling as whitewater rafting (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 3), I am glad that I go. I come away with greater knowledge and appreciation of the country I’m visiting.

a landscape with a river and buildings in the distance
The Palace of Great Happiness

Breakfast

Breakfast was decent but eating three times a day was beginning to show.

a man standing on a hill with a town in the background
If happiness is measured by kg…

Palace of Great Happiness

a river with a building and trees
The Palace sits in the middle of the male and female river.

The first king of Bhutan was crowned at this palace. Therefore, all significant events take place here.

Punakha Dzong next to a river

Punakha Dzong with trees and mountains in the background

a flag pole in front of a building

a white brick wall with a lion statue on the corner

The tree under which Buddha found enlightenment is in one of the courtyards.

a building with a courtyard and trees in the background

a tree in a courtyard

Like the other temples we visited, there are traditional paintings on the wall. The wheel of life (see Day 1) and the four friends are my two favorites.

a colorful painting of a circle with different symbols

a painting of an elephant and a man on a tree

Finally, there’s an area where only the king can enter.

a building with ornate windows

After taking photos from the outside, we headed off to my favorite temple, Chime Lhakhang.

Chime Lhakhang

Chime Lhakhang was built in tribute of Lam Drukpa Kuenley, the Divine madman, who “deliberately portrayed the image of a vagabond and wandered around the countryside, indulging in song and dance, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting.” Kuenley, a social critic, “taunted the hypocrisy of the established orders, including the monastic order.” “The use of his phallus as a ‘flaming thunderbolt’ weapon symbolizes the discomfort that society experiences when facing the truth.”

a sign with text on it

Phallus Marks the Spot

As far as the eye can see, there are phallus sculptures and paintings leading the way to the temple which his brother built in his honor.

a wall with a drawing of a condom

a blue and green statue

a stone structure with a small sign on it

a doorway with a yellow and blue banner

Minus the womanizing, this man reminds me of TPOL, who also doesn’t care for the opinion of others and is always looking for a good time and bottle of wine. It was only fitting after visiting the temple that I acquired a phallus for my personal collection. If you thought bargaining at the Fake Market or Tailor Market in Shanghai was tough, try bargaining over giant penises.

The first shop wanted 12,000BTN or $168 for one. The second wanted 8k ($112) which went down to 5k ($70). That’s a lot to pay for dick. At that point, I was ready to go home unsatisfied. As usual, the shopkeeper, who also was the penis engineer, dropped his price. He would sell two for 8k. I had my eye on two cocks and said I would pay 6k ($84). Outraged, he said no. Finally, we agreed to 7500 ($105) for two.

a group of colorful wooden toys
I bought the pink and blue from the back row.

TPOL’s TIP: Get your penis when you can. Had I waited until I went to Paro, home to the Tiger’s Nest (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 5), I would’ve paid more for just one phallus. Here, I knew the engineer had crafted the penis himself and I wasn’t getting a dud.

TPOL’S TIP: if you pay by credit card, the merchant will pass along the 3 to 3.5 percent foreign transaction fee that they are charged on to you.

Penis jokes aside, the phallus serves three functions. First, they shoo away bad evil and bring good luck. Second, they promote fertility. Finally, they protect the home from malicious gossiping, so good luck trying to talk shit in my comments section. I now have a phallus filter for that.

a wall with a painted wall and a group of statues
TPOL’s garden of penises.

Fully cocked, we drove to Paro. Again, we stopped at Dochula pass (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 3). Again, it was too foggy to get a view of the Himalayas, which was the only thing that didn’t work out on this trip.

a group of trees in the fog

Lunch in Thimphu

Lunch was bland. I don’t know what food they think tourists like because it is completely different from what Bhutanese people eat.

a table with bowls of food
We received this.
a basket of red peppers
I needed this. 

TPOL’s TIP: I wrote about this many times. Demand, kick and scream, and complain that you don’t want to eat at tourist restaurants. It’s a shame to miss the good Bhutanese food on account of guides not understanding your food tastes.

After lunch, we went on a tour which started with shots of arak, Bhutanese rice wine. The tradition is to dip your ring finger in the arak, swirl it around three times, and flick the alcohol in the air while chanting she, she, she.

a red and gold cylindrical container with two small bowls on a table

We learned about the five kings of Bhutan. The second most recent, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, became king at the age of 17 before relinquishing the throne to his son. He also invented the Global Happiness Index.

a framed picture on a stone wall

The culmination of the tour was trying my luck at archery. Unlike the archery I saw on Day 2, there was no one on the other side awaiting my stray arrows. It took a few tries to hit the target, but when I did the crowd came alive and we celebrated in dance.

a man and woman holding a bow and arrow

a man and woman shooting a wooden bow and arrow

a man holding a bow and arrow

a man and woman holding sticks

a man holding a bow and arrow

a man kneeling in front of a wooden building holding a sword

a white rectangle with a colorful circle and arrow in the middle of it

Chain Bridge

Our last stop before Paro was a chain bridge which was being renovated and was un-crossable. Still, look at the views:

a river running through a valley

a bridge with clothes on it

a river flowing through a valley with a bridge over it

a bridge over a river with a building and a bridge

a group of colorful flags on a wire

Hotel

The hotel for our final two nights, the Reema Hotel, was the most disappointing. It looked nice from the outside and had a good view, but it had no air conditioning and an uncomfortable bed. I did not sleep at all. The shower, on the other hand, was powerful.

a stone wall with a building and bushes

a tree next to a building

a close up of a door lock

a room with a table and chairs

a shower curtain and soap dispensers on a wall

Shopping in Paro

Paro is home to Bhutan’s most famed attraction, the Tiger’s Nest. As such, it is littered with souvenir shops eager to sell everything to doe-eyed tourists. I was one of those tourists. I became captivated with a green mask with stones. I figured I could get it for less than the price of a penis and began going store to store. The prices were unbelievable. One place wanted 55,000 ($772). The best price I could bargain was 20,000 ($282). I questioned how so many stores sell the same mask with the same stones and the same imperfections. If it were made by hand, wouldn’t there be variations?

a group of masks on a shelf

This seemed like a scam and reminded me of a news program that showed fake Bali being made in China by machine and sold to tourists as authentic. Without enough information, I made the smart decision not to buy (see Souvenir Shopping Kathmandu: Buy Your Mask Here!). I would’ve been angry to go home and have this mask on my wall laughing at me every day for overpaying. This experience reinforces what a great deal I received on the penises.

Dinner

I told my guides, again, no more hotel dinners. They listened and took me to a hole in the wall restaurant instead. It was exactly what I wanted. I ordered momo, fried and steamed, fried rice, and my new favorite dish, chili cheese.

a plate of fried dumplings

a plate of dumplings on a table

a bowl of rice with a spoon

a bowl of soup with a spoon

TPOL’s TIP: Chilli cheese comes in many varieties including with potatoes or beef. I prefer it plain. Momo is better steamed.

I also had more Bhutan Red Rice beer (see Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1). It is the Bhutanese Dunkel Weisse, TPOL’s favorite beer.

Overall

Day 4 was calmer than Day 3, minus the intense penis negotiations.

Guided Tours: Like Attending Class, It’s Boring But Sometimes Useful

Tour Guides is part of the ANA, Take Me ‘Round the World Trip Report. Catch up on all Bhutan posts here.


I hate tours for many reasons. First, I seldomly like the people in the group. There’s the one that asks to many questions. There’s the one that shows up late. There’s the one that is too slow getting on and off the bus or to and from the sites. By the end, we may become friends (see Salt Flats, Bolivia: The Definitive Guide to Going) but that is the exception. Second, I hate tours because the guides take me to tourist traps. Why do I care to go to a limoncello factory (see Amalfi Coast: A Beautiful Tourist Trap)? Why do I want to stop at a silk factory? I just want to see the sites and go back to my hotel. Third, I can’t pay attention. I usually last three minutes before my mind starts wandering. Whether it was in college, law school, or business school, I skipped more classes than I attended. It may have been easier to learn by going to class and taking notes but, against my own interests, I waited until the night before to master calculus (see how that turned out by buying my book).

Despite my contempt for tours, they do serve a purpose. Had I not had handlers in Bhutan, I would have taken a photo of the fortresses and moved on to the next attraction not knowing or caring what I missed. Having learned about Buddhism, the significance of the paintings, and more about the Bhutanese culture, I was able to better appreciate what I was seeing.

This doesn’t mean that I will hire guides in the future. Like attending class, I will only have a guide when it is compulsory. The rest of the time I will stick to speed tourism whereby I take a photo, move on, and read about it on Wikipedia before writing a blog post where I purport to be an expert on the subject. Or I utilize my other approach which I have called ‘innovative tourism’. That’s where I make up a story about what I am seeing and tell anyone that will listen. Either approach beats being swindled by opportunistic locals (see “You’re a Bad Tourist.” Words From Luxor Tour Guide).

a wall with a painted wall and a group of statues
There are many stories I could tell you about TPOL’s garden of penises.