I wrote how similar Cabo Verde is to Puerto Rico (see Cabo Verde: Puerto Rico’s Fraternal Twin). In that post, I wrote, “The food in Puerto Rico is a tragedy. Everything is fried. The food in CV is the opposite. It’s all fresh and it’s not overpriced.” Adding to the tragedy is the unavailability of pho in PR. This is not the case in CV where I found a delicious, authentic bowl of Hanoi pho.
TPOL’s Tip: Pho Hanoi is located at 104 Rua Patrice Lumumba Santa Maria Sal CV, Santa Maria, Cape Verde.
I was too busy on my Still The Best Trip to post in September. I was gone for so long that a reader wrote, “I am in TPOL withdrawal! Will he return?.” Well, I’m back, for now (see TPOL’s Back!). Here is the best from September:
Upon checking in, I was told that inter-island flights fill up quickly and are unreliable when they are available. I was also told that the ferry is a nightmare, is unpredictable, uncomfortable, and can take a whole day. My heart sank.
Would you pay 70,000 Hilton points a night or $150 a night? In the old days, the top-end Hiltons went for 50k points a night (see The Conrad Maldives: Heaven Can Wait). Stuck in the past and wanting to save my points for a better booking, I did the unthinkable and paid cash for my 4-night stay at the Hilton Sal.
Following my Punxsutawney TPOL Trip, I no longer book open-ended itineraries (see Punxsutawney TPOL: Travel Lessons “Don’t Book Open-Ended Itineraries: It is too stressful and too time-consuming to figure out where I am going next and how I am getting home.”). I also book all flights between countries in advance. Here, you may have noticed the open jaw segment between SID and RAI. The flight time from Sal, Cabo Verde (SID) and Praia, Cabo Verde (RAI) is 45 minutes. I didn’t book it in advance because 1) There wasn’t a points option. 2) I figured it would be easy to jump on an island hopper to catch my Royal Air Maroc flight to Nice by way of Casablanca. I was wrong.
Lounging at the pool at the Ritz CarltonTenerife (see Ritz Carlton Tenerife: We’ll Make It Better, The Second Time Around) on the day of my flight to Cabo Verde, I started looking for a flight to Praia. I kept receiving errors. Unconcerned, I decided to wait until I arrived in Sal to sort out this minor logistical challenge. I thought, worst case, I could take a ferry from Sal to Praia.
I arrived at the Hilton Cabo Verde late Friday night, August 18th, 2023 (see Hilton Cabo Verde: Perfect, Peaceful Stay). Upon checking in, I was told that inter-island flights fill up quickly and are unreliable when they are available. I was also told that the ferry is a nightmare, is unpredictable, uncomfortable, and can take a whole day. My heart sank.
Googling Bestfly Cabo Verde, the local airline, I found this:
Due to operational limitations, one of our aircraft is currently inoperative. In this context, we are still completing flights scheduled for 18AUG , which suffered significant delays. These delays stem from the need to operate primarily at airports without lighting before sunset and the unforeseen event of an emergency evacuation that took place last night.
As for the flights planned for 19AUG , they haven’t started yet and, unfortunately, we will have to cancel some connections to islands with restrictions related to sunset, such as Fogo and Maio.
We ask that you check the exact time of your flight on our website before heading to the airport. Times for 19AUG are being updated.
Checking the flight schedule, there were no flights available that would arrive in time to make my connection which was departing RAI at 3:55 AM on August 22nd. Instead of enjoying a festive Friday night, I went to sleep wondering what I would do next. The whole night I had dreams about ferries and flight connections. At 7 AM, I woke up restless and agitated. I went back to the front desk to see if they could give me more information. Their best recommendation was to go to the airport and see if I could fly on standby either on the 21st or the 22nd. I was annoyed that this inconvenience was interfering with my vacation. The next half of the day was not spent lounging on the beautiful Sal beach (see Cabo Verde: Puerto Rico’s Fraternal Twin). It was spent refreshing Bestfly Cabo Verde’s website, hoping for a flight to open.
While eating lunch, I refreshed once again on my mobile phone. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw a flight for Monday. Frantic, I loaded my saved cc info, put in my 3-digit security pin, and hit ‘submit.’ It said ‘processing’ and it continued to say ‘processing.’ Then it timed out. Shortly thereafter, I received a notification that the transaction was declined. I hit refresh and, of course, all the flights were sold out.
TPOL’s Tip: Critical transactions should be done on a laptop, not on a phone.
TPOL’s Tip: Even on US carriers, I have noticed that saved cc numbers tend to be declined. It is a best practice to input the digits manually.
I was in Cabo Verde for 18 hours and was not having a good time. Instead of being held hostage by Bestfly Cabo Verde, I decided to take a different approach. I canceled my business class ticket on Royal Air Maroc and booked a flight direct from Sal to Lisbon, Portugal on Cabo Verde Airlines (see Rescued! Cabo Verde Airlines: Sal to Lisbon). Sure it was a four-hour flight in coach, but knowing I had a way off this beautiful island and only paying $260 provided me priceless peace of mind. I was finally able to enjoy wonderful Cabo Verbe (see Guns & Butter: Sal, Cabo Verde Travel Guide).
On paper, my itinerary did not change drastically. Instead of two nights in Nice, I would spend one in Lisbon and one in Nice. My plan was to spend one night in Lisbon and see my friend from Shanghai whom I had not seen in 13 years. Then I would fly to Nice on Lufthansa business bright and early to meet my other friend for a day of champagne beach debauchery. All of this was possible thanks to 20,000 Lifemiles and $67. If everything went according to plan, I would be back on schedule with minimal financial impact and a de minimis schedule disruption.
Consider the alternative: Flying to Lisbon and then to SID.
Given the choice, I would prefer not to fly a prop plane (see TPOL’s Worst Flight Experiences). But the chances of something happening on this short flight from Tenerife to Gran Canaria were low.
Welcome Aboard Binter, bwahahahah
After surviving that flight, I looked forward to the international Binter service from Gran Canaria to Sal. This flight was 2 hours and 35 minutes on a proper Embraer 195-E2.
Binter baby!
A snack was served along with dessert.
Overall
If you are looking for a convenient flight from Tenerife to Sal, Cabo Verde, for $435 this is it.
Any Priority Pass Lounge is better than no lounge. While I would not rate this lounge as gross (see Priority Pass Jakarta Lounge Review: Yuck), it’s not that much better than the one in Jakarta. Here’s the food:
The rice was edible, but the rest was suspect.
Focusing on the positives, there is an outdoor smokers’ lounge.
TPOL’s Guns & Butter Travel Guide is the best way to see as much as you can in as little time as possible. Here’s how it works: A trip is composed of two factors: Labor And Lazy. The opportunity cost (what is given up) for relaxing and being Lazy is gained by being adventurous in the form of Labor and vice versa. The guide includes inefficient activities i.e., tourist traps that should be avoided and aspirational activities that are worth doing but may be impossible to see given the constraints of time and resources.
TPOL’s rule is to stay a maximum of 3 nights but preferably two nights in any city. Four nights in Tenerife is an eternity. Here’s what I did and did not do.
The Abama golf course at the Ritz Carlton was beautiful. Still, I had no interest in paying 200 euros for a round, not including rentals. My idea of fun isn’t to overspend on golf under the hot sun while shooting over 100 alone.
Same damn setup in every tourist destination. Worth repeating again.
Ritz Carlton
Originally, I was supposed to stay at the Ritz for one night and then spend the rest of my time at Playa de Las Americas. After two nights with no AC and no quality of life, I returned to the Ritz. You should too (see Ritz Carlton Tenerife: We’ll Make It Better, The Second Time Around).
Neither the beach at the Ritz or Playa de Las Americas had impressive beaches. I assume the rest of the island does. Coming from Puerto Rico, I can’t be bothered to go chasing after clear waters.
Playa de las AmericasRitz Beach: Come on guys! Enough of the IG shit.
Since it was too hot and since I do not find golfing alone particularly enjoyable, I went with option 2.
At 8:57 PM, I called Abama Kabuki to see if they could still seat me for the tasting menu. They said yes so long as I could be ready in five minutes. At 9:02 PM I took the Mercedes shuttle bus to the restaurant.
As far as the food goes, I will let the photos do the talking. As far as the experience, I have to say that it is a memorable experience that I cherish. It’s like flying first on Emirates without leaving the ground. For a few hours, I feel like the chef is personally cooking for me. No detail is overlooked and each moment is to be savored. Talking to the waiters and the sommelier is as much a part of the experience as the food itself. I give my feedback and my assessment and it seems like the staff actually cares about my opinion. If I am being duped in the same way an exotic dancer makes her clients feel special, I appreciate the show nonetheless.
Unfortunately, the sampling and savoring had to come to an end. Fortunately, the sampling and savoring had to come to an end. All that was left was the bill and the ride home.
The next morning I woke wondering if $375 for sushi was worth it. Putting it that way, the answer is no. But when someone asks what did you do in Tenerife, I will say Michelin sushi at Abama Kabuki. Retelling that story makes it worth it.
TPOL’ Tip: Abama Kabuki is adjacent to the Ritz Carlton and is located at Calle María Zambrano, Carretera General, TF-47, 2, Km 9, 38687, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain
Why would you get on a plane for 4 hours, drop your bag at the hotel and hunt down a UK pub and stay there the whole time? Eat the same garbage pub food you eat at home? And drink the same beer you get at home? Watch football on the TV in a pub in Spain? What’s the point? If the UK weather was good, they’d stay home and get smashed.
Those are the words of a famous Scotsman when I told him I was going to Playa de Las Americas, Tenerife’s party spot.
While I can’t be bothered to question why people travel, I can say that my idea of a fun holiday is not to be surrounded by the same people from home, doing the same things I do at home. The lack of creativity or diversity made Playa de Las Americas bland. It was nothing but store after store of doner kebab followed by pub after pub. Between those were 24/7 supermarkets selling shot after shot. While it’s better than Corfu for the atmosphere, it’s not that much better (see Make Corfu Greek Again! How Tourism Ruined an Island). And despite my Iraqi heritage, I would take gyros over doner every time.
Same damn setup in every tourist destination.Same damn setup in every tourist destination. Worth repeating.Same damn setup in every tourist destination. Worth repeating again.
Accommodations
I have written many times about hostel vs. hotel (see Ayia Napa, Cyprus: Hotel vs. Hostel, Hostel v. Hotel v. Friend’s Home, Frontier Hotel Darwin: My Case for Hostels). Try as I might, I can’t bring myself to pay cash for non-brand hotels. $250 a night for a run-down hotel with no status is not appealing. Concurrently, paying $100 a night while I am gone for weeks on end isn’t a bargain. In Playa de las Americas, there weren’t any American brands i.e., no points options. Sorting by price and location, I booked a room for two nights at the Servatur Caribe for 85 euros a night. Imagine my shock when I checked in and found out there was no air conditioning. Imagine my annoyance when the 1 bedroom ‘suite’ only had Wi-Fi functioning in the living room. In fact, the Wi-Fi worked better at the pool than in the room.
I’m here for the Wi-Fi.
The AC issue and party issue do not go hand in hand. After drinking Guinness with my Irish mates and singing folk songs with my UK friends, the last thing I wanted to do was come back to a room with no AC and no ceiling fan. Two nights of night sweats and alcohol withdrawals were enough for me.
Oh goodness, no AC with GuinnessGaelic Corner
TPOL’s Tip: Gaelic Corner is actually worth visiting. It is located at Av. Rafael Puig Lluvina, 16, 38650 Arona, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain.
The Beach
Playa de what? There’s no beach here. Only rocks. But for my beach gym, I would have never gone.
Important to hydrate post gym
Hard Rock?
Desperately trying to ‘make party,’ I considered booking a room at the Hard Rock for $300 for my last night in Tenerife. I thought there might be a good pool party during the day and nice air conditioning at night. I jumped in a taxi which is cheaper than Uber (see Tenerife: Take a Taxi Over Uber) to see for myself. The hotel was nice but the vibe felt manufactured. The 20 euro ride each way saved me from the disappointment of trying to find something that was not meant to be.
Tandoori Nights
Tenerife might not have good nightlife, but it does have great Indian food. Since I gave up on the party scene, I did the next best thing. I feasted on Indian food. Vindaloo lamb, vegetable biryani, and a bottle of sauvignon blanc was better than any mix a DJ could put together.
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Av. Adeje 300, 38678 Adeje, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain.
Overall
I came to the Canary Islands because the name itself is endearing. I also came for the vanity of adding another ‘country’ to my list (see Is Hawaii a Country?). I thought that Playa de Las Americas was going to be a unique party place. It was not. But for the Ritz Carlton, I would say that Tenerife was underwhelming.
