There aren’t many direct international flights from Puerto Rico. My favorite one is Iberia to Madrid. I’ve flown it many times (seeĀ Una Vez Mas). Recently, Avianca started flying directly to Medellin. Remarkably, basic economy tickets can be purchased for as low as 7,000 LifeMile points. With an abundance of currencies that convert to LifeMiles, I figured it would be worth spending more for a business class flight. But, no matter what date I checked, I saw zero business class availability. How could this be, I wondered? Wondering did not provide a solution. Instead, I mustered up the courage and called AviancaĀ to find out. Lately, the customer service has been quite good (contrast Aviancaās LifeMiles Chat Sucks: Are You Surprised?). I learned there are no business class seats on flights from Puerto Rico, and there are no business class seats on flights from Medellin to Miami, the next stop on my birthday trip.
Ultimately, I spent 19,680 LifeMiles + $20 for a ticket that includes both a carry-on and checked-in bag. For a 2:40 minute flight, I can endure coach while saving my points.
I will be going to Colombia more often on this route.
TPOL’s Tip: According to OMAAT, Avianca will fly business again.
The first stop on the way to Mosul was Samarra, home to the most unique minaret in the world. The Great Mosque of Samarra was built in 848 but was destroyed following an invasion of Iraq in the 13th century, leaving the one-of-a-kind minaret as the main attraction. Before going to Samarra, I watched a YouTube video that made the trek to the top seem treacherous. I compliment the videographer for her skills but can assure you there is relatively no risk, minus selfie stupidity (see Beware of Selfie Death!).
After all the checkpoints, we arrived.It quickly turned into a photoshoot.
The ominous bird in the desert.Where the mosque used to be. Living on the edgeClassic Saddam poseHow’d I end up here?
Be careful going down#neverscaredPhoto of the day
TPOL’s Trivia: The US used the minaret as a sniper tower to fight ISIS.
TPOL’s Turbans: Looking to blend in while in Samarra, purchase your own Urban Turban.
Rooted in Iraq and conceived in London, IQ Khameleon is the smart sportswear brand that blends culture with functionality.
You thought I Quit Blogging? You were wrong. I was trying to improve blogging efficiency. I failed initially but it is now in the works. In the interim, I am back to doing it manually. Here are the brilliant posts from April.
It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday. I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts?
Just when I thought it couldnāt get any worse, the flight attendant came out with more vino and entertained my request for my fifth drink, a Jack and Coke Zero.
Do you want to test your patience? Do you want to try your luck at being cheeky with armed men? Then hop in your car and take a ride up from Baghdad to Mosul. I would not recommend the self-drive tour, though having a guide may be more invasive than insightful (see Driver Vs. Guide). Following the defeat of ISIS, Iraq has become increasingly safe. To keep peace in Baghdad, there are armed Humvees everywhere. To keep order in the country, there are checkpoints throughout Iraq. These checkpoints are administered by the Iraqi army, Iraqi police, local militias, and all groups in between.
BaghdadBaghdadI bought an Iraqi police uniform. But that’s for another post.There are billboards of Qasem Soleimani all over Baghdad especially in the Shiite-dominated south of Iraq. He was killed appropriately by the Trump administration while visiting Iraq in 2020. This billboard is a literal sign of Iran’s influence and infiltration of Iraq, a sovereign nation.
On the way to Samarra, we experienced checkpoint after checkpoint. Some went smoothly, some had friction. All this took place over a distance of 80 miles.
Checkpoint 1
Guard (in Arabic): Do you speak Arabic? Any issues with the driver?
I found this one interesting as he was concerned about my well-being.
Many were locked and loaded.Others were not.
Checkpoint 2
Guard (in Arabic): Passports.
It became apparent that I should always have my passport ready and proactively volunteer information. Like the TSA, it’s better to expect the questioning than be surprised when it happens (see Traveling While Arab? Pack Your Sense of Humor).
Can you imagine going down I-75 and seeing this Humvee? Safe or scary?
Checkpoint 3
My driver thought he could coast through this checkpoint. We were quickly stopped.
Guard (in Arabic): Why didn’t you say you are a tour guide? Where are you from?
Smart-Ass Tour Guide: Baghdad
Me (thinking): He obviously wants to know where Ms. TPOL and I are from.
As an expert at border crossings, I was not shocked when were pulled aside and questioned further. I lectured the cocky tour guide and said next time stick to the strategy from Checkpoint 2.
Not sure what’s over there and I didn’t want to find out.
Checkpoint 4: Passports must be surrendered before seeing the Great Mosque of Samarra (see Samarra). It’s always a comforting feeling to know that I can’t go anywhere.
Checkpoint 5: We got this far. They have our passports. We are waived through.
TPOL’s Tip: Use the toilet before checkpoints.
Overall
The guards, whoever they were and whoever they represented, were much nicer than US Customs and Immigration.
At the top of the Guns & Butter must-do list when visiting a country for the first time is to meet a relative for the first time.
Since I was born in the United States, I had never met my uncle. Trying to reconnect with my roots and learn more about my family’s experience in Iraq (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad), I arranged a Sally Jesse Raphael reunion. I was excited when he answered the call. I was ecstatic that he invited me to his home.
I was a bit nervous when I showed up because I did not know what to expect. After the usual pleasantries, we got right to it. He treated me like he had known me for years. Nothing was off-limits. I had never met this person, but he was quick-witted, knowledgeable, and refreshingly disagreeable. He shared some funny stories about my parents and my other relatives. We talked typical Arab gossip over Arab cookies, Arabic coffee, and, of course, chai.
For me, the debate of nature versus nurture is over. This stranger was no more and never was. Sit with us for a few seconds and you will know that he is my uncle and I am his nephew.
You still owe me dolma!
This was an awesome experience, one that cannot be replicated and one that I cannot put into words nor would I want to do so. This was also the conclusion of my time in Baghdad.
If it’s any time in Iraq, it’s chai time. Spent, I needed more caffeine. I went to the espresso place next to my hotel.
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Al Arasat St. No. 23 Al Risafa,Ā Baghdad. Be sure to allow extra time to get through the metal detectors and wand pat down.
The Iraq Museum
Like all Guns & Butter Trip Reports, there is always something I cannot do. In Baghdad, it was visiting the Iraqi National Museum. I overslept the first day when I was supposed to go and it was closed on Saturday which is atypical. While this was not as bad as not seeing King Tut in Cairo (see Guns & Butter: Cairo Travel Guide), it was irritating. My guide was more upset than I was.
Closed for business.
Karrada
From there, we went to Karrada, a district where many Christians live(d). It was unique to see a church and St. Raphael hospital in the heart of Baghdad. Was my sister born there I wondered?
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Karada Dakhl – near Abu Aklam gas station.
Bargaining
Visiting museums is my least favorite activity while traveling. As TPOL readers know, bargaining is the exact opposite (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!). This time I was in search of an Iraqi soccer jersey. Because the team has not been good in a long time, finding one anywhere in the city proved challenging. I finally located one and purchased it for 9000 dinar ($6.83). It was XXlL and fit me perfectly, leaving me to wonder what might have been.
#23 Alexander ‘the assassin’ Bachuwa
TPOL’s Trivia: Saddam’s son Udai used to torture players who did not perform well on the pitch. To counteract this barbaric practice, he would purchase Ferraris for those who did well.
The streets of Baghdad
Masgouf
A traditional Arabic dish is masgouf. It is made from river carp caught in the Tigris. The fish is a bottom feeder consuming anything it can to survive.
I do not advise sitting outside in the death heat.Would you eat a carp swimming around in here?
The preparation of the fish is something to behold.
I tried to eat the masgouf but psychologically I could not do it. I felt like I was onĀ Fear Factor.
I ate the onions and pickles.Ms. TPOL ate the rest.
The chef came by and asked if we would like to see how the bread was made. I was the first to jump away from the table and the nasty masgouf.
Just bread for me, thank you.
I did find something delicious at the restaurant. This was the best tubbalah I had in Iraq and most like grandma used to make.
I would have loved to try the eggplant.As an aside, I finally found Diet Pepsi, a rarity in Coke dominated Iraq.
TPOL’s Tip: Sinnara restaurant is located at 79VV+9WM, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq.
Overall
Day 3 was much more calm than the first two days.
Bonus Coverage
Day 3 was not over. I had one more encounter which made this day one I will never forget (see Baghdad, Iraq: Family Reunion).
Though I did stop by Times Square for New Year’s in 2021 (see Happy New Year! TPOLās NYC NYE Party Guide), I avoid it at all costs when I go to New York. The same is true about the markets that take over the city streets. In Baghdad, the markets pop up on Friday. It’s a literal zoo with all sorts of animals from snakes to birds being sold in one area to hundreds of people bargaining for useless junk. With hundreds of people jammed in close proximity, all I could think of was how as recently as 2016, the country was on edge as ISIS had held Mosul hostage and bomb attacks were not uncommon (see Dozens killed as bombs tear through packed markets). While Baghdad is safe, I would’ve fled the scene if I had been on my own. Instead, we spent the next few hours in the scorching heat pummeled by merchants peddling everything under the hot Iraqi sun.
I had a brief respite when I stopped for freshly squeezed OJ. The kind merchant didn’t bother charging me upon learning I was Iraqi American.
A quiet corridor.
From the jammed street markets, we went to the souk. It was unimpressive. All I saw was useless junk leaving me unable to test my bargaining skills (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!).
Bought Saddam currency when I was in Qatar in 2014. I don’t think it has gone up in value.
I did purchase one souvenir. I will display it at Bachuwa Law’s domestic headquarters, Rio Mar, Puerto Rico. Hopefully, it does not constitute the unauthorized practice of law.
Gift for my uncle.Space! Get me out of here.
Kubba Break
Before going to the famous Muttanabi Street, I saw a place selling a traditional Iraqi dish, kubba. I had to stop for a sample. Not as good as grandma’s, but it did bring back memories.
Muttanabi Street
Before my trip and in my quest to become a polyglot (see TPOL The Polyglot: A Better Way to Learn Multiple Languages), I learned how to ask, “ŁŁŁ Ų“Ų§Ų±ŁŲ¹ Ų§ŁŁ ŁŲŖŁŁŁŲØŁŁŲ,” which means, “where is Muttanabi Street?” Al-Muttanabi was a famous Iraqi poet and the street that bears his name still sells books, though some are of questionable quality.
Take note of the high top relaxed hair look. Every young man wore it proudly.
My hookah days are behind me, but I received enough second hand argheli smoke and cigarette smoke regardless. I also had one of many chai’s on my chai crawl troul of Baghdad. The lemon style had a kick to it.
By far the pretzel looking sugar things are the best.Healthy also available.Ice cream is better.
Architecture
Throughout Baghdad there is British-inspired architecture. Once upon a time, it was that beautiful. Now, it is a depressing sign of a city cemented in disrepair, if not despair.
Juice, Hookah, Cafe Repeat
On a semi-diet and without access to pubs, filling the time in Baghdad proved challenging. I found myself going from one cafe to another drinking chai and having freshly squeezed OJ. The option to smoke argheli was available. I kept asking myself if lung cancer and diabetes were better than cirrhosis of the liver.
If you’re wondering who that woman is on the wall, it is Umm Kulthum.
TPOL’s Trivia: Do you know Umm Kulthum is the most famous Arab singer of all time? Her story has a dark side, one based on propaganda. The government supported her marathon concerts as a way of distracting the masses from their actions and as a tool for promoting Arab nationalism.
TPOL’s TIP: Women are welcome in the argheli bar. No one gave Ms. TPOL or me weird looks when we joined a group of gentlemen at their table.
Al-Muttanabi Statue
Overlooking the Tigris is the Al-Muttanabi Statue. Next to that is a cafe for more chai.
Would you float the Tigris on a Friday afternoon?This guy did.Celebrating my Iraqi Bar Admittance
Our next step was the Abu Hanifa mosque. Security was very tight. So was the dress code. Ms. TPOL purchased an abaya to enter.
Who’s that lady? (Who’s that lady?) Beautiful lady (Who’s that lady?) Who’s that lady? (Who’s that lady?) Thatā real,ā real, real fineā lady (A beautiful lady)That beautiful lady (The beautiful lady)
Before going in, all phones and electronics are checked. This explains the lack of photos. Here is one before going in:
Modern Cafe
After that, it was back to another cafe. I substituted tea for espresso. The place, Fay, was more lively and younger in its demographic. For the first time, I saw a mixture of men and women. It felt like a normal coffee shop.
TPOL’s Tip: Fay’s Cafe is located atĀ Four StreetsŲ, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq
Saving Iraqi Culture
The marathon tour continued with photos in front of the Saving Iraqi Culture Monument. To me, it looked like a reminder of my Achilles injury.
The flag is a symbol of pride. I was back and forth between thinking this place is tragic and this place has hope.
Dinner
Instead of going for traditional Arabic food, we went to a pizza place that made Arabic favorites on flatbreads. It was very creative and delicious. Like the modern cafe, it was a positive sign of change.
TPOL’s TIP: I recommend the hummus with beef but the falafel was also nice.
TPOL’s Tip: Sin30 is located at Four Streets, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, 00964, Iraq.
Reflection
It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad). I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts?
Where would I be?
Overall
Day 2 was appropriately called Welcome to the Jungle. Chaos aside, day 2 in Baghdad turned out quite nice.
Getting There: Getting from and to JFK is a pain. While Uber is absurdly priced at over $100 (see JFK AirTrain: Why Mess with Uber to Manhattan?), the cheaper options aren’t convenient. To get to the Time New York, I took Airtrain to Jamaica Station to the LIRR to Penn Station and then the 1 train to 50th Street.
Entrance The hotel lobby is on the second floor. To get there, take the elevator from the main entrance. If you have any questions, use the antique phone.
Double Petite Room
I booked the cheapest room I could find. Here, it was the double petite room. Unfortunately, I was upgraded to a king deluxe so I cannot write about it. I asked the front desk what I would have received. He said a very cozy room with a double bed.
King Deluxe
These Hyatt boutique hotels are wonderful. The small quirks make them unique (see Grayson NYC: Stay for the Revival Bedding). At The Time New York, I liked the glass closet but can’t say I cared for the TV in the mirror. Functionally, it does not work well when the curtains aren’t drawn.
Bathroom
The pressure was better than the Grayson, but I have to wonder why there is the option to shower in scalding hot water.
Wine Hour
From 5-6PM there is a wine and cheese hour. The concept was cool but the Malbec was warm.
Overall I would stay here again but I am also curious to see what other Hyatt boutique hotels are like.
Times SquareStill the worst place to be in NYC.But convenient for work.
I was reluctant to go to Mama Pho NYC because I had a bad experience at another pho joint called Mama Pho (see Mama Pho Warsaw? More Like Mama Huhu). But since it was the closest result after Googling ‘pho near me,’ I gave it a chance.
According to runawayrice.com, star anise is a key pho spice. It adds a slightly bittersweet and licorice-like aroma and taste to pho broth. At Mama Pho, the chef must believe that star anise should be the dominant spice. It was all I could taste. While I love Sambuca, I don’t want an extra large bowl of it.
Grease
What rhymes with anise? The answer is grease. And that’s what this bowl was, a big bucket of grease.
Meat
The beef was dry and old. It looked like it had sat out for too long.
Onions
What lazy person cut these onions? Huge pieces everywhere in all shapes and sizes.
Summer Rolls
The summer rolls came out after the pho. I hoped that it would be a good dessert. It was not. Like the beef in the pho, the shrimp was stale.
Large Bowl
I always order a large bowl and I usually finish it. Here, I was given a medium bowl by mistake. That was fine with me because I had no intention of drinking the broth. Unfortunately, the employee realized he gave me the wrong size and brought me a supplemental bowl. Like when I was in Darwin, I didn’t want to be rude but I also didn’t want to eat it. Unlike Darwin, I didn’t send it back. I forced myself to have a few spoons before giving up.
