Guns & Butter: Marrakech Travel Guide

TPOL’s Guns & Butter Travel Guide is the best way to see as much as you can in as little time as possible. Here’s how it works: A trip is composed of two factors: Labor And Lazy. The opportunity cost (what is given up) for relaxing and being Lazy is gained by being adventurous in the form of Labor and vice versa. The guide includes inefficient activities i.e., tourist traps that should be avoided and aspirational activities that are worth doing but may be impossible to see given the constraints of time and resources. The Marrakech Morocco Travel Guide is part of the Round the Atlantic Trip Report.
Overrated! Overrated! That’s the word to describe Marrakech. I almost left after one day but decided to stick it out in order to write this extensive travel guide. Before I get into that, let me tell you why this city is nothing special. Most of it has to do with my bias for the Middle East. My parents are from Iraq and I grew up eating our style of Arabic food, speaking our version of Arabic, and enjoying our cultural traditions. When I go to countries like Morocco or Turkey, I find many similarities between Arabic culture and their cultures. This kinship leads me to expect the same flavors as I would in my parent’s home country. Obviously, this is never the case. The culture is foreign. The language is foreign. And the food, though similar, is also foreign. I find myself comparing how everything is done there to how we would do it: Our kebab is better. Our Arabic is easier to understand. Our people are more beautiful. This sort of competition is not exclusive to Middle East versus countries like Turkey or Morocco. The same comparisons take place among all countries within the Middle East. Ask five people from five countries in the Middle East who makes the best tabbouleh, and you’ll get five different answers. Ask the same question about who speaks the cleanest Arabic, and you will receive a variety of answers again. Ask anyone where the most beautiful people come from, and they’d be lying if they did not say Iraq. Our Arab superiority or inferiority complex, depending on who you ask, makes it hard for us not to compare everything and simply enjoy the moment. Having said that, I will try to be positive and point out what you should do if you visit Marrakech.

Medina 

Dubai is not the Middle East. It is fake. If you want to see what this region of the world was like before Arab Money, head to the Medina in Marrakech. Beyond the tourist trap restaurants, you will find a city where time has stood still. From detox at the juice bars, to getting lost in the souks, the best time I had in Morocco was in the Medina. a tall tower with a wall and many people around it with Koutoubia Mosque in the background Juice Bar (Must Do) I now have some idea why people come to Marrakech. It’s not for the food or the Wi-Fi. It’s to detox. After weeks of nonstop drinking, I needed a break from the toxins of alcohol. And nothing is a better cleanse than freshly squeezed fruit. I tried many combinations but my favorite was banana and plum. It goes for 10 dh ($1.05). The OJ is 4 dh ($.42) but make sure you get the freshly paroled variety as there is chatter that the premade one is watered down. I cannot tell you what separates one juice cart from the next. The square is lined with dozens of them with vendors quick to offer free samples and yell at anyone who appears to be thirsty/a tourist. My favorite juiceman had his own isolated stand away from juice row. He was a very serious man who never smiled, but always gave me a little bit extra each time I stopped by for a visit.
a man standing in front of a fruit stand
There’s always money in the banana stand! Visit my buddy at No 33.
Souk Shopping (Maybe) Walking around the souks is fun. Unlike the markets in Shanghai, I didn’t see anything that I wanted to buy and found the vendors to be less than patient with my fierce negotiation techniques. a large group of food in a market Getting Lost (Definitely) Much like a Vegas casino, the Medina, a city within a city, is a labyrinth built to keep people in. Many guidebooks (WikiTravel being my favorite) encourage travelers going to the Medina to download a map of the Medina. TPOL does not concur. Instead of playing it safe, I recommend wandering around from shop to shop, taking abrupt turns without tracking your location, all in an effort to end up lost. From that point, challenge yourself to find your way back to the square without asking for directions. a group of people walking down a brick alley at night Rooftop Restaurants (Skip) I ate at Zeitoun Cafe. It is a restaurant aimed at tourists, but I did not mind paying the premium for the view of the square and the peace of mind of not having to haggle with the street stall vendors for dinner on my first day of arrival. It was also enjoyable to watch the sun go down over the square from the safety of my perch while sipping a soothing cup of Moroccan mint tea. Of course, I have to add that couscous, Moroccan’s staple cuisine, pales in comparison to Iraqi yellow rice.
a bowl of food on a table
Couscous
Food Stalls (Must Do) Why wander around when you can head to the food stalls and eat everything for next to nothing. The web says that many tourists are ripped of at these stalls because they do not inquire about the price or are served and charged for appetizers that they did not order. I did not have that experience. I ate at a bunch of places and anytime there was a discrepancy, they would either take it off the bill or bring me more food. Be aware but don’t be too paranoid.
a hand pouring liquid onto a piece of animal bone on a plate
Lamb eyeball
a plate of food on a table
Lamb brain
a plate of food on a table
Mixed grill
Hamam (Depends) I skipped the hamam this time because I was with Ms. TPOL, and the baths are segregated by gender. If you can handle being apart from your lover, I highly suggest going to a hamam for a good scrub.

Party 

Morocco is not a dry country. There is alcohol and there are many clubs and bars. I only spent one night out in the Hivernage neighborhood. I tried to go to the pool party above Buddha Bar, but they were not serving alcohol because Ramadan was starting one week after the day I arrived. Hivernage (Must Do) Go to the Hivernage neighborhood of Marrakech. Instead of souks and snakes, there were normal restaurants, pubs, and nightclubs. Young people flock to this area to eat burgers, have drinks, and smoke argheli. It felt more like Dubai than a conservative country. Having had my fill of lamb tongue, I opted for a burger and pizza. After days of detox, I chose Budweiser over OJ. Needing some nicotine, it was time to smoke.
  • Cafe Extrablatt has great burgers for a reasonable price.
  • Arkech Sky Bar is open late. It serves food and alcohol.
a plate of food on a table two bottles of beer on a table A Note on Beer Flag Speciale is terrible. Stick to Casablanca. a can of beer next to glasses of beer

Golf 

What’s a trip without golf? Assoufid Golf Course  The course is in the middle of nowhere. The taxi driver couldn’t find the place. It cost $30 round trip to get to Assoufid, a highly rated golf course. ‎Once you enter the gates, it’s a different world from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. Bring your own balls as 6 of them cost me $25! a man swinging a golf club on a golf course a man standing on a golf course

Sleep

Chose a riad in the Medina over a chain hotel. Le Meridien was disappointing. Le Meridien (Skip) If you do stay at Le Meridien and end up in a standard room, demand a suite. The standard rooms are awful. The hotel will pretend that there are no upgrades but insist on moving. The pool made up for the deficiencies in the hotel. A few local brews and a nice sunset make everything better, as does a decent pizza. a living room with a couch and a coffee table a pool with palm trees and bushes two cans of beer on a pool side a pizza on a table next to a pool

Overall 

Despite my gripes, I had a fun time in Marrakech. I wouldn’t go back but maybe you would.

Le Meridien Marrakech: Dated Digs in Marrakech

Le Meridien Marrakech Hotel Review is part of the Round The Atlantic Trip Report.


Getting There: The taxi to the hotel is supposed to be 15-20 dinar on meter. The Internet says if you get it for 50 you’re fine. I got it easily for 30 by walking to the exit (sortie) of the car park which leads me to believe I could’ve done better. Getting Back: When you are headed back to the airport, head to the main street and hail a cab that is not officially endorsed by the hotel. That will save you money.
a car on the road
Old school Benz

My trip to Morocco started off rocky. After one night I made the executive decision to leave for Madrid. The hotel had no WiFi and the AC didn’t work. As a cloud lawyer, I don’t have time for hot rooms. The second day, the hotel upgraded us to a suite and that made all the difference. With the ability to conduct business, I began to enjoy my Marrakech routine. Each day started off with skipping breakfast, heading to the pool for beer, and then the night market for food. The Hotel Itself  Le Meridien is one of my favorite brands when I travel overseas. From Le Meridien Shanghai to the one in Chiang Rai, Bangkok, Kota Kinabalu, or my favorite, Le Meridien Pyramids, Le Meridiens do not disappoint. Unfortunately, I cannot say that of Le Meridien in Marrakech. The hotel is dated and lacks the level of comfort of the ones mentioned. If you’re going to go through the trouble of going to Morocco, you should stay at a local riad for a more authentic experience. a sign with palm trees and a flag a sign in front of a building a ceiling with a circular design a room with a large column and a couch a fountain in a garden a building with palm trees and bushes a brick path with bushes and trees The Suite  If you end up in a standard room, demand a suite. The standard rooms are awful. The hotel will pretend that there are no upgrades but insist on moving. a bed with a wood headboard and lamps a bed with a lamp and a balcony a living room with a couch and a coffee table a dining table with chairs in a room a mirror on a wall a tv on a stand a table and chairs in a room a bouquet of pink roses The Suite View The original room had a view of the mall. This one was much better. a group of palm trees and grass a pool with palm trees and blue chairs The Bathroom  Compared to the terrible motel shower in the first room, the bathroom in the suite was much nicer. a bathroom with a sink and bathtub a shower with a shower head a group of bottles of shampoo and gel on a counter a bathroom with a toilet and sink The Pool The pool made up for the deficiencies in the hotel. A few local brews and a nice sunset make everything better, as does a decent pizza. a pool with lounge chairs and umbrellas a pool with lounge chairs and umbrellas a pool with palm trees and a building a pizza on a table next to a pool a can of beer next to glasses of beer two cans of beer on a pool side a man in a white robe holding a drink in front of a pool a pool with palm trees and buildings in the background a pool with palm trees and buildings in the background The Breakfast  After overindulging in food at the night market, I never felt the need to eat breakfast. Still, blog readers get pretty upset when I skip it or when I complain about paying for it. So I went and I can say that it was not worth it. While the breakfast had a wide selection of food, it was not local food. Apart from the tea and juice bar, the food was bland. The quality of the photos are not representative of the quality of the food. a trays of pastries on a table a buffet with different types of food a row of bowls with different foods a tray with glasses and a teapot on it a table with different drinks on it a trays of food in a container a trays of food in a restaurant a bowl of food in a stove a plate of food on a table a plate of food and drinks a glass of liquid next to a glass of liquid The Service Everyday there was someone at the front desk complaining about their stay. I don’t blame them. This hotel is not up to the standard of SPG. Overall I wouldn’t stay here again.  

Golf in Marrakech: BYOB

The course is in the middle of nowhere. The taxi driver couldn’t find the place. It cost $30 round trip to get to Assoufid, a highly rated golf course. ‎Once you enter the gates, it’s a different world from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. a sign on a rock wall a bar with bottles of alcohol The price to play 9 holes was steep, $125 for two people. They charged an exorbitant $50 for the cart and club rentals. The biggest scam was $25 for 6 balls. I usually lose a dozen balls when I play so I was cautious with my drives. I believe this fear of losing my nuts led to a breakthrough. Although I shot a 51, I easily could’ve had my best round but for two holes because of this restrained approached. Indeed, I hit the pin twice on chips.

a pyramid of golf balls on a green field
I recommend stealing range balls for the course.
a black box inside a car
The $25 box of balls.Tour Special?
As far as the course goes, it was beautiful. The greens were pristine and the fairways were wide and forgiving. Hole 1:  On hole one, I shanked a shot right. It went to the right of the palm tree but magically hit the top of a hill and rolled right onto the green. Here’s how it went down. a man standing on a golf course a man swinging a golf club on a golf course a golf course with trees and sand bunkers
a man swinging a golf club on a golf course
Anger
a man on a golf course
Relief!
a golf course with a flag on the green The Course  Like the Phoenician Scottsdale, this course was beautiful. We spent a lot of time taking photos instead of focusing on the next shot. a man swinging a golf club on a golf course a person on a golf course a person on a golf course a man on a golf course a large green field with trees and buildings in the background a man on a golf course a person standing in a golf cart a man standing on a golf course a man standing on a golf course a man swinging a golf club on a golf course a golf course with palm trees a golf scorecard on a bag It’s definitely worth golfing in Marrakech but BYOB. Bring your own balls.

Hivernage, The Other Side of Marrakech

I’ve covered in great detail what there is to see and do in the Medina in Marrakech (juice, eat like a tourist, eat like a local, get lost). After a few nights in that zoo, I reached my quota for craziness and wanted peace and calm. Enter in the Hivernage neighborhood of Marrakech. Instead of souks and snakes, there were normal restaurants, pubs, and nightclubs. Young people flock to this area to eat burgers, have drinks, and smoke argheli. It felt more like Dubai than a conservative country. Having had my fill of lamb tongue, I opted for a burger and pizza. After days of detox, I chose Budweiser over OJ. Needing some nicotine, it was time to smoke.

a sidewalk with palm trees and a fountain
Hivernage
a plate of food on a table a plate of food on a table a two glasses of coffee with whipped cream on a table
a building with lights on the side
Arkech Rooftop Argheli Bar
a man standing in front of a wall with text
Model in Marrakech
two bottles of beer on a table a table with a metal bowl and two bottles of beer a group of beer bottles on a table TPOL’s Tips:

  • Cafe extrablatt has great burgers for a reasonable price.
  • Arkech Sky Bar is open late. It serves food and alcohol.
 

Complaint Of The Week: ITA Matrix Default Currency

There’s nothing better than searching for flights using ITA Matrix. This is especially true if you spend summers golfing in Montana and need to query 5 airports to get from here to New York. My complaint about the software is how the currency is set to the default currency of the sales city. I often forget to put USD and end up with something like this: a screenshot of a search engine Oh it’s only TZS340,060 to go from Zanzibar to Nairobi? That’s a good deal. Actually, I have no idea what the conversion is, so I have to go back and correct the currency.

a calendar with numbers and a number of dollars
$145. That’s much better.
Why isn’t it set to USD by default or by where I physically am? Why doesn’t it remember my last choice? And that’s my complaint of the week. On a side note, my ridiculous trip to South America and Africa is coming up where I go (mostly in business) to Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya (just added), and South Africa for 95k Delta SkyKyat and 105k United miles. TPOL’s back!  

Hacks, Collusion, TPOL Out Of Crisis

I think it’s safe to come out and blog again. The site has been under fire by hackers for over a month now. If you were redirected to a pop up site, then you too were a victim. Thanks to BA’s team, the site is now secure and I can disseminate my gospel of points to all that will listen. I saw the same hack in my TPOL Vote Where I Live poll and nobody believed me. Normal blogging now resumes with the conclusion of my time in Morocco.

a golf course with a flag on the green
Spent my time golfing while this was being sorted out.

Medina, Marrakech: The Definitive Guide To Lamb Brain, Tongue, Eyeballs & More Food

After initially wanting to leave Morocco but then deciding to stay, I finally got into a rhythm in Marrakech. Centered around my decision to stay was desire to try every food and drink available. I already wrote about The Detox Juice Bars and the pricey couscous restaurant. Now it was time to focus on the food stalls which are centered in the heart of the Medina and are also on the way to and from getting lost in the Medina Labyrinth.

Street Food Take 1

The Sweet Shop  I stopped at many food stalls while wandering aimlessly. My first stop was a sweet shop which sold all sorts of sugary treats. a group of bags of food a kitchen with many pastries a bowl of food on a plate a plate of brown food a man handing food to another man The Famous Juice Bar  Continuing on the main artery road from the center to the souks, I found a juice bar which had a line of people fighting for a layered juice drink. (Read the complete story here.) a man standing behind a counter with many glasses of liquid a group of people standing in a crowd Express Sandwich Shop  Right next to the famous juice bar in the post above is a row of restaurants serving beef (kufta) with bread. Ordering is difficult because they don’t understand my Arabic, and I certainly do not understand theirs. The easiest thing is to point and present your coins. a group of men standing at a counter a plate of food on a table a plate of food and a bread on a table a man sitting at a table with food on it Then I Got Lost  a man walking down a narrow alley at night Found, It Was Sandwich Time  a man standing in front of a food stand a man handing food to another man One More Juice  Exhausted, it was time to go back to the center for a juice. a man standing in front of a fruit stand

Street Food Take 2

Buyer Beware, Sort Of  Why wander around when you can head to the food stalls and eat everything for next to nothing. The web says that many tourists are ripped of at these stalls because they do not inquire about the price or are served and charged for appetizers that they did not order. I did not have that experience. I ate a bunch of places and anytime there was a discrepancy, they would either take it off the bill or bring me more food. Be aware but don’t be too paranoid.
two men standing under a tent
Me and cousin joking about the bill.
Soup  The first must is a cup of harira soup which may be my favorite soup in the world apart from pho and tom yum. At a cost of 3 dinars (30 cents), you can’t go wrong. I tried the other soup but it was not as good.
a bowl of soup with a spoon
Harira
a bowl of soup with a spoon
Unknown
a group of people eating at a table Mixed Grill  Don’t fill up on too much soup or you won’t have room for the mixed grill. I skipped the couscous this time, but it is worth noting how much cheaper it is than at the Tourist Restaurant. I recommend focusing on lamb and beef, avoiding the chicken, and asking for extra mixed vegetables. a group of men standing around a table with food a green menu with black texta variety of meat on skewers a table full of food a group of men in a market a group of men standing behind a table of food a man eating at a table with food on it a plate of food on a table a plate of skewers of meat and vegetables a man eating food at a table a table with plates and forks on it All this food cost 140 dinar or around $15. The Mint Tea  Moroccan mint tea deserves its own section. Moroccans know how to make tea. There should be no charge for it, so have a few cups but be aware of the sugar. a glass with a plant in it The Lamb  This is what I came for. During holidays, my family serves lamb and it is always a battle to see who gets to devour the tongue. I asked the waiter for ‘noos ross’ (half a head) of lamb and was quoted 40 dinar (~$4).
a hand pouring liquid onto a piece of animal bone on a plate
The eyeball
a group of people around a table with food a man in a white coat cooking food a plate of food on a counter a man eating food at a table a man eating food at a table a hand holding food on a plate a close up of a skull

Street Food Take 3

After two days in the Medina, I was an expert at what to order and like the previous days, I never received a shockingly high bill. Again, I focused on the soup, mixed grill, and lamb. This time I bravely ate the tongue, the brain, and the eyeball. Delicious!
a bowl of soup with a spoon
Harira
a group of meat on a table
Full ross this time
a man pouring soup into a bowl
And whatever this lamb dish is, it was delicious.
a man standing in front of a large pot of food a large metal bowl with food on it a plate of food on a tablea group of soda bottles and bread on a table a man eating food at a table
a plate of food on a table
Lamb brain, not as good as tongue
a plate of food on a table
Lamb tongue
a man smiling at camera a group of people sitting at a table with food a large display of food a plate of food on a table
a plate of ribs on a red and white polka dot plate
The lamb was the best
a group of men standing in front of a table with food
Going to order more
a man eating meat at a table
a table with plates and forks on it
Finished!
Last Call for Juice  I do not believe that they serve alcohol in the Medina which is fine because there’s always room for a nice juice before passing out from too much food. a fruit stand with lights and a man standing behind it Overall  It doesn’t get any more authentic than eating at the food stalls in the Medina. At first, I was overwhelmed by the hawkers begging me to come to their stall. In the end, I was overwhelmed by the amount of food I ate.

Simply The Best: July 2017

At the end of July and through August, TPOL was the victim of malware. That was inconvenient and annoying for everyone. Regardless, here were the best posts from the month of July.

  1. Guns & Butter: Marseille Travel Guide
    two glasses of champagne and cigar on a table
    Bienvenue a Marseille, a city overlooked by many. After a short stay in Paris, I came here to celebrate my all important 35th birthday. There was plenty to do and with only two nights, not enough time to do it.
  2. Medina, Marrakech: The Detox Juice Bar
    a fruit stand with oranges and water bottles
    I now have some idea why people come here. It’s not for the food or the Wi-Fi. It’s to detox. After weeks of nonstop drinking, I needed a break from the toxins of alcohol. And nothing is a better cleanse than freshly squeezed fruit.
  3. Getting to Centurion LAS: The Long, Long Journey
    a bar with a television and bottles of alcohol
    Are you a poor peasant who flew Allegiant to LAS? Do you want to hit the Centurion Lounge before a night and early morning out on the Strip? Here are the directions (in pictures) for getting from Concourse A to Concourse D, home of the lounge.
  4. What’s Hot in Vegas: Summer 2017 Edition
    a pool with palm trees and a building in the background
    Vegas is the worst city in the world, yet somehow I end up there at least once a year. Last year I went for NBA Summer League and for my interview with Richard Quest for CNN Business Traveller. This year I once again returned for NBA Summer League. I went Monday-Friday, ideal times to avoid amateur hour and overpriced everything. Here’s a list of what to do and where to stay based on my last trip.
  5. Amex Benz Platinum Retention Call Success!
    a group of beer bottles on a counter
    I am happy I have at least one more year of Platinum goodness.
  6. Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge LGA: Sad!
    a rooftop of a building with a blue sky and clouds
    The Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge, despite its dignified name is a sad lounge.
  7. How I Almost Left Marrakech After One Night 
    a close up of a drink
    Sorry, Marrakech may be the new hot spot for tourists, but it isn’t for me. After only a night here, I made the executive decision to leave.
     
 

Medina, Marrakech: Lost in the Labyrinth

Much like a Vegas casino, the Medina, a city within a city, is a labyrinth built to keep people in. Many guidebooks (WikiTravel being my favorite) encourage travelers going to the Medina to download a map of the Medina. TPOL does not concur. Instead of playing it safe, I recommend wandering around from shop to shop, taking abrupt turns without tracking your location, all in an effort to end up lost. From that point, challenge yourself to find your way back to the square without asking for directions. a large crowd of people in a square with tents and tents people in a market a group of people in a market a scooter and a cage with chickens in it a large group of different colored nuts a large group of food in a market a man and cat in a narrow alley a crowd of people in a street a crowd of people in a street a person walking in a tunnel When that gets old, ask one of the children to show you the way back. Of course, they will demand a lot of money after the fact for doing so. I gave them a few dinar and they started complaining. I gave them a few American coins and they were happy as can be.  a group of people walking down a brick alley at night a tall tower with a tower on top and a stone wall with a stone wall and a stone wall with a stone wall and a stone wall with a tower on top

Aloft Manhattan Downtown: Happy Hours

The Aloft Manhattan Downtown Hotel Review is a continuation of the TPOL in NYC Trip Report.


With the DOW hitting record highs day after day, The Street is in need of a place to celebrate. If you’re a banker or just a lawyer in town on business, consider staying at the Aloft Manhattan Downtown where happy hour lasts late into the night. a building with a sign on the side I needed one more night to requalify for platinum. Although it was more expensive than the Four Points Long Island City, I chose the Aloft Wall Street to ring in this accomplishment. The Aloft Wall Street is a happening place for a part of town that goes dead after the closing bell. The Lobby Ambiance is aplenty in the Aloft Downtown. a room with a glass door and a television a elevator with a light on the wall a painting of a man wearing sunglasses a reception desk with a colorful light fixture The Location  The hotel is conveniently within walking distance to New York‎ Small Claims Court, the reason for Bachuwa Law’s visit and consequently TPOL’s visit to the Big Apple (see my guide on Frequent Miler for the small claims process). It is also walking distance to the NYSE and other FiDi attractions.
a group of people in a hallway
Small Claims hell
The Room The room is small by Aloft standards but adequate for New York standards. It still has the fun pillows and comfortable bed. Add in a powerful air conditioner and I slept like a baby. a bed with pillows on it a bed with pillows and a picture of a face on it a blurry picture of a colorful wall a bed with pillows and a picture of numbers on it a bed with pillows on it a view of a city from a window The Bathroom And Amenities Aloft soap. Aloft coffee. Aloft shower. All good on that front. a tray of coffee and a water bottle on a table a bathroom sink with a mirror and a few sinks a shower with soap dispensers and a shower head The Bar The best part of the Aloft Wall Street is the WXYZ bar. Unlike most WXYZ bars (see Aloft Abu Dhabi), this one had cocktails worth drinking. I especially enjoyed the Don Julio concoction. Also, unlike most WXYZ bars, this one had a decent crowd of locals coming by after work.
a brick building with lights
aloft manhattan downtown hotel review
a sign on a ledge a group of people sitting at a bar a glass with liquid and straws a room with a couch and a lamp a room with lights from the ceiling a room with a brick wall and a table and chairs Overall If your NY travel requires you to be in FiDi I would recommend staying at the Aloft Wall Street. It has more atmosphere than the Four Points Downtown and is a kinder price than the Andaz.