Do you know the best place in Barcelona? It’s Can Paixano (see The Best Place on Earth). Do you know the best place in Lisbon? It’s an ‘Irish’ bar and restaurant called O Trevo.
Walking near my apartment (see Blueground Does it Again: Lisbon), I heard the shouts of angry men. I had to go in and check it out.
Here’s what I found:
I went inside this obscenely brightly lit place and encountered people from all over the world. It reminded me of my favorite places in Granada, Spain (see The Joy of Tapas). Before placing an order at the stand up coffee bar, I needed to ascertain if I could pay by card. It felt like a place that was cash only. My suspicions were proven correct when I looked up, down, and all around. In Portuguese, in English, and in pictures, the sign said: CASH ONLY.
Desperate to get in on the fun, I went to an ATM. Unfortunately, it was out of service. I went to look for another but was distracted by a ‘real’ Irish Pub along the way (see Arriving Lisbon: First Tipsy Thoughts). By the time I returned to the establishment, it was closed.
TPOL’s Tip: Had I only been in Lisbon for one night, I would have gone straight to the ATM. One never knows when such opportunities will present themselves (see El Doble: Happiest Hour in Madrid. And There’s Fresh Seafood).
With 45 nights in Lisbon, I knew I could come back the next day and the day after that. And so I did.
TPOL’s Tip: O Trevo is closed for two weeks in mid August for the holidays. Fortunately, I was able to go before and will be here when it opens again.
I can say that the bifana sandwich is spectacular, especially with the chilli sauce.
TPOL’s Tip: They offer it in pork or beef. Pork is much better
And the wine by the glass is poured as a bottle by the glass.
I can also say that the price is too good to be true, forcing me to reevaluate how I spend my money (see Tap to Pay? Sorry, Cash Only for Me).
But, the real reason, apart from the perfect espresso to come here, is the workers.
There’s typically four of them. The shy kid is in the corner. He’s in charge of making the sandwich. The old man is in charge of the drinks. The younger guy is in charge of taking orders. The short guy, I’m not so sure what he does, but every few minutes, he goes outside, yells something, and then comes back in. Collectively, minus the kid in the corner, they are all in charge of making everyone feel equally welcome and simultaneously unwelcome.
Beer is poured from the draft abruptly. Change is thrown on the table loudly. And food is dropped on the counter without the loving touch of a Portuguese grandmother. But before anyone leaves, there’s a somewhat genuine ‘thank you, come again’ in a mixture of multiple languages.
Having gone there many times, I dare not try to befriend the staff. For one, I doubt they want to become my friend. For two, it would ruin the experience.
TPOL’s Tip: For a more tranquilo experience, take your food and drink outside and watch the people go by.
TPOL’s Tip: O Trevo is located at Praça Luís de Camões 48, 1200-283 Lisboa
Are you hungry yet?
How about now?
