When I wrote TPOL Now Living in Madrid!, I did not think that my real-time Madrid posts would be so Food & Drink focused. But besides sex and drugs and house, what else is there in life? #devil #acapulco #palladium
Today’s installment of TPOL’s Tastes comes from a fun restaurant called Torijrio, located in my Chamberí neighborhood, an area that I see no reason to leave. From the outside, I thought I was going to a Japanese restaurant. From the mural on the wall, I thought I was in Hong Kong. From Tsingtao beer, I thought I was in Shanghai. It only occurred to me that I was in Europe when I received the bill for $50.
Japanese?Japanese sign, Chinese sign, and Hong Kong muralHong Kong Dim Sum and Shanghai dumplingsJapanese ramenWhatever it’s called, it’s Japanese and it’s delicious
In terms of language, it was fun trying to decipher the Spanish words for Asian foods. It was also fun to speak a combination of Mandarin and Spanish to the Chinese-Spanish workers. Ultimately, pointing at pictures on the menu worked best.
Translation in English: sex and drugs and houseTranslation in Spanish: delicioso
TPOL’s Tip: Torijiro is located at Calle de Fernández de la Hoz, 70, 28003 Madrid
It has been since May 2022 that I had a bowl of pho (see Pho-usion in Estonia) unless you count instant pho in Puerto Rico (see En Casa Costco Pho Review). I had no expectations of the pho in Madrid but hoped that in this international city I would not be disappointed. Unfortunately, Vietnam Express did not deliver. Here’s why:
Spring Rolls
10.60 euros for 2 spring rolls? That’s insanely expensive. Unless it’s a caviar roll, what justifies the price?
Pho Bo
I only like pho tai, pho with thinly cut sirloin served rare in the bowl, that cooks as I mix in the right combination of jalapenos, sprouts, sriracha, lime, and hoison. If a restaurant does not have pho tai listed on the menu, I know to move on (see Pho Edinburgh: Disappointing Adventure). Laziness is the reason I broke this rule. Vietnam Express is a two-minute walk from my apartment. What if the best pho is right outside my door? Surely, I should give it a try.
Bowl
For 10.50 euros, strangely cheaper than the spring rolls, I received the tiniest bowl.
Broth
There were no jalapenos nor hoison. The sprouts were the weird looking ones, and the lime lacked zest. In Hanoi, not being offered these accessories is normal. What is abnormal is a lukewarm broth. That is inexcusable. No wonder the beef is cooked ahead of time.
Flavor
It did not taste bad, but it was more soup than pho. Of course, I still ate it but take note that I did not finish it off as is inevitable with a great bowl.
Yesterday, I compared a Scottsdale institution, City Hall, to a landmark in Madrid Ten Con Ten (see Ten Con Ten Madrid vs. City Hall Scottsdale). Today, I’ll compare Junk Burger Madrid to Shake Shack Scottsdale, though the comparison is applicable to all franchise locations.
What They Have in Common
No Tipping: I’ll start this post the same way I started my Shake Shack review by applauding that I do not have to tip at either place. Shake Shack eliminated tipping in its restaurants and tipping in Europe is not common. As an anti-tipper, I love this.
Price: Neither of these places is cheap. In 2018, a specialty burger at Shake Shack was $9.59. In 2023, a specialty burger was between 13 and 14 euros.
The Fries: When I wrote the review for Shake Shack, I had not sampled the fries. A reader wrote, “Didn’t try the fries? The fries make the meal.” I went back and tried. They did not. At Junk Burger, I tried both the regular fries and the Cajun fries. They were nothing special, especially for 3.4 euros each.
What Is Different: The Burger!
Shake Shack’s burger is marginal at best. Junk Burger’s is the exact opposite. It is a hypnotic trance of meat cheese and secret sauce. Despite the steep price, one burger was not enough. While I enjoyed the Timeless, I highly recommend the Lady Cheese. Both were juicy and cooked to perfection. Neither were tiny. Contrast this with Shake Shack whose burger looks like a slider.
The TimelessLady Cheese
Back to Price
At Junk Burger, 2 burgers, 2 fries, 2 cokes, and 1 beer was $50. I assume that is roughly the same price at Shake Shack. Who can afford or rationalize this price for fine dining? Tip or no tip, that is not sustainable.
Coke & a smile before the bill
Overall
Junk Burger claims to be the best burger in Madrid. I’ll take it a step further and say it goes beyond that.
TPOL’s TIP: Junk Burger is located at Calle de José Abascal, 31, 28003 Madrid, Spain. Check out their clever interactive menu.
I never wrote a restaurant review of City Hall despite living in Scottsdale for years (see TPOL in the Desert). After visiting Ten Con Ten in Madrid, I am compelled to compare and praise both of them.
Having had a few glasses of wine before dinner (see Best Tapas Madrid: No Budget Cuts Here), I skipped the standard pre-dinner dirty martini, a staple at City Hall.
Wine
To accentuate the symbolic connection with City Hall and Ten Con Ten, take note of the bottle of wine I ordered in Scottsdale.
TPOL’s TIP: Sentimentally spending 100 euros on the wine is fine for the occasion. However, at City Hall there were solid house choices and moderately priced.
Bread
City Hall has the best pretzel bread in the world. It is complimentary.
I was surprised that Ten Con Ten charged 3.50 euros for bread and brought a second basket without asking.
The Food Lineup
Feeling like I was at City Hall from the start, I did my best to order the same items.
Oysters
City HallTen Con Ten
The only problem with oysters is that there are never enough oysters.
Tartare
City HallTen Con Ten
Extra App
At City Hall, I like to try a different appetizer each time. If available, I suggest the sushi roll.
At Ten Con Ten, it was the wagyu carpaccio with parmesan.
Lamb
It is not a mistake to order steak at City Hall. However, I prefer the rack of lamb. At Ten Con Ten, I ordered the suckling lamb to keep the lineup consistent. While it was very good, I will have to go back for one of the following in this order: juicy sirloin, rack ribeye (2 people), or beef tenderloin with black truffle.
Extras
You may not think it so, but the onion rings and ranch at City Hall are the best in the world.
Dessert
Having gone to City Hall so many times, we became friendly with the waiter. He sent me to Puerto Rico with this parting gift.
Perhaps, the good people at Ten Con Ten will do the same. That night I had to order dessert.
Price
Here’s the bill from City Hall:
Ten con Ten was $271.
Overall
Life is great when there are places like City Hall and Ten Con Ten.
Some things in the points life are certain. I won’t be approved for a Capital One Card. Amex will keep sending me 160k Business Platinum offers. And Barclays business card apps will be inexplicably tedious. In 2021, I applied for the JetBlue business card. I was finally approved but look at what I went through:
Despite being an on-again/off-again client for years, Barclays still acts like it has no idea who I am. Like my Chase Ink Cash application where I was initially approved for a high credit line (see Recon Call After Recon Call, Finally Chase Ink Cash Approved), additional information was needed to finalize my application. I called in numerous times and was placed on hold only to hang up after an hour of waiting. This week, I finally was able to get through. Like past applications, Barclays is asking for a copy of Bachuwa Law’s business lease to prove my office is where I claim it is. I asked how it was possible that I received the letter requesting this information at my office if that is not the address of my office. The agent had no response. Like before, my only option for sending in the proof was mail or fax. Based on the amount of time I have spent writing these posts, I dare anyone to say that the points life is easy.
Here’s one for my record books. I applied for the Chase Ink Cash card with a 90k sign-up bonus after spending 6k in 3 months. I have had the Chase Ink Preferred forever and had eviscerated the minimum spend on the Unlimited months before (see Chase Matches Ink Unlimited 90k Offer). I did not think it would be taxing to be approved for a second Ink Cash in my collection. It was. For those that like misery, read on.
On January 11th, I applied and was not given an instant decision. I decided to call in. I was told that I was conditionally approved but should transfer a credit balance from my other cards if I wanted a higher limit. I asked to move most of my credit from my Business Hyatt which has been subsequently canceled (see Keep vs. Cancel: Chase Business Hyatt) and some credit from my Preferred. I asked if the card could be sent overnight. The agent said two days is the fastest, but she would process it for me right away.
Giddy, I went back about my day. No less than thirty minutes later, I received a message saying that Chase needed more information. In the past, when approved, I see the account on Chase.com. I saw nothing and decided to call to confirm. I was connected to the strangest agent who must have been working from home. He kept asking me questions and then not responding for long periods of time. Finally, he came back and said that I wasn’t approved. I told him that I was just told that the card would be here in two days. He claimed that call never happened.
Too annoyed, I decided not to bother to call again that day. A week later I tried again, and I was told that my application was still being processed and that I would receive a decision in the mail. A week later, I called back and was told that I needed to send information that validated who I was. I said, “Like a bank statement from Chase?” They said yes. As asinine as the request was, I sent Chase my Chase bank statement. A week later nothing.
I had no interest in calling again and was fine with any decision at this point. On February 16th, I received a generic email from Chase congratulating me on my new card approval. I logged in and saw this:
This Hola España Trip Report was supposed to be more than Food & Drink posts. I still have another seven weeks here, so maybe it will be. But if not, that’s not so bad either. For my next meal, I wanted to go to Mo De Movimiento, an energic pizza place in my Almagro neighborhood. Like the Michelin restaurant (see Michelin for Lunch in Madrid? Why Not?), I showed up without a reservation. This time, I was turned away. The next day, having learned my lesson, I made a booking and was granted access. Here’s what I found:
Organic
The cynic would say that organic is a synonym for trendy. TPOL is no Whole Foods shopper but does appreciate fresh ingredients. However, my understanding of what is on the menu and what they write is lost in translation, even if it is in English.
Still, contrast my description of ‘house white’ with what is written on the menu:
MO DE MOVIMIENTO
DO UTIEL REQUENA, BODEGAS CHOZAS CARRASCAL, MACABEU Y SAUVIGNON BLANC.
Just Mushrooms
A problem with organic is that I leave hungry regardless of how good the food is. “Just mushrooms?” is what I asked when the appetizer came.
Contrast my description with what is written on the menu:
MAITAKE MUSHROOM WITH BLACK BUTTER
ECOLOGICAL MAITAKE MUSHROOM WITH BLACK BUTTER, CAPERS, LEMON AND HOMEMADE HAZELNUT PRALINE.
Asparagus Pizza
To keep up with the theme, we ordered asparagus pizza. Like the mushroom appetizer, I enjoyed it but wanted more food. Unfortunately, the kitchen was closed.
Contrast my description with what is written on the menu:
ARTISAN MOZZARELLA, GREEN ASPARAGUS SAUCE AND ASPARAGUS TIPS, 100% ECOLOGICAL IBERIAN BACON AND GALMESANO CHEESE.
Price
4 glasses of house white: 14 euros
1 plate of mushrooms: 13 euros
1 asparagus pizza: 15.50 euros
Itemizing it like this, I can’t understand how mushrooms and a pizza came out to $45. However, doing it organically:
MO DE MOVIMIENTO (4 CHALACES)
MAITAKE MUSHROOM WITH BLACK BUTTER
PIZZA FOR THE GODS: ARTISAN MOZZARELLA, GREEN ASPARAGUS
The price makes sense.
Overall
I would go back but not because of organic marketing.
I would go back because that’s a damn good slice of pizza.
TPOL’s Tip: Mo de Movimiento is located at C. de Espronceda, 34, 28003 Madrid
Do I care that I am not served the finest Reserva from Duero (see Guns & Butter: Ribera Del Duero, Madrid Travel Guide (Vino Edition))? At $3 a glass, I absolutely do not. What I cannot believe is the amount and variety of tapas that are included in this price. If this were the US and providing tapas gratis was a tradition, it would have been eviscerated at the same time airlines started charging bag fees. Then again, if this were the US, wine by the glass would be something gross and overpriced, even during happy hour. Barefoot Chardonnay anyone?
Luckily for me, I am not in the US for the next six weeks. This allows me the opportunity to share with you the best places for tapas in Madrid.
Disclaimer: I live in the upscale neighborhood of Chamberí. I can’t be bothered to leave this sanctuary too often. Reviews may be limited to this idyllic area.
Disclaimer: Not all tapas are free but when paying, the portions are more than adequate.
Disclaimer: I will republish this post as more tapas are consumed.
Leaders & Best
At the top of the list is La Pochola. It’s down the street from my flat, the wine is good, the atmosphere is energized, and the tapas are generously provided.
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Calle de José Abascal, 49D, 28003 Madrid
Also near my home is El Secreto De Ponzano. Here, I started with vino blanco and then went back to vino tinto. Along with consuming the complimentary tapas, I also ordered two mini burgers.
¡Ay Dios mio! El precio.
TPOl’s TIP: El Secreto De Ponzano is located at C. de Ponzano, 48, 28003 Madrid
Disappointment
Sometimes, the taste of the wine will commensurate with the price. Nice jamon at Bienmesabe, but I won’t be returning.
Tourist
When I was here in 2017, I went to El Tigre (see Tourist Tapas in Madrid) and was scorched for going to a place that only tourists go. Years later, I would still recommend going to witness the hustle and bustle, should you be in the neighborhood.
TPOL’s Tip: El Tigre is located C. de las Infantas, 23, 28004 Madrid
Learn Spanish
For as much Spanish as I know, there is more that I do not. This is especially true for food. At Don Oscar (Atascal), I wanted to order meat and cheese. They were out. Under pressure, I ended up with this. As Chris Tucker would say, “How you going to sell a big box of grease?” In fairness to myself, this was the first tapas bar I went to since moving here.
The chips were free.
TPOL’s Tip: Google translate before ordering.
TPOL’s Tip: Don Oscar (Atascal) is located at Calle de José Abascal, 24, 28003 Madrid.
Tapas or Dinner?
Patatas bravas which means spicy potato is a popular tapa. It’s also a sure-fire way of voiding all gym progress (see Olé! Where to Workout in Madrid) and becoming a potato yourself. At Cerveceria Lola, I not only ordered patatas bravas, but I also ordered una hamburguesa can huevo frito. From a health standpoint, there is nothing healthier than this for a late-night snack. From an economic standpoint, how can you beat 2 beers and 2 plates for $20?
TPOL’s Tip: Cervceria Lola is located at C. de Ponzano, 50, 28003 Madrid, across the street from El Secreto De Ponzano.
Upscale
The upscale neighborhood of Madrid is Salamanca. I stopped there for tapas and vino at Restaurante Tierra del Queiles. There, I had the best Rioja on the way to Ten Con Ten for dinner (see Ten Con Ten Madrid vs. City Hall Scottsdale).
TPOL’s Tip: The location is C. de Hermosilla, 7, 28001 Madrid.
For the Young
Be sure to stop into La Querencia for entertainment and, most importantly, albóndigas (meatballs).
TPOL’s Tip: The address is Calle de Fernández de la Hoz, 56, Chamberí, 28010 Madrid, Spain.
Continuing my tour of Almagro, my neighborhood in Madrid, I went to Kintaro to catch the sushi express. Destination: fat and full. Not fully acclimated to the late-night dining of Spain, I was the first to arrive at 8:30 PM. I took a seat and watched as the edamame and other starters whizzed by. A half-hour later, two more guests arrived and two more after that. The volume of food far outnumbered the number of patrons.
As time passed, the diversity of sushi increased. Initially, it was only Philadelphia rolls and salmon sushi. The rolls increased in complexity and flavor each time I looked up. In addition to Japanese food, there were also Chinese treats including spring rolls, fried rice, dumplings, and noodles. After eating plate after plate, I finally began to feel the effects of not taking a break from the carousel. However, I could not stop so long as there was something new offered. Reaching out for another treat, I realized I already had this roll. I went to put it back but thought it would be unsanitary to do so. Not one to waste food, I forced myself to eat. The tour was capped off with dessert. All of it, along with a beer, cost $22.
Per the article, videos of people licking shared soy sauce bottles and messing with plates of food on conveyor belts are prompting critics to question their prospects in a Covid-conscious world. Last week this video went viral:
Who is this child’s parents? Why are people this disgusting? One of the restaurants in Japan says it will use AI technology to combat #sushitero: “We want to deploy our AI-operated cameras to monitor if customers put the sushi they picked up with their hands back on the plates.” What has the world come to?
Until that technology is rolled out, I suggest arriving early to avoid #sushiterrorism.
TPOL’s TIP: Kintaro is located atCalle de Fernández de la Hoz, 70, 28003 Madrid
A friend of mine happened to be in Madrid at the same time I am here for my residency (see TPOL Now Living in Madrid!). As a tourist, he went to a cooking class, something that I will not do as a ‘local’ (see TPOL in Madrid: Why A Second Residency?). There, the instructor told him that her favorite restaurant in Madrid is La Montería. I tried to make a reservation via the website for the day off but could not. When we arrived at 4 PM, the place was packed with people eating and drinking copious amounts of wine. How was this happening on a Wednesday afternoon? I thought there was no way that we would be seated. Indeed, the hostess was shocked when we said we did not have a reservation. Nevertheless, they put two tables together and were graciously accommodating.
TPOL’s TIP: Reservations for most restaurants in Madrid are recommended.
When I sat down, I looked at the wall and was surprised when I saw the Michelin awards. I have only been to one Michelin-starred restaurant. It was in Copenhagen and it was a special experience (see Punk Royale Copenhagen: Michelin Restaurant on Acid). Going to another for lunch was a bit over the top.
Wine
If you’re going to do Michelin, you must have great wine. With the help of the waitress, I selected this hearty bottle from Rioja.
Food
Everything was ordered to share. Everything was fantastic.
jamon Iberico con tomateshrimp tempuraTempura asparagusTuna tartareRabbit with rice
Overall
The budget could not handle a Michelin lunch every day, nor would I want to indulge on such fancy food every day. Still, I am left wondering if Michelin meals are the norm for the upper class of Madrid.
TPOL’s Tip: La Montería is located at C. de Lope de Rueda, 35, 28009 Madrid.
