What is your favorite part of trip planning? Mine is putting together my Excel spreadsheet showing how much I saved versus how much someone who purchases Rimowa Luggage would spend. I have a dedicated page on my blog for these works of art (see Bus-Ted: TPOL Points & Cash Summary). As I was filling in the cells for this trip, I went to Hilton.com to see the retail price for a stay at Zemi Beach Anguilla. The cost of the stay would have been $4,076.99 for three nights. While that is shocking, what was more offensive were the taxes.
It’s an additional $866.76 in taxes, almost as much as one night. Money must not mean anything for those fancy luggage folk.
From Anguilla, I was open to the possibility of going to another island, so long as it was convenient. When I went to Skyscanner.com and searched nonstop to anywhere, no options came back. When I went to Anguilla’s Wiki Airport page, I was overwhelmed by the number of options but underwhelmed by the non-points airlines that serviced the airport with nonstop flights (see Wiki Airports: Finding Flights to the Unbeaten Path). Curious, I wondered what a flight would cost from Anguilla back to Puerto Rico. To my surprise, Silver Airways offers nonstop service for only $138. In one hour, I could be back home, ready for golf the following day. On top of that, I used my annual Capital One Venture X travel credit to pay for the flight.
I signed up for the Hilton Business Amex, met the minimum spend of 4k to receive the free night and met the minimum spend of 15k in a year to receive another free night. The aspirational redemption to maximize these certificates was at the Zemi Beach House Anguilla. What better way to spend my birthday than on a tropical paradise (see Intro: Birthday Bash Trip Report)? After reading the introduction to OMAAT’s review, I was persuaded that I should increase my stay from three nights to five nights to take advantage of the fifth free night which Hilton offers for points redemptions of that length. I went to the app and saw there was availability. I booked it.
After reading the entire review, I went back and canceled the extra two nights and contemplated saving an additional 110,000 Hilton points by staying for two nights total. Ultimately, I went back to three. While the hotel looks nice, I don’t know what I would do for five nights. Lucky mentions walking on the beach. I can do this in my backyard in Rio Mar on one of the nicest beaches in the world, Las Picuas. Lucky also describes the restaurants in the hotel and says how expensive they are. What is worse than night after night of racking up a huge restaurant tab? Lucky also mentions renting a car. This is supposed to be a lazy trip, not one for exploration. Unfortunately, my ability to remain lazy lasts for a few hours, making a car rental compulsory. Finally, in my Travel Lessons, I write, “TPOL’s rule is to stay a maximum of three nights but preferably two nights in any city. Four nights in Tenerife is an eternity (Guns & Butter: Tenerife Travel Guide (Disappointed Edition).” Why write the rule if I’m not going to stick to it?
Thank you Lucky for saving me 220,000 Hilton points.
There aren’t many direct international flights from Puerto Rico. My favorite one is Iberia to Madrid. I’ve flown it many times (see Una Vez Mas). Recently, Avianca started flying directly to Medellin. Remarkably, basic economy tickets can be purchased for as low as 7,000 LifeMile points. With an abundance of currencies that convert to LifeMiles, I figured it would be worth spending more for a business class flight. But, no matter what date I checked, I saw zero business class availability. How could this be, I wondered? Wondering did not provide a solution. Instead, I mustered up the courage and called Avianca to find out. Lately, the customer service has been quite good (contrast Avianca’s LifeMiles Chat Sucks: Are You Surprised?). I learned there are no business class seats on flights from Puerto Rico, and there are no business class seats on flights from Medellin to Miami, the next stop on my birthday trip.
Ultimately, I spent 19,680 LifeMiles + $20 for a ticket that includes both a carry-on and checked-in bag. For a 2:40 minute flight, I can endure coach while saving my points.
I will be going to Colombia more often on this route.
TPOL’s Tip: According to OMAAT, Avianca will fly business again.
The first stop on the way to Mosul was Samarra, home to the most unique minaret in the world. The Great Mosque of Samarra was built in 848 but was destroyed following an invasion of Iraq in the 13th century, leaving the one-of-a-kind minaret as the main attraction. Before going to Samarra, I watched a YouTube video that made the trek to the top seem treacherous. I compliment the videographer for her skills but can assure you there is relatively no risk, minus selfie stupidity (see Beware of Selfie Death!).
After all the checkpoints, we arrived.It quickly turned into a photoshoot.
The ominous bird in the desert.Where the mosque used to be. Living on the edgeClassic Saddam poseHow’d I end up here?
Be careful going down#neverscaredPhoto of the day
TPOL’s Trivia: The US used the minaret as a sniper tower to fight ISIS.
TPOL’s Turbans: Looking to blend in while in Samarra, purchase your own Urban Turban.
Rooted in Iraq and conceived in London, IQ Khameleon is the smart sportswear brand that blends culture with functionality.
You thought I Quit Blogging? You were wrong. I was trying to improve blogging efficiency. I failed initially but it is now in the works. In the interim, I am back to doing it manually. Here are the brilliant posts from April.
It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday. I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts?
Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse, the flight attendant came out with more vino and entertained my request for my fifth drink, a Jack and Coke Zero.
Do you want to test your patience? Do you want to try your luck at being cheeky with armed men? Then hop in your car and take a ride up from Baghdad to Mosul. I would not recommend the self-drive tour, though having a guide may be more invasive than insightful (see Driver Vs. Guide). Following the defeat of ISIS, Iraq has become increasingly safe. To keep peace in Baghdad, there are armed Humvees everywhere. To keep order in the country, there are checkpoints throughout Iraq. These checkpoints are administered by the Iraqi army, Iraqi police, local militias, and all groups in between.
BaghdadBaghdadI bought an Iraqi police uniform. But that’s for another post.There are billboards of Qasem Soleimani all over Baghdad especially in the Shiite-dominated south of Iraq. He was killed appropriately by the Trump administration while visiting Iraq in 2020. This billboard is a literal sign of Iran’s influence and infiltration of Iraq, a sovereign nation.
On the way to Samarra, we experienced checkpoint after checkpoint. Some went smoothly, some had friction. All this took place over a distance of 80 miles.
Checkpoint 1
Guard (in Arabic): Do you speak Arabic? Any issues with the driver?
I found this one interesting as he was concerned about my well-being.
Many were locked and loaded.Others were not.
Checkpoint 2
Guard (in Arabic): Passports.
It became apparent that I should always have my passport ready and proactively volunteer information. Like the TSA, it’s better to expect the questioning than be surprised when it happens (see Traveling While Arab? Pack Your Sense of Humor).
Can you imagine going down I-75 and seeing this Humvee? Safe or scary?
Checkpoint 3
My driver thought he could coast through this checkpoint. We were quickly stopped.
Guard (in Arabic): Why didn’t you say you are a tour guide? Where are you from?
Smart-Ass Tour Guide: Baghdad
Me (thinking): He obviously wants to know where Ms. TPOL and I are from.
As an expert at border crossings, I was not shocked when were pulled aside and questioned further. I lectured the cocky tour guide and said next time stick to the strategy from Checkpoint 2.
Not sure what’s over there and I didn’t want to find out.
Checkpoint 4: Passports must be surrendered before seeing the Great Mosque of Samarra (see Samarra). It’s always a comforting feeling to know that I can’t go anywhere.
Checkpoint 5: We got this far. They have our passports. We are waived through.
TPOL’s Tip: Use the toilet before checkpoints.
Overall
The guards, whoever they were and whoever they represented, were much nicer than US Customs and Immigration.
At the top of the Guns & Butter must-do list when visiting a country for the first time is to meet a relative for the first time.
Since I was born in the United States, I had never met my uncle. Trying to reconnect with my roots and learn more about my family’s experience in Iraq (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad), I arranged a Sally Jesse Raphael reunion. I was excited when he answered the call. I was ecstatic that he invited me to his home.
I was a bit nervous when I showed up because I did not know what to expect. After the usual pleasantries, we got right to it. He treated me like he had known me for years. Nothing was off-limits. I had never met this person, but he was quick-witted, knowledgeable, and refreshingly disagreeable. He shared some funny stories about my parents and my other relatives. We talked typical Arab gossip over Arab cookies, Arabic coffee, and, of course, chai.
For me, the debate of nature versus nurture is over. This stranger was no more and never was. Sit with us for a few seconds and you will know that he is my uncle and I am his nephew.
You still owe me dolma!
This was an awesome experience, one that cannot be replicated and one that I cannot put into words nor would I want to do so. This was also the conclusion of my time in Baghdad.
If it’s any time in Iraq, it’s chai time. Spent, I needed more caffeine. I went to the espresso place next to my hotel.
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Al Arasat St. No. 23 Al Risafa, Baghdad. Be sure to allow extra time to get through the metal detectors and wand pat down.
The Iraq Museum
Like all Guns & Butter Trip Reports, there is always something I cannot do. In Baghdad, it was visiting the Iraqi National Museum. I overslept the first day when I was supposed to go and it was closed on Saturday which is atypical. While this was not as bad as not seeing King Tut in Cairo (see Guns & Butter: Cairo Travel Guide), it was irritating. My guide was more upset than I was.
Closed for business.
Karrada
From there, we went to Karrada, a district where many Christians live(d). It was unique to see a church and St. Raphael hospital in the heart of Baghdad. Was my sister born there I wondered?
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Karada Dakhl – near Abu Aklam gas station.
Bargaining
Visiting museums is my least favorite activity while traveling. As TPOL readers know, bargaining is the exact opposite (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!). This time I was in search of an Iraqi soccer jersey. Because the team has not been good in a long time, finding one anywhere in the city proved challenging. I finally located one and purchased it for 9000 dinar ($6.83). It was XXlL and fit me perfectly, leaving me to wonder what might have been.
#23 Alexander ‘the assassin’ Bachuwa
TPOL’s Trivia: Saddam’s son Udai used to torture players who did not perform well on the pitch. To counteract this barbaric practice, he would purchase Ferraris for those who did well.
The streets of Baghdad
Masgouf
A traditional Arabic dish is masgouf. It is made from river carp caught in the Tigris. The fish is a bottom feeder consuming anything it can to survive.
I do not advise sitting outside in the death heat.Would you eat a carp swimming around in here?
The preparation of the fish is something to behold.
I tried to eat the masgouf but psychologically I could not do it. I felt like I was on Fear Factor.
I ate the onions and pickles.Ms. TPOL ate the rest.
The chef came by and asked if we would like to see how the bread was made. I was the first to jump away from the table and the nasty masgouf.
Just bread for me, thank you.
I did find something delicious at the restaurant. This was the best tubbalah I had in Iraq and most like grandma used to make.
I would have loved to try the eggplant.As an aside, I finally found Diet Pepsi, a rarity in Coke dominated Iraq.
TPOL’s Tip: Sinnara restaurant is located at 79VV+9WM, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq.
Overall
Day 3 was much more calm than the first two days.
Bonus Coverage
Day 3 was not over. I had one more encounter which made this day one I will never forget (see Baghdad, Iraq: Family Reunion).
