Pardon my absence, it has been days since my last confession. I have been in Africa this whole time writing posts on my Blackberry, but I have not sat still long enough to actually post. Fear not, the adventure is coming to an end next week. There is such a thing as too much vacation, but that’s a post for another time. For now, let’s recap the best of September:
After arriving on Perurail, you might be eager to get to the top. Because of the crowds, I decided to take some time and buy some souvenirs. The shops all offer the same things, but there are great keepsakes to remind you of the moment. Personally, I found the alpaca memorabilia to be hysterical.
Here is what I bought and what I paid. I had to bargain hard to get them which is my favorite pastime.
Souvenirs
Alpaca T-Shirt: 15 soles ($4.55). This is $2 higher than the normal cost of a shirt overseas but I had to have it.
Alpaca Hat: 10 soles or ($3)
Alpaca Sweater (featured in later post): Priceless or 30 soles ($9)
After finally getting the tickets sorted, I was ready for the train to and from Machu Picchu.
The Train Station
Get there early and order a mocha while waiting for your train and so you can take some photos of the carriage.
The cabin reminds me of the underwater restaurant in Conrad Maldives.
The Train to Machu Picchu
The train ride there was great because it was empty. We had a booth to ourselves and enjoyed a bottle of white while we made the 3.5 hour journey. While there was no Wi-Fi, there was still plenty to do and see whether it be through the window or the skylight ceilings.
On the way there I also had some coca tea and the local purple corn juice. Say yes to coca, say no to chica morada. The lunch was also satisfying. Judging by the look of the passengers riding in economy, it would appear that splurging for middle class was worth it.
The Train Back
On the way back, the train was packed. The same drinks were offered, and I passed on the coke for cafe along with two pisco sours, the Peruvian traditional drink. For entertainment, there was a dancing man and a full on fashion show. Alpacca to Peru is cashmere to Mongolia. The workers put on a show using the train car as the catwalk to demonstrate the latest ‘pacca clothing. The garments are not cheap. A baby ‘pacca sweater went for $170. Drinks, food, and a fashion show were a great way to cap off a hectic day.
Overall
I love trains. Whether it be the one from Bangkok to Chiang Mai or the lazy route to Machu Picchu, trains can’t be beat. The price is a bit steep, but judging by the occupancy, it has little effect on tourists making the trek.
The adventure of Machu Picchu is not going to the ancient ruins, it’s getting the tickets to go there. As a perennial procrastinator, I did not purchase tickets ahead of time. This was a bold move because admission is capped to 2,500 people per day. While I was waiting in the lounge in Lima, I had a mild panic attack when I read this. Imagine going all the way to Cusco only to find out that Walley World was closed.
Government’s Website
I tried to go to the government’s website to buy the tickets, but Adobe Flash would not load. When it finally did, all my credit cards were declined. The good news was that the quota was far from being reached. As such, I decided to wait until I arrived in Cusco to purchase the tickets.
Buying Locally
I stayed at the Palacio del Inca, a Luxury Collection Hotel, which is right in the city center. The front desk said that the ticket office was only one block away near the Palacio de Justicia. I walked in that direction and could not find it. I asked a local who told me to go back towards the hotel. Still lost, I took out Google Maps which sent me in the wrong direction. Annoyed, I went back to the hotel to ask the concierge. They said they could sell me the tickets there for a ten dollar premium. Besides not wanting to pay more than the actual retail price, I wanted to locate the ticket office out of curiosity. The woman said it was right down the street.
Determined to find it, I went out of the hotel, made a right down the alley, and a left on the first street as I had been instructed. I found myself once again at the Palacio. Feeling foolish, I asked another guy where it was. He pointed back towards my hotel. Wouldn’t you know it, the ticket office is less than a block from the hotel and is connected to an architectural ruins site.
I went in, passport in hand, and bought two tickets for noon access for $97. But this would not be the end of the adventure.
Train Tickets
Next, I had to purchase tickets for the train to take me to Machu Picchu. There are two choices, PeruRail or Inca. Inca was sold out so I went with Peru. There are three available lines on Peru: Expedition, Vistadome, and Hiram Bingham which is named after the man who re-discovered Machu Picchu.
Expedition, the cheapest was sold out. I ended up booking Vistadome which cost $80 per/pax on the way up and $100 per/pax on the way down. The $500 Hiram Bingham option may be the way to get there in luxury, but for that price, I don’t need to ride in style. Of course, making the reservation online does not mean that you have tickets for the train. It just means that the tickets are on hold. The next step is to find the ticket office which is located in Plaza de Armas. Bring your passport, confirmation email, and booking credit card when you go. Alternatively, you can just book the tickets in person and spare yourself the hassle.
Taxi to Poroy
Train tickets in hand, entrance tickets in hand, it was time to go to sleep as my train was leaving bright and early at 7:35AM. Still, there was one more thing to plan before going– the taxi to Poroy, a town outside of Cusco. The hotel wanted $22 to arrange a taxi, otherwise I could get one off of the street in the morning.
At 6AM I headed back to Plaza de Armas and negotiated for a ride to Poroy. The driver wanted 30 Peruvian soles but we agreed on 20 (~$6.10 USD). It takes 30 minutes to get there with no traffic.
Bus to the Summit
The final cost would be for the bus up to Machu Picchu which is $25 per/pax which can be bought upon arriving at the town outside of Machu Picchu.
Overall
Buying and getting to Machu Picchu is not the simplest thing to do, nor is it the cheapest. If you don’t want the hassle, you’ll have to pay the hotel or a ticket broker to do the leg work for you. Hopefully, this guide makes it easy enough that you will not have to do that.
Originally, I was supposed to stay at the Tupac Hostel in Lima because my flight to Cusco was at 6:40AM and I was scheduled to arrive at 11PM. And who wouldn’t want to stay at a hostel named after my favorite rapper?
After the United IAH-LIM delay, I decided that the drive to and from the airport would not be worth the hassle. I hoped that there would be a lounge at the airport that would be open.
The Caral VIP Lounge
I was flying Avianca business to Cusco, but there was not an Avianca lounge in the terminal. There was the lifesaver Priority Pass Lounge. It was one giant room with leather chairs and weary passengers. I grabbed a beer and a plate of peanuts and proceeded to fall asleep. Somehow the hangover still had not left me.
Flight Cancellation
I woke up and checked the board for my flight. It was not on there. I scrambled through the terminal to find an Avianca rep. There was not one to be found. I spoke to security who was as confused as I was that my flight was not there. Finally, I went out of the terminal and to the ticket counter. My Avianca flight had been cancelled (damn strike) and was rescheduled for hours later. Thankfully, I had the Caral Lounge as a retreat.
Overall
I’m so happy that there was a quiet lounge to pass the time before going to Cusco. It is much more convenient than having to leave the airport just to come back hours later. I was annoyed that neither Avianca nor United notified me that my original flight to Cusco was cancelled.
When I flew Emirates Shower Class the first time, I made the mistake of going out in NYC the night before. Though I was comfortable on that flight, I spent most of it trying to recover and not enjoying the on board bar (see Emirates Shower Round 2). Lesson not learned, I had a similar experience flying United from Houston to Lima.
The Configuration Hurting, I boarded the plane and snapped a few photos of the seats. The business class cabin was packed. The seats were configured in a 2-2-2 format. If you’re not flying with a companion and have a window seat, you’ll have to jump over your fellow passenger to get to the bathroom.
The Amenities
Maybe it was my weakened state, but I really appreciated the comfort of the amenities. The Saks Fifth Avenue pillow and cover were very soft. I considered taking the pillow as a souvenir. The eye covers have replaced my Delta Tumis as the go-to covers for travel.
The Delay
Beaten, I fell asleep and expected to wake up in Lima. Three hours later, we had not gotten off of the ground. First, there was a problem with a temperature gauge. Then there was a medical situation. This was followed by another issue with the temperature gauge. I was actually happy that we were delayed because my flight from Lima to Cusco was at 6AM. The later we arrived, the less time I would have to spend at the airport.
The Food
We finally got off the ground and I fell asleep. I woke up to the food service. The meal consisted of a small salad with Ranch, an appetizer of meat, and chicken with mashed potatoes. It was small in portion but just fine on flavor. I tried to have champagne before takeoff and then a glass of wine with dinner but had to stick to water.
The Entertainment
I watched two episodes of the Simpsons before returning to the safety of sleep.
The Service
From my flight to LA, onto Houston, and now to Lima, I give United high marks for service. The purser was especially nice and friendly, making the delay tolerable.
Overall
I’ve only flown business on American carriers twice. The first was to Argentina on a 767 with Delta. The seats were very old and angled, but the ice cream was delicious. The second was this flight which was a more than suitable replacement for my cancelled Avianca Dreamliner.
A layover in Los Angeles could have turned into a lengthy stopover following a day of drinking in Marina del Rey. Fortunately, the alarm clock at the Aloft LAX went off loudly enough to stir me from my sleep. The Aloft is only minutes away from LAX, giving me enough time to go to the lounge despite my tardy arrival.
The Lounge Itself
I am a fan of United’s navy blue. It is nicer than Delta’s blue. The lounge was decorated with shades of blue throughout, giving it a modern feel.
The Patio
I was in no condition to sit in the patio and enjoy the sunrise. For those that arrive well rested, I recommend sitting outside and taking in the scenery.
The Food
As nice as the lounge looked, the food was pathetic. There were the tiniest, worst bagels I have ever had, oatmeal, and yogurt. That’s not the breakfast of champions.
The Bar
Still energized from the night before, I thought it wise to keep the party going with some Bloody Mary’s. Though delicious (and also better than Delta), it was not a prudent move to consume two of these.
Overall
The United Club LAX is a solid lounge, if only it had better food.
Behold, the City of Angels! Well, you can’t behold it for too long. Chances are that you are only in town for a few hours if you are staying at the Aloft El Segundo LA Airport. En route to Peru, I had sixteen hours in Los Angeles. This provided a perfect opportunity to see some friends and catch up on my drinking. That proved costly as too many margaritas made for a rough day ahead.
Getting There
The Aloft shuttle leaves to the airport twice an hour. On the way to the hotel, it stops at the Fairfield. I was told to switch shuttles and that the next stop would be the Aloft. I waited for ten minutes for the shuttle to leave. Thirty seconds later, I was at the Aloft.
TPOL’s TIP: Walk to the Aloft, it’s right next door.
The Hotel Itself
The hotel is hip and W-ish.
The Pool
If you are a loner, consider staying at the hotel after grabbing some In N Out (the most overrated burger, contrast with the Mo Club, one of the world’s greatest burgers). The hotel has a beautiful pool that will make you think you’re in Vegas or a more swanky LA neighborhood.
Welcome Amenity
Gummy bears and white or red vines and red? Those were the choices for the welcome amenity. That’s a pretty clever concept that is consistent with the easy going atmosphere of Aloft hotels.
The Room
The room is standard Aloft elegance. One day I’ll grab one of these Aloft pillows for my personal collection.
The Bathroom
The bathroom was different than other Alofts because of the aggressive orange paint. Of course, your favorite Aloft soaps are there to soap and sud the In N Out oil off your fat belly or the post tequila binge.
Overall
Aloft continues to be my favorite airport hotel. This one would be worth staying at for the pool alone, and for the fact that it is so close to the airport should you enjoy Sunday irresponsibly and are in a hurry to make your flight.
Putting the finishing touches on my South America and Africa trip. I survived an Avianca strike by some last minute ingenuity. One flight that was not part of this outstanding booking was Zanzibar to Dar Es Salaam. The flight is operated by Precision Air and can be as cheap as $40. Because there’s nothing to do in Dar, I took the late night flight which is more expensive and went for $93.50.
The issue was trying to use a credit card. One after one, each of my credit cards was rejected. Chase Ink, Sapphire, and even Altitude did not work. I was about to give up and pay more to book through Expedia ($132) but took out my Aviator for one last try. Magically, it worked and I received the confirmation email. Then I received a fraud alert from Barclays saying that the transaction was not approved. I logged into the site and found this:
I said yes and the fraud alert was lifted. Who knows if the transaction would have been cancelled, but I wasn’t going to risk it.
This is not the first time I have heard that the Barclays card works where others do not. The other was at the train station in Milan where every card was rejected because I did not have a pin.
Holy cheeseballs! I’ve been tracking Avianca’s strike methodically every day. Yesterday night, Avianca’s website said that special accommodations were being made for certain flights. It listed my flight from LAX-BOG as one of them. This morning that flight was no longer on there, but it still showed as “scheduled” under flight status.
Instead of waiting for the inevitable email from United, I took matters into my own hands and called them. Initially, the agent said that the flight was still happening. I pressed her to confirm and she put me on hold. She came back and said it was cancelled. I asked to speak to a supervisor in order to repair what would have been an epic mess.
Before I get into how United and I saved the day, here is the Great Circle Mapper of my absurd journey for 105k United miles in business. (The return is on Virgin from JNB-SFO via LHR.) Here is how I booked part of this beauty.
This route consists of two United reservations. Both reservations have Avianca segments. The first problem was my flight from LAX-BOG. I fought hard to get that Dreamliner route instead of flying on dreadful Taca. Now, the agent was recommending I take that flight. Refusing to fly a 737 in a recliner and pretend that it is business, I scanned all options that were available. Ultimately, I found a solution. I’m now flying United metal to Lima on a 767 in lie-flat business with the possibility of being upgraded to Polaris. Even if Polaris does not happen, I think this is a decent substitute.
The agent asked if I was all set, and I said no, I have another problem. My flight from SCL to GRU connects in BOG on Avianca as well. If that segment is cancelled, then I will not be able to from SCL to Africa! The only option was to fly direct from SCL to GRU in coach. I may sound crazy saying this, but a four hour flight in coach, leaving SCL at 2AM and arriving GRU at 6AM, versus leaving Santiago at 4:15PM and arriving at GRU at 6AM is preferable. While I don’t get to experience more business class, I do get to experience another full day in Chile.
United’s agent was very nice and very helpful. I am thankful that this worked out. The lesson learned is to change your flight proactively in anticipation of pending disaster. I’m not sure what would have happened if I just waited and did nothing to mitigate.
Adventure back on!