Baghdad Day 3 is part of the Iraq Homecoming Trip Report. Read Day 1 and read Day 2.
If it’s any time in Iraq, it’s chai time. Spent, I needed more caffeine. I went to the espresso place next to my hotel.
TPOL’s Tip: The location is Al Arasat St. No. 23 Al Risafa, Baghdad. Be sure to allow extra time to get through the metal detectors and wand pat down.
The Iraq Museum
Like all Guns & Butter Trip Reports, there is always something I cannot do. In Baghdad, it was visiting the Iraqi National Museum. I overslept the first day when I was supposed to go and it was closed on Saturday which is atypical. While this was not as bad as not seeing King Tut in Cairo (see Guns & Butter: Cairo Travel Guide), it was irritating. My guide was more upset than I was.
Closed for business.Karrada
From there, we went to Karrada, a district where many Christians live(d). It was unique to see a church and St. Raphael hospital in the heart of Baghdad. Was my sister born there I wondered?
St. Raphael
In deep thought, I went to Bin Reda Alwan Company Coffee Roaster, a cafe for scholars. Over ice cream and OJ, I studied Soil Mechanics.
Gelato and cigarettes, what a combo.Women did soil mechanics.TPOL’s Tip: The location is Karada Dakhl – near Abu Aklam gas station.
Bargaining
Visiting museums is my least favorite activity while traveling. As TPOL readers know, bargaining is the exact opposite (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!). This time I was in search of an Iraqi soccer jersey. Because the team has not been good in a long time, finding one anywhere in the city proved challenging. I finally located one and purchased it for 9000 dinar ($6.83). It was XXlL and fit me perfectly, leaving me to wonder what might have been.
#23 Alexander ‘the assassin’ BachuwaTPOL’s Trivia: Saddam’s son Udai used to torture players who did not perform well on the pitch. To counteract this barbaric practice, he would purchase Ferraris for those who did well.
The streets of BaghdadMasgouf
A traditional Arabic dish is masgouf. It is made from river carp caught in the Tigris. The fish is a bottom feeder consuming anything it can to survive.
I do not advise sitting outside in the death heat.Would you eat a carp swimming around in here?The preparation of the fish is something to behold.
I tried to eat the masgouf but psychologically I could not do it. I felt like I was on Fear Factor. I ate the onions and pickles.Ms. TPOL ate the rest.
The chef came by and asked if we would like to see how the bread was made. I was the first to jump away from the table and the nasty masgouf.
Just bread for me, thank you.
I did find something delicious at the restaurant. This was the best tubbalah I had in Iraq and most like grandma used to make.
I would have loved to try the eggplant.As an aside, I finally found Diet Pepsi, a rarity in Coke dominated Iraq.TPOL’s Tip: Sinnara restaurant is located at 79VV+9WM, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, Iraq.
Overall
Day 3 was much more calm than the first two days.
Bonus Coverage
Day 3 was not over. I had one more encounter which made this day one I will never forget (see Baghdad, Iraq: Family Reunion).
Baghdad Day 2 is part of the Iraq Homecoming Trip Report. Read Day 1.
Welcome to the Jungle is the appropriate name for my second day in Baghdad, Iraq following Baghdad, Iraq Day 1: Over Stimulation.
The calm of Baghdad in the morning.Street Market
Though I did stop by Times Square for New Year’s in 2021 (see Happy New Year! TPOL’s NYC NYE Party Guide), I avoid it at all costs when I go to New York. The same is true about the markets that take over the city streets. In Baghdad, the markets pop up on Friday. It’s a literal zoo with all sorts of animals from snakes to birds being sold in one area to hundreds of people bargaining for useless junk. With hundreds of people jammed in close proximity, all I could think of was how as recently as 2016, the country was on edge as ISIS had held Mosul hostage and bomb attacks were not uncommon (see Dozens killed as bombs tear through packed markets). While Baghdad is safe, I would’ve fled the scene if I had been on my own. Instead, we spent the next few hours in the scorching heat pummeled by merchants peddling everything under the hot Iraqi sun.
I had a brief respite when I stopped for freshly squeezed OJ. The kind merchant didn’t bother charging me upon learning I was Iraqi American.
A quiet corridor.
From the jammed street markets, we went to the souk. It was unimpressive. All I saw was useless junk leaving me unable to test my bargaining skills (see Bargaining Price Guide: Bookmark It!).
Bought Saddam currency when I was in Qatar in 2014. I don’t think it has gone up in value.
I did purchase one souvenir. I will display it at Bachuwa Law’s domestic headquarters, Rio Mar, Puerto Rico. Hopefully, it does not constitute the unauthorized practice of law.
Gift for my uncle.Space! Get me out of here.Kubba Break
Before going to the famous Muttanabi Street, I saw a place selling a traditional Iraqi dish, kubba. I had to stop for a sample. Not as good as grandma’s, but it did bring back memories.
Muttanabi Street
Before my trip and in my quest to become a polyglot (see TPOL The Polyglot: A Better Way to Learn Multiple Languages), I learned how to ask, “وين شارِع المُتَنَبّي؟,” which means, “where is Muttanabi Street?” Al-Muttanabi was a famous Iraqi poet and the street that bears his name still sells books, though some are of questionable quality.
Rich Dad, Poor Dad is a terrible book. Read my book, Everyone’s Advice Is Wrong . . . Including Mine instead.Muttanabi Street
An obligatory stop on Muttanabi Street is Shabandar Café (مقهى الشابندر) which opened in 1917. It is what Kasalta is to locals of Puerto Rico, a place to go, chat, relax, and perhaps, write poetry.
Take note of the high top relaxed hair look. Every young man wore it proudly.
My hookah days are behind me, but I received enough second hand argheli smoke and cigarette smoke regardless. I also had one of many chai’s on my chai crawl troul of Baghdad. The lemon style had a kick to it.
Mikey Spotting
A fun activity while in Baghdad is Mikey spotting. I couldn’t help but notice how many Iraqi men look like my Palestinian golf extraordinaire friend, Mikey (see Since I cannot personally go to SE Asia with Mikey and show him the ladyboy bars in Bangkok…).
You can see him working in the photo above.Wait, How did Iraqi Mikey get to Puerto Rico?TPOL’s Trivia: Shabandar Café is also called Martyr Cafe because a suicide bomber killed including many civilians including the owners’ sons in a cowardly attack in 2007 following the US invasion of Iraq. Like the open market, it was eery to know I was in a place that had witnessed so much carnage.
Haircut Spotting
Can you spot the cool haircut?
Food Everywhere
Hungry? Why wait?
By far the pretzel looking sugar things are the best.Healthy also available.Ice cream is better.Architecture
Throughout Baghdad there is British-inspired architecture. Once upon a time, it was that beautiful. Now, it is a depressing sign of a city cemented in disrepair, if not despair.
Juice, Hookah, Cafe Repeat
On a semi-diet and without access to pubs, filling the time in Baghdad proved challenging. I found myself going from one cafe to another drinking chai and having freshly squeezed OJ. The option to smoke argheli was available. I kept asking myself if lung cancer and diabetes were better than cirrhosis of the liver.
If you’re looking to pass the time or waste it, add in a game of backgammon, طاولة الزهر, with a few of your local friends. You will be there all day.
If you’re wondering who that woman is on the wall, it is Umm Kulthum.
TPOL’s Trivia: Do you know Umm Kulthum is the most famous Arab singer of all time? Her story has a dark side, one based on propaganda. The government supported her marathon concerts as a way of distracting the masses from their actions and as a tool for promoting Arab nationalism.
TPOL’s TIP: Women are welcome in the argheli bar. No one gave Ms. TPOL or me weird looks when we joined a group of gentlemen at their table.
Al-Muttanabi Statue
Overlooking the Tigris is the Al-Muttanabi Statue. Next to that is a cafe for more chai.
Would you float the Tigris on a Friday afternoon?This guy did.Celebrating my Iraqi Bar AdmittanceTPOL’s Trivia: Did you know I was the 24th American lawyer sworn into the Mongolian bar (see Remember That Time TPOL Moved to Mongolia?)? Along with my Achilles rupture (see TPOL Is Down, The Website, Not the Achilles), Kobe and I have another thing in common.
Abu Hanifa Mosque
Our next step was the Abu Hanifa mosque. Security was very tight. So was the dress code. Ms. TPOL purchased an abaya to enter.
Who’s that lady? (Who’s that lady?) Beautiful lady (Who’s that lady?) Who’s that lady? (Who’s that lady?) That real, real, real fine lady (A beautiful lady)That beautiful lady (The beautiful lady)
Before going in, all phones and electronics are checked. This explains the lack of photos. Here is one before going in:
Modern Cafe
After that, it was back to another cafe. I substituted tea for espresso. The place, Fay, was more lively and younger in its demographic. For the first time, I saw a mixture of men and women. It felt like a normal coffee shop.
TPOL’s Tip: Fay’s Cafe is located atFour Streets،, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, IraqSaving Iraqi Culture
The marathon tour continued with photos in front of the Saving Iraqi Culture Monument. To me, it looked like a reminder of my Achilles injury.
The flag is a symbol of pride. I was back and forth between thinking this place is tragic and this place has hope.Dinner
Instead of going for traditional Arabic food, we went to a pizza place that made Arabic favorites on flatbreads. It was very creative and delicious. Like the modern cafe, it was a positive sign of change.
TPOL’s TIP: I recommend the hummus with beef but the falafel was also nice.
TPOL’s Tip: Sin30 is located at Four Streets, Baghdad, Baghdad Governorate, 00964, Iraq.
Reflection
It was a day in Baghdad, one day after my 40th birthday (see Iraqi Homecoming: My 40th Birthday in Baghdad). I wondered where I would be if my parents had stayed in Iraq. Would I be this educated? Would I be alive? Would I have one of those rad haircuts?
Where would I be?Overall
Day 2 was appropriately called Welcome to the Jungle. Chaos aside, day 2 in Baghdad turned out quite nice.
The Time New York is part of the TPOL in NYC Trip Report.
Getting There: Getting from and to JFK is a pain. While Uber is absurdly priced at over $100 (see JFK AirTrain: Why Mess with Uber to Manhattan?), the cheaper options aren’t convenient. To get to the Time New York, I took Airtrain to Jamaica Station to the LIRR to Penn Station and then the 1 train to 50th Street.
Entrance The hotel lobby is on the second floor. To get there, take the elevator from the main entrance. If you have any questions, use the antique phone.
Double Petite Room
I booked the cheapest room I could find. Here, it was the double petite room. Unfortunately, I was upgraded to a king deluxe so I cannot write about it. I asked the front desk what I would have received. He said a very cozy room with a double bed.
King Deluxe
These Hyatt boutique hotels are wonderful. The small quirks make them unique (see Grayson NYC: Stay for the Revival Bedding). At The Time New York, I liked the glass closet but can’t say I cared for the TV in the mirror. Functionally, it does not work well when the curtains aren’t drawn.
Bathroom
The pressure was better than the Grayson, but I have to wonder why there is the option to shower in scalding hot water.
Wine Hour
From 5-6PM there is a wine and cheese hour. The concept was cool but the Malbec was warm.
Overall I would stay here again but I am also curious to see what other Hyatt boutique hotels are like.
Times SquareStill the worst place to be in NYC.But convenient for work.
Mama Pho NYC is part of the TPOL in NYC Trip Report.
I was reluctant to go to Mama Pho NYC because I had a bad experience at another pho joint called Mama Pho (see Mama Pho Warsaw? More Like Mama Huhu). But since it was the closest result after Googling ‘pho near me,’ I gave it a chance.
I thought the worst pho in the world was in Darwin, Australia (see Pho Darwin: Worst in the World). That is no longer the case. Here’s why:
Star Anise
According to runawayrice.com, star anise is a key pho spice. It adds a slightly bittersweet and licorice-like aroma and taste to pho broth. At Mama Pho, the chef must believe that star anise should be the dominant spice. It was all I could taste. While I love Sambuca, I don’t want an extra large bowl of it.Grease
What rhymes with anise? The answer is grease. And that’s what this bowl was, a big bucket of grease.Meat
The beef was dry and old. It looked like it had sat out for too long.Onions
What lazy person cut these onions? Huge pieces everywhere in all shapes and sizes.Summer Rolls
The summer rolls came out after the pho. I hoped that it would be a good dessert. It was not. Like the beef in the pho, the shrimp was stale.Large Bowl
I always order a large bowl and I usually finish it. Here, I was given a medium bowl by mistake. That was fine with me because I had no intention of drinking the broth. Unfortunately, the employee realized he gave me the wrong size and brought me a supplemental bowl. Like when I was in Darwin, I didn’t want to be rude but I also didn’t want to eat it. Unlike Darwin, I didn’t send it back. I forced myself to have a few spoons before giving up.OverallDon’t be fooled by the great photo.
This is the worst pho place in the world.
United LAS-SJU is part of the TPOL Won’t Visit All 50 States And That’s OK Trip Report.
I have no airline status and after flying AA ‘first’ (see AA SJU-MIA-LAS: Borracho in Business (First)), I will reaffirm that I’m fine with it. If you have status on a domestic carrier, chances are that you are flying too much for a thankless job. Chances are that you are a Hyatt Globalist staying too frequently at Hyatt Place. That is not the life.
When I returned from Vegas, I found myself back in peasant class, right where I belong. In fact, I was in the last row of the plane, on a full flight, no less.
I settled in and peacefully endured the three hour flight.
While I had no luck going to Vegas, I was pleasantly surprised that my flight to Puerto Rico was almost empty.
Overall
In the US, unless I’m flying lie-flat, I’m fine flying coach.
I wrote a post about how Delta carelessly broke my luggage (see Delta Damaged Bag Premium Economy Flight Review) and how they remedied it by paying me $300 (see $300 Delta Damaged Luggage Payment: Fair?). In that post, one reader, Dan, wrote, “exactly the type of person who’d use a fake rimowa… not even remotely surprised.” I was so upset with this comment, I quit blogging (see April Fools).
The allegedly fake luggage.
I am proud to say that I know nothing about suitcases. I have been traveling with the same Osprey carry-on since 2009 and have only changed the backpack, which is also Osprey.
20092024
Real travelers do not check bags (see What to Pack: “Take 1/2 the Clothes, Twice the Money” & the revised post, What to Pack: Take 1/4 of the Clothes, 1/2 the Money). The only reason I check bags is to go on a Residency Trip (see TPOL in Madrid: Why A Second Residency?).
So when Dan said what he said, I should have taken it as a compliment. Besides the Arab favorite Mary Samsonite, I know nothing about suitcases. Like my view of visas, I regarded clunky suitcases as necessary instruments used by people like my grandma to bring over spices back from Iraq. I always assumed that half the stuff in the suitcase would be broken and the other half would be confiscated ‘randomly’ by TSA (see ‘Randomly’ Screened at Tiniest Airport & Traveling While Arab? Pack Your Sense of Humor).
As it turns out, there is a world beyond Samsonite, a world for the distinguished traveler. Leaving Vegas, I happened to stumble upon that world in the Crystals Mall next to the Aria (see Sweet Life). Along with the typical brands of Hermes, Gucci, and Lanvin, the mall had a Rimowa store. I had to go in and see for myself what the fuss was all about.
For $5,750, you can buy a chess attaché. Unsophisticated, I had to Google ‘attaché’ to see what it meant in the context of luggage. It is short for attaché case which is “a small, flat, rectangular case used for carrying documents.” For $4,625, you can buy a poker attaché. For $2,125, if you are Lyman Zerga, you can buy ‘a briefcase for the new generation.‘ Finally, if you want to buy the Rimowa version of the suitcase I had, you can spend $1,430.
Why would anyone spend that much on a suitcase? My grandma loved her spices, but surely there are cheaper ways to ensure they are secure. I like my tennis racket which was damaged in the Delta flight, but it would be more efficient to buy a hard case for it than to spend this much on one piece of luggage. Even if I were richer than I am now, why would I put and trust such beautiful luggage in the hands of the guys with the ear muffs? Do you think they care that it is a Rimowa?
Thank you Dan for reminding me that I am Saul Bloom and not some hustled sucker. Perhaps when I rob the vault at the Bellagio, I can store my cash in a Rimowa on the way to the private terminal at Harry Reid. Until then, I am sticking with my bargain brand piece of plastic from TJ Maxx.
Aria Vegas is part of the TPOL Won’t Visit All 50 States And That’s OK Trip Report.
Why do I always receive suite upgrades when I am unable to make the most use out of them? I was in Vegas for two nights. The first night I went back to my cheap, go-to option, the Hyatt Place for 9k points (see The Hyatt Place Las Vegas Review: No Dice). Arriving at midnight, it didn’t make sense to pay or use points for an on-strip option. And, given that my conference was at the UNLV Law School, Hyatt Place was ideal for the location.
The second night, I used an expiring Marriott stay cert and booked a room at the Aria. I didn’t arrive at the Aria until 8PM on a Friday. I was impressed yet disappointed that I would only have a few hours in this tower suite.
Living RoomBedroom
The bedroom was something else. It reminded me of my view in the Ascott Thonglor, my home during my Bangkok Residency.
Bathroom
What’s better than a bathroom that reminds you of home? Bidet toilets coming to my house soon.Don’t Touch Anything
Everything has a charge. Drink and party at your own peril.
Lounge
In addition to the suite upgrade, there is a lounge for refreshments (not alcohol) and light snacks which is accessible with the tower suite room key.
Overall
What a beautiful room. What a nice hotel. Or so I’ve heard.
AA SJU-MIA-LAS is part of the TPOL Won’t Visit All 50 States And That’s OK Trip Report.
I finally took my first ‘first’ class flight from San Juan to Vegas (see The AA ‘First Class’ Flight That I Did Not Take). The cost was 25k AA miles. Like my first business class flight on AA, I wonder if it was worth it (see MDE-MIA: My First Business Class Flight on AA, Worth It*?)
Rather than write a separate review for each leg, I will commit blogger malpractice and put it all in here.
Flight Delayed
At the time of booking, the only itinerary available arrived in MIA at 6:50PM and departed at 7:51PM. Any delays would cost me my connection and force me to miss my conference the next day. If this was an international connection and not an interline ticket, I would not take that chance (Cutting It Close: Will I Make My JFK-HKG Connection?). But, since it was domestic and since I was not checking bags, I assumed everything would be fine. Assumption wrong. The day of departure, I received a notification that my flight from SJU would be delayed. I immediately called AA and asked if they had other options. They said yes, but I would have to be at the gate in an hour.
I hung up the phone, threw clothes in my carry-on, and hustled out the door. With no traffic, I can make it from Rio Grande to SJU in 22 minutes. While there was mild traffic, I was still making good time. Not one to text and drive, I nevertheless broke my rule to check the status of my flight. I was relieved that it was delayed by thirty minutes. I arrived at the airport in 26 minutes to find that my flight was further delayed. This gave me enough time to go to the Priority Pass Lounge (see Priority Pass Lounge San Juan: A Good Start).
Sipping on a Don Q and Coke Zero, I noted that my paranoia about missing connections should be extended to include business obligations (see Travel Lessons). The thrill of making it is what makes travel fun, but here it was unnecessary.
Leg 1: SJU-MIA
If I’m flying from San Juan to Miami, I’m fine flying coach. The flight time is less than three hours. I splurged for business/first because the flight from Miami to Vegas is over five hours. Even contortionist TPOL can’t sit in coach for that long anymore (see The Kama Sutra of Airplane Sleep: Surviving a 17 Hour Flight).
Here’s what you receive if you fly business from SJU-MIA:
No Wi-Fi: “There should be,” is what the flight attendant said when I asked about the unavailability of Wi-Fi. The Wi-Fi never worked and the flight attendant didn’t bother following up with an update.
Guess I’ll stare at the wall.Too Hot a TowelThis thing was scalding hot.Decent Food What is the butter for?Weird Movie ChoicesContagion? Really?Inconsistent Service: Flying domestic, it feels like a sin to hit the call button. Unlike SQ where the flight attendants can sense the needs of their passengers, domestic carriers make it seem like they’re doing us a favor when they come by. Sitting in the front row, I made eye contact with the flight attendant. She impatiently said, “I’ll be there in a minute.” What could she be doing in a cabin with 16 people none of whom is asking for anything? While waiting, a flight attendant from coach walked by. She turned off my call light and said they’d get to me when they are free. This is insanity, I thought to myself. Is the flight attendant prepping for her next flight, I wondered. And the attitude. It’s like she thinks I’m interrupting her obligation to fly the plane.
Ding!
Just when I thought it couldn’t get any worse, the flight attendant came out with more vino and entertained my request for my fifth drink, a Jack and Coke Zero. On top of that, she gave me an extra pilota for my enjoyment.
Perhaps I’m the impatient one. Or, perhaps, I’m looking to fault domestic carriers because I’ve bought into the stereotype that they’re inferior. Or, perhaps, I’m guilty of ageism. I see an older flight attendant and automatically think, “Here we go.” And, perhaps, she sees another antsy passenger in ‘first’ and has the same thought.
Overall
I would skip business on AA from SJU to MIA and sit in the back where being ignored is expected.
Intermission
I do not care for the Centurion Lounge in Miami (see Amex Centurion MIA in Cachet), but I’ll take it over the Admirals Club (see Admirals Club MIA: Under Construction) and maybe even over the Flagship Lounge when it comes to drinks (see AA Flagship Lounge MIA: Drink Your Stress Away). After multiple rounds on my last flight, the last thing I needed was more drinks. So, naturally, I had more, including this rusty nail.
Leg 2: MIA-LAS
My strategy was to drink my way through this long 5.5-hour flight. One more glass of wine should have been enough for me to pass out. What I failed to take into account was how uncomfortable AA’s business class seat is. Unlike Fiji Airways‘ amazing 737 (see Fiji Airways Nadi to Tonga: The Best Business 737 Experience), this 737 had no foot rest and the seat barely reclined. I attempted to sleep but could not. I was too far from the window to lay my head. The tray table was too close so I could not lay my head there either. Exhausted, I wanted to sleep on the floor. Uneasy, I thought maybe I could catch a few zzz’s by sleeping in the toilet. In the end, none of it worked. I was trapped. All I could feel was that rusty nail going through my skull. I learned yet another Travel Lesson: don’t drink and fly if you can’t lie flat.
First bad idea.Second bad idea.Overall
Businsess, ‘first,’ or whatever you want to call it, that was brutal.
Overall, Overall
This was a miserable experience. I need to get rich and fly private. Or stay sober and sit in economy.
TPOL is going to Vegas this weekend. The last time I was there was 2018. I was supposed to go after COVID in 2021, but I canceled (see No Vegas for TPOL). For this trip, I was supposed to leave from Medellin to Miami to LAS for 30k AA miles. Interestingly, the flight from MDE to MIA was in business, and the flight from MIA to LAS was in first.
What I wanted to see was the difference between ‘business’ in a 737 and ‘first’ in a 737. Neither, according to Seatguru, are lie flat. Unfortunately, I had to cancel this trip and will now be flying in business from San Juan to MIA to LAS, both in 737 ‘business,’ oddly enough.
An executive platinum friend says that there is no difference between first and business on AA 737s. He claims it’s just an excuse to charge more. Ever the optimist, I said there must be something better about flying ‘first.’ Perhaps they offer more cookies.
What do you have to say?