Canceled! TPOL’s Move to Albania

I hope you are enjoying the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL Trip Report. Looking at pictures from Mullixhiu, one of the best restaurants in Europe, and other great Tirana Restaurants, I was excited for my spring 2020 move to Tirana, Albania and my subsequent move to Minsk, Belarus to improve my Russian. Alas, there will be no Tirana for TPOL and no vodka/sauna lifestyle in Minsk (see Belarus’ president dismisses coronavirus risk, encourages citizens to drink vodka and visit saunas). For the time being and what I’m predicting to be a year from now, TPOL will be grounded. Instead of delaying the move to Albania yet again, I’ve decided to cancel it indefinitely.

Looking back at it, the idea of having readers decide where I would move next was not very wise. Writing about it was fun as was the emotional rollercoaster of the process. Here’s a recap of the ill-conceived plan, which began in March of 2017.

  1. Vote Where TPOL Moves Next! And I’ll Go ThereWe'll let fate decide.
  2. Where Is TPOL’s New Home Country? Voting Now OpenThat's more like it.
  3. Is Chiang Mai TPOL’s New Home? Vote NowTom yum every day would not be bad
  4. Barranquilla, Colombia Is The Worst Place to Live? Vote NowCapture
  5. It’s Not Kuta, But Should I Live in Bali? Vote TodayTPOL's new home?
  6. Surabaya, Indonesia: Home Sweet Home? Vote NowCapture
  7. Lisbon, Portugal: Send Me There, Please!Invalid request error occurred.
  8. Vote Where TPOL Moves in December (For Real This Time)a screenshot of a graph
  9. TPOL’s New Home Election: Porto? It’s No AlbaniaIsland life? Or city life? You decide.
  10. TPOL’s New Home Is Taipei? Vote 现在W Taipei.
  11. Should I Move to Ko Samui? Vote NowFull moon, every moon?
  12. TPOL, An Expat in Bangkok? Albania’s Back: Vote TodayKo Sahn Road every day would be a death sentence
  13. Gran Canaria for 4 Months? Vote NowInvalid request error occurred.
  14. Kaohsiung, Taiwan 6.13% of the Votes: Move There?Invalid request error occurred.
  15. TPOL’s Next Home: The Other Cities in Portugal?Invalid request error occurred.
  16. Tirana, Taipei, Lisbon, Or Bangkok: The Runoff Vote!a screenshot of a computer
  17. Tirana, Albania: Debauchery & Promiscuity! Vote NowInvalid request error occurred.
  18. Forbe’s Quit Your Job And Live Abroad List: Where’s Albania?Invalid request error occurred.
  19. TPOL Is Moving to Albania! (Eventually)Invalid request error occurred.
  20. Despacito! TPOL Is Moving to Puerto Rico! Effective InmediatamenteInvalid request error occurred.
  21. Vote Where TPOL Moves AFTER Albania…And I’ll Go!a screenshot of a computer
  22. Salt Block District Tirana, Albania: Where TPOL Will Live*Invalid request error occurred.

After all those polls, all those questions of elections in meddling, the whole thing was a witch-hunt hoax. Thanks to covid, I’m quarantined in Puerto Rico. While it’s not the worst thing to be stuck on the beach, I do miss the chaos of impromptu travel. I will also miss the Tirana and Minsk experience. But, I have learned two valuable lessons from this voting experiment: First, don’t leave your future to strangers. As obvious as it sounds, the general public does not have your best interest in mind. Second, don’t plan ahead. Life is too unpredictable and planning, even if it involves a random move to a random country, is boring. Instead, I will just go somewhere and write you when I get there (see Travel Planning: Check Prices Or Just Go?).

a palm tree on a beach
Socially distant and it feels so good.

Tirana, Albania: Fantastic Food & Drink Guide

Best Restaurants Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.


I travel to eat and drink. And when I do, I do so in large quantities. For upscale dining, variety of food and value, Tirana is near the top of my list (Cape Town being the decided front runner). With only two nights in town, I couldn’t eat everywhere but I certainly tried. Here are the highlights:

1. Best Experience: Mullixhiu Restaurant Tirana

Here’s an excerpt from that post: This could be one of those posts peppered with overused travel expressions like ‘off the beaten path’, ‘the local experience’, ‘authentic’, and my least favorite, ‘wanderlust’ (see Are You a Naive Traveler?). This experience won’t make me use softer words in future posts, but it is the type of experience that reminds me why I travel and why winging it is still the way to do it (see How to Book Trinidad’s Carnival Last Second for Free*). 

And here are some photos to back up my claim:

a bowl of food with food on it a plate of food on a table

TPOL’s TIP: The address is: Shëtitorja Lasgush Poradeci Hyrja e Parkut tek Diga e Liqenit Artificial Tirana, 1019

2. Best Binge: Salt: My first night in Tirana I went to Salt where, according to the menu, World Peace Begins in the kitchen. I didn’t know what to order so I ordered everything.
a sign on a buildinga room with a table and chairs and a tree with bottles on the walla wall with shelves of liquor and a treea bar with shelves of liquor and a person behind ita ladder and shelves with bottles and rocksa salt and pepper shakers on a table a menu of a restaurant a glass of beer and a basket of bread a plate of oysters and lemons on a table a oysters on a plate a glass of pink liquid next to a shell a plate of sushi on a table a close up of food a steak and french fries on a black surface a plate of french fries a dirty plate with food crumbs and a fork

a paper with numbers and a price

How much does everything cost? 5080 lek which is $44. The Stella, at $3.45, was the only pricey item.

TPOL’s TIP: Salt is located on Rruga Pjetër Bogdani, Tiranë 1001, Albania, a street with many restaurants and bars.

a plate of food with a shell and shrimp
Best restaurants Tirana

3. Best Bill: On day two, I went to il Gusto for lunch. Perfect, incomparable, spoiled, fit for a king – all appropriate words to describe this experience. I have some practice picking out fish (see Burgers & Seafood: Sanya Dining Guide), but I have never been to a restaurant where the fish was de-boned in front of me. Much like someone putting cream cheese on my bagel, this was an indulgence that I rather enjoyed.
a sign with a red circle on it a fish on ice in a display case a group of fish on ice a plate of food on a table a man opening a bottle of wine a wine bottle and wine glass on a table a bowl of food on a table a plate of food on ice a person pouring a wine into a glass a plate of food on a tablea plate of food with rice and vegetables a man in a black apron cutting food a plate of food and wine on a table a fish head on a plate

I’ve also had my fair share of fine cigars (see Guns & Butter: New Orleans Travel Guide (Binge Edition)) and I routinely have a Gran Marnier and espresso, but never in such a fancy presentation.
a cigar and lighter on a table a person pouring liquid into a glass a cup of coffee and a cigar on a tablea receipt on a leather walletAll of this cost $80.

TPOL’s TIP: il Gusto is located at Rruga Kajo Karafili, Tirana 1001, Albania and is perfect for lunch.

4. Best Gelato: There are gelato places all over Tirana. I picked a random one and can attest that it is much better than the rip-off gelato of the world’s biggest tourist trap, also known as the Amalfi Coast.

a large ice cream cone statue a trays of ice cream

5. Best Drinks: Kino: It may be misleading to say that Kino has the best drinks since I didn’t go anywhere else. However, I’ll go with it because the drinks were top-notch, and I don’t want to mess up the theme.
a book on a table a group of people sitting at tables outside a building a glass of liquid and a book on a table a glass of red liquid with a celery plant on top

TPOL’s TIP: Like Salt, Kino is also located on Pjeter Bogdani.

6. Best Atmosphere: Walk around the Salt District. There’s a bar, restaurant, cafe, or all of the above to suit your taste.

a group of people sitting outside a restaurant

Overall

When the voters picked Tirana for where I would move next, I doubt many of them had any idea where it was or how great a city it is. Even if you aren’t looking to call Tirana your new home, I highly suggest staying there for a few days and having a few meals.


Best Restaurants Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.

Puerto Rico’s Coronavirus Crackdown: Justified Or Unconstitutional?

There are certain countries where speaking out against the rulers is punishable by jail, fine, or even death. As a world traveler, I don’t comment on these governments. I’m not from that country and I’m not trying to end up, like I once wrote for TPG, Locked Up Abroad. Despite the occasional ignoramus who confuses Puerto Rico with Costa Rica, most know that this commonwealth is part of the United States. Accordingly, Puerto Rican citizens are protected by the U.S. Constitution.

Unlike the federal government, the Puerto Rican government swiftly took proactive steps to limit the spread of coronavirus. We were one of the first in the country to implement a stay-at-home order and one of the first to have a curfew. Now, the balancing act between protecting public health and infringing on individual liberties is becoming increasingly blurry (see Social Distance Yourself from Misinformation). The stay-at-home order is now in effect for all 24 hours of the day. We are only allowed to leave the house every other day based on our license plate number for essential activities like going to the pharmacy or grocery store. This begs the question, how do people who rely on public transportation adhere to this law?

As a paranoid recluse, I have only left the gated community of Rio Mar once in the last six weeks so that measure does not affect me (see What’s a Travel Blog Without Travel?). What is alarming is that residents are being threatened with arrest and fines if they leave their house to exercise even if they are socially distancing themselves. Por ejemplo, I was on Rio Mar’s isolated beach last Sunday. The closest person besides a family with their dogs walking was a helicopter flying overhead. Out of nowhere, a police officer came, flashing his handcuffs, and threatening to arrest me if I didn’t go home immediately. To be clear, this wasn’t an “If TPOL gets Corona, I get Corona situation” with young college co-eds going wild. The Wyndham Resort is closed through April. There are no guests. The entire compound is deserted. The only threat of Covid-19 was from the police officer who was standing too close to me. I went home and checked the stay at home order. Obviously, I need to take more Spanish lessons (see TPOL The Polyglot: How To Learn Multiple Languages) because Google translated that the beaches are indeed off limits.

Fair enough, but that does not explain what happened next. I received a notification from the community manager that leaving the house even for exercise might be illegal. I messaged fellow residents who scoffed at the idea that taking a walk would incur the wrath of the police. I went for a run that night. However, like the time I snuck into Pleasure Island in Disney with a fake ID and being interrogated and subsequently released by Orange County Police, I could not enjoy myself. Too nervous at the thought of going to a Puerto Rican jail, I went home. The next morning I heard that one of my neighbors was stopped by the police while riding his bicycle within the compound. Like my beach experience, he was also threatened with arrest.

I can understand shutting down the beach but there is no state in the country where exercise, so long as social distancing is followed, has been outlawed. Then I read this article from the Miami Herald titled, “Critics blast Puerto Rico ‘dictatorial decree’ as coronavirus claims youngest victim,” and now I’m actually concerned about what happens next. Read the following:

On Monday, Gov. Wanda Vázquez assumed even more sweeping powers, signing an amendment to the Public Security law that makes breaking the curfew — or future curfews — punishable with six months in jail and/or a $5,000 fine. In addition, it makes it illegal for media outlets or social media accounts “to transmit or allow the transmission” of “false information with the intention of creating confusion, panic, or public hysteria, with regards to any proclamation or executive order declaring an emergency, disaster or curfew.” If the false information causes more than $10,000 in damage to public-sector finances or leads to injury or damage of physical property, it will be considered a fourth-degree criminal offense, the governor’s office said.

Luís Davila-Colón, a prominent radio host and author, accused the governor of drifting into authoritarianism. He said, “You cannot govern through dictatorial decrees, scolding, secrets, muzzling, blockades or threatening to imprison your subjects,” he wrote on Twitter.

Consider TPOL muzzled.

a palm tree on a beach
No comment. I said no comment! That applies to any of you leaving a comment.

Keep Vs. Cancel: Citi Prestige

I am going to look at this post one day and ask how I ever paid $495 for a credit card. It made sense at the time when I applied last year (see Citi Prestige: No Amex Platinum? No Problem). This is the second time I’ve had the card and the second time I am canceling (see Keep vs. Cancel: Citi Prestige). Back then I was too frugal to pay $350 for the annual fee, and back then the card came with the real 4th Night Free benefit, Admirals Club access, and free golf. Now all that’s left that I use is the $250 travel credit and access to the Priority Pass network. I’m not going anywhere thanks to this lockdown (see Canceled! TPOL’s Move to Albania) making these benefits useless.

The problem I will have in 2021, when I predict I will be able to travel again, is redeeming my points. Since I downgraded to the Citi Plus card, I can no longer transfer my points to airline partners. By then I’ll either upgrade, or maybe Citi will abolish the stupid restrictions on applying for a bonus again. It will be interesting to see if card issuers continue to increase the annual fee on these cards while cutting their benefits. Right now, it seems crazy to spend $495 on anything that is not essential. I expect the trend of canceling cards to continue.

Retention Offer?: The retention chat took one day to receive a response. And the retention offer was $0.00.

a screenshot of a card
I’ll have a credit balance when this $495 is refunded.

TPOL’s TIP: Link your Citi+ ThankYou account to your Citi Prestige ThankYou account. Otherwise, your points will expire in 60 days. Stupid right?

Wyndham Tortola BVI Resort: What a (Isolated) Beach

Wyndham Tortola BVI Hotel Review is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.


Getting There: It isn’t worth renting a car when you are in BVI for work. There is no Uber but the prices for taxis from the airport are a flat rate.


I arrived in BVI a day late (see My Duck Up: You Need a Passport for British Virgin Islands) and am glad I did so. Instead of spending another day in a conference room (Should You Include Work Trips in Your Country Count?), I spent it asleep in a daybed overlooking the beach.a foot on a beach

The Beach 

This is an isolated hotel. There is nothing nearby. I would not recommend staying here if you’re here for work or if you want something to do when the sun goes down. When the sun is up, I would recommend skipping your work conference and doing nothing. The beach is Seychelles-esque.a beach with a sign and bushes a beach with plants and waves a sandy beach with waves crashing on the shore a beach with waves and hills in the background waves crashing on a beach a sandy beach with water and hills in the background a beach with waves and a hill in the background

The Food

The hotel’s isolation is bad because there are no restaurants or bars nearby. I had lunch at the hotel which was an overpriced roti that does not compare to the ones in Trinidad (see Where to Eat And Drink in Trinidad) and the Bushwacker, invented in BVI, was not the best. The view, on the other hand, is second to none. a plate of food with sauces and a bowl of salad a burrito on a plate a glass with a straw and a drinka beach with chairs and a beach umbrella

The Hotel Itself

The hotel was destroyed by Hurricane Irma and Maria. When I was there, it was under construction. I imagine it will be much nicer once the green comes back.a dirt field with houses and trees in the backgrounda path leading to a building

The Pool

The pool was great but I only had time to take photos. No time for a nice soak.

a pool with a wooden frame and a building in the background a pool with a wooden frame a swimming pool with a building and trees in the background a pool with a building in the background a pool with lounge chairs and a building in the background a pool with chairs and umbrellas a wooden deck with umbrellas and a pool in the background a pool with a deck and chairs in front of buildings a pool with a building in the background

The Room

This is my first review of a Wyndham property. I was impressed with the room. The bed was comfortable, the Nespresso was fully stocked, and there was a mini-fridge should you be smart enough to buy beer outside the hotel. Free bottled water was provided.a bed with white sheets and pillows a bed with a canopy a bed with a light on it a room with a bed and a television on the wall a tray with tea cups and a water bottle on a table

The Bathroom

Quality soap, nice flowers.
a bathroom with a mirror and sinka towel and bottles of shampoo on a shelfa basket with a towel and a small bottle of soaptwo white towels with flowers on thema shower head in a bathroom

The Bungalows

I have no status with Wyndham so I had a garden view room, but even bungalows that face the ocean have no view due to the vegetation.a palm tree in front of a house

Overall 

I stayed here because it was the most affordable option in Tortola. The hotel was fine but next time I’m in BVI, I plan on sleeping on my yacht.


Wyndham Tortola BVI Hotel Review is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.

Simply The Best: March 2020

TPOL turned 6 in March. Unfortunately, that’s not how I will remember March. I will remember it by the US government failing the American people. I will also try to remember it with happy memories from past trips.

  1. Social Distance Yourself from Misinformation

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    The President of the United States is a liar. Do not believe anything he says.
  2. From Your Grade School Principal: Regarding COVID-19

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    We aren’t in this together. And you’re not here for me. It’s more like you have your foot on my neck, and you won’t leave me alone unless I am dead.
  3. How to Book a Trip to Bhutan

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    Looking to travel to Bhutan? You’ll need to apply for a visa and more importantly, travel with a guide. The process is a bit sketchy.
  4. Finding Happiness: Bhutan Day 1

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    Relieved that my tour company was not a scam, I began my journey to find happiness.
  5. Grand Anse Beach Grenada: Detox After Carnival

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    If you’re in Grenada, the beach to visit is Grand Anse.
  6. Surrendering Vacation: When to Cut a Trip Short

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    Like my beautiful face, my beauty of an itinerary (which thus far had cost me next to nothing) and my swagger as a savvy traveler now have black marks that will take some time to heal.
  7. What’s a Travel Blog Without Travel?

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    I book. I cancel. I rebook. I cancel.

Should You Include Work Trips in Your Country Count?

Work Trips is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.


TPOL makes his millions from blogging and moonlighting as a lawyer because he loves the law. That is a lie. Instead of traveling for leisure, my off shore legal practice had me going to BVI for a few nights for work. I missed the first day because I overlooked the need for a passport (see My Duck Up: You Need a Passport for British Virgin Islands). Then I experienced the pleasure of flying on interCaribbean Airways. Upon arrival, I checked into an isolated hotel that was under construction (see Wyndham Tortola). Things were going great.

Over the coming days, I went to my conference which lasted from morning until the early evening. En route to the conference, I would see the beauty of BVI. From the conference room, I could see the harbor. After the conference concluded, there was a networking cocktail hour followed by a drive back to the hotel. Three days later I went back to Puerto Rico.

Apart from walking on the beach at my hotel the first day, I saw nothing of Tortola or BVI’s other 53 islands. Putting aside whether BVI is a country (see Is Hawaii a Country?), this begs the question, should I include BVI on my Country Count List? I don’t include countries where I don’t leave the airport even though technically the rules say it is permissible. My view is that I have to do something in a place to say that I have been there. Sure I was physically in BVI for 3 nights but what did I experience? I can’t write a Guns & Butter Travel Guide let alone recommend a restaurant.

I could have stayed in BVI after the conference and explored but after being there for days with nonstop presentations, that was the last thing I wanted to do. Hopefully, I will return to BVI for Christmas in July and experience the fun of the island. While I will include it on my list, two conclusions can be drawn from this trip: 1) Traveling for work is not travel. 2) Work is stupid.

a cruise ship in the water
Trapped in a conference room feels like summer school.

interCarribean San Juan to BVI: Please, No Pictures!

interCarribbean San Juan BVI Flight Review is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.


After missing my flight to BVI thanks to not bringing my passport, I arrived the next day with the requisite paperwork (see My Duck Up: You Need a Passport for British Virgin Islands). There was still drama this time as the gate agent said I did not come the required two hours before and he could have prevented me from going. I hustled to the gate which is in an even more run-down part of San Juan airport. Of course, upon arriving, I learned that the flight was delayed.

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a close up of a passport

a sign in a building
On-time according to whom?

The dramatics continued on the way to the plane. We were told to line up single file and were sternly told not to take photos. Before boarding the plane, border patrol asked for everyone’s passport and inquired as to how much cash we were carrying.

a truck parked on a tarmac

TPOL’s TIP to Customs & Border Patrol: You don’t have to launder money in BVI when there is no federal or state income taxes in PR for those who qualify (see Despacito! TPOL Is Moving to Puerto Rico! Effective Inmediatamente).

When I boarded the plane, I sat in the back right next to the exit. I appointed myself as the flight attendant and the one responsible should there be an emergency.

a group of people sitting in a bus

a fire extinguisher and a bag of blue and white bottles

The 45 minute flight dragged on. It was hot and stuffy in the plane and far from the romantic Maldives seaplane I experienced years ago (see The Maldives Seaplane: Luxury for the Working Class). This was more like a flight that should be in my list of all time terrible aviation experiences (see TPOL’s Worst Flight Experiences). Though I could not take pictures from the outside of the plane, I captured many great ones upon departing and as we made our approach.

an airplane flying over a body of water

an airplane wing over the ocean

an airplane wing over a body of water with land and buildings

On the ground, a member of the interCaribbean staff scolded many of us for taking pictures. I was not given an explanation as to why pictures are not allowed.

a tractor on a runway

a plane on the runway

a man standing next to a plane
Couldn’t get the nose in this sneak shot.

As you would expect, the same no pictures warning was given on my flight home. I snuck one shot before boarding.

airplanes on a runway
No pictures!

The return flight was much more comfortable as the plane resembled something from the 20th century, not the 19th.

a plane with seats and windows
Normal seats

Overall

I came. I was turned away. I returned. I took photos. I conquered.


interCarribbean San Juan BVI Flight Review is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.

My Duck Up: You Need a Passport for British Virgin Islands

You Need a Passport for British Virgin Islands is part of the Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report.


I have done some dumb things in my day which I am always happy to share. I have a whole section dedicated to Visa mishaps. This one, I do believe, is the dumbest but I will let you decide.

As part of Rum Rum Caribbean Castaway Trip Report, I went to the British Virgin Islands. I booked my flight on interCarribean Air and looked forward to the 40-minute flight.

I arrived at the airport and presented my ID. The ticket agent asked to see my passport. “Passport?” I asked. It did not occur to me to bring my passport. Whether it’s because I am used to flying to the island of Puerto Rico without a passport, whether it’s because the flight is so short, or it’s because BVI uses American dollars, it did not occur to me that a passport was required.

To be clear, I didn’t forget to bring my passport. In fact, I went through my packing checklist and skipped right over the passport line item. Needless to say, I was denied boarding and had to book my flight for later in the afternoon or the next day.

When I returned to the airport, I was asked for my passport at check-in, prior to boarding, and by border patrol on the tarmac. I was also asked if I was carrying more than 10k in cash. Clearly, investigating money laundering and passport control is not a trivial matter.

It is obvious that I need a passport to go to a foreign country, and it is not in dispute that BVI is not part of the United States. I was too absent-minded to recognize this. I’ve visited over 110 countries, yet I still make stupid mistakes.

Chinese visa issues notwithstanding (see China 72-hour Visa-Free Transit Disaster (again)), I think this may be the dumbest yet.

a man standing behind a counter
For TPOL, it’s 37 years of doing questionable things.

Mullixhiu Restaurant Tirana: This Is Why I Travel

Best Restaurant Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.


This could be one of those posts peppered with overused travel expressions like ‘off the beaten path’, ‘the local experience’, ‘authentic’, and my least favorite, ‘wanderlust’ (see Are You a Naive Traveler?). This experience won’t make me use softer words in future posts, but it is the type of experience that reminds me why I travel and why winging it is still the way to do it (see How to Book Trinidad’s Carnival Last Second for Free*).

When I arrived in Tirana, I had a list of restaurant recommendations from my Albanian friend (see Tirana, The Best City for Food). At the top of the list was Mullixhiu. I hopped in a taxi and told the driver to take me there. He said that the restaurant is usually busy, and I should call to make a reservation. The nice driver called and, as he expected, they were full. As it was my last night in Tirana, I told him to go anyway and I would figure it out.

Arrival

As I was coming in, I saw people being turned away for not having a reservation. This made me want to go in even more. I confidently approached the hostess and said I had a reservation for one. Inexplicably she could not find my name. Instead of turning me away, she gave me a glass of wine and told me to wait.

a glass of wine on a table

While waiting, I took a few photos.

corn cobs stacked in a glass case

Mullixhiu makes its own pasta and that process is on full display. I failed to take a photo of that traditional process.

a group of people sitting at tables in a room with wood ceiling
Nobody seemed to be in a particular hurry to leave.

Seating

Just as I was about to give up hope, I was finally seated.

a menu on a table

This evening, there was a set menu for dinner. It was now clear why reservations are necessary and why people were in no hurry to go.

Wine 

A bottle of vino is not included in the set menu, but since I was anticipating great food, I ordered one.

a bottle of wine next to a glass of wine

The Food

Much like my inability to describe fine wine (see We’re Off to Wine Country Worldwide), I cannot articulate how delicious food is (see Where to Eat: Cusco Edition). That’s a shame because calling the salad, a salad “a salad” is like calling Michaelangelos’ Pietà a carved piece of marble. (I also can’t speak profusely about art.) Hopefully, the pictures tell the story.

a plate of food on a table a board with cheese and jams on it a bowl of food on a table

Saffron and Grapes 

I vividly recall the greatest combination in this pasta dish: saffron and grapes. It is something that I continue to crave.
a bowl of food with food on it

a plate of food

The Main Dish

Look and enjoy. This is why a full bottle of wine was necessary.
a plate of meat with sauce on it a plate of food on a tableAfter Dinner Drink & Dessert 

I don’t know what the drink was exactly, but it was a nice way to round out the meal.
a person pouring liquid into a glass a piece of cake on a plate

Why This Experience Was Special

Yes the ambiance was nice and yes the food was great. But, that’s not what made this experience memorable. After I had the aperitif, I learned that the young gentlemen was not a waiter. He was the owner, Bledar. He invited me to share a bottle of wine while he closed the restaurant. We discussed politics, food, and travel. I learned about Albania, its history, and Bledar’s journey to open a restaurant that serves traditional Albanian cuisine. It was an “authentic” Bourdain experience that I will not forget.

two men taking a selfie

a bag of food and a jar of jam
I was given jams, bread, and saffron. #wanderlust

Overall

Mullixhiu was voted one of the ten best restaurants in Europe (see the article featuring a bio of the chef in the German publication Der Spiegel). Make sure you have a reservation before you go. You may not be as lucky as I was.


Best Restaurant Tirana is part of the #NoCollusion, No Albania for TPOL where I break my 100 country count mark. See the World Map for where I’ve been.